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not sure what to do???? need YOUR advice


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Posted

it think its will cost me to much to tkae the body off motor and trany, im taking it tom to a blaster to blast the under side of the frame. with the body on, i think it will come out great, i dont want to disturb the body its been on there for a long time, and im just looking for a whole mess of problems breaking bolts, and things like that. i just want to clean up the bottom, and blast the dirt away. beside that i dont see a reason to pull the car apart, i cant do it myself, and would cost me prolly 5 to 10k to do it, if i could even find a shop who would do it?

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Posted

Powder coating where there is atmosheric salt solutio either from road salt or marin salt is a waste of money and time on an automotive application. There is no mechanical or chemical bond between the material and the finish. Fine when the finish is unbroken or unchipped but as soon as the surface is broken, the moisture gets under it and will lift off the finish as the metal unde it corrodes.

For a fine example look at the frame of a 6 to 8 year old Ford Explorer. One of Fords better ideas, but not for the northeast. Works just a poorly on snowblowers that are exposed to road salt. Powder coat may make a nice looking finish but for durability out in the weather it pretty much sucks.

Posted

Actually, a soft surface coating under the car is much better than any hard surface. To prove that point run this little test yourself. Take something that is powder coated and put it in a sand blaster. Then take something coated with a soft or rubberized coating. The powder coating will come off long before the rubberized coating does. That's because the sand will bounce off the rubberized coating, so it last longer. On the hard surface it starts wearing right away.

Posted

well here in ny its thw only way to go as paintdoesnt last, anything aabked on at 400 degrees, has got to be better then air dryed paint in my eyes only problem is a can of spray paint is 6 us dollars , powder coating is ussually 25 to 30 for a little items. my whole suspension got powder coated, coast me roughly 1500.

Posted
well here in ny its thw only way to go as paintdoesnt last, anything aabked on at 400 degrees, has got to be better then air dryed paint in my eyes only problem is a can of spray paint is 6 us dollars , powder coating is ussually 25 to 30 for a little items. my whole suspension got powder coated, coast me roughly 1500.

A fellow New Yorker, and a Wisconsin snow bunny just told you why this is not the way to go. Why do you ask questions and get good answers but never follow the good advice? I would consider myself a fool if I did the same.

WHOOPS, I just almost called myself a fool again.

Keep spending the big bucks where you dont need to as this keeps the economy rolling.

Posted

Well down there where he resides, they get pretty wimpy winters, not enough snow to talk about, so maybe they don't use the salt on the roads like they do up here. So he may be OK for a year or two more, maybe if he doesn't drive his driver much that will extend it some, but being near the ocean or the sound it will get him. Cars arent swing sets or patio furniture. Perhaps that's why they haven't powder coated the Staten Island ferries yet..................

Several maufacturers thought that by powder coating under body tubing, they would solve their under car corrosion problems. Some even tried immersing heated tubing tock in molten plastic to give them a forever finish. Think again.

finishers love powder coating because just about any body can apply it. It doen't need a skilled technician to spray it on, and they can charge more and do more volume (number of jobs) So they win three times. And the stuff comes out all shiny and smooth and stuff and customers eat it up. So if I had a shop that did both, what do you think I would be recommending. The 9 dollar an hour guy spraying stuff and rolling it in the oven or the 25 dollar an hour guy priming sanding spraying and re spraying and sanding and buffing?

Posted
A fellow New Yorker, and a Wisconsin snow bunny just told you why this is not the way to go. Why do you ask questions and get good answers but never follow the good advice? I would consider myself a fool if I did the same.

WHOOPS, I just almost called myself a fool again.

Keep spending the big bucks where you dont need to as this keeps the economy rolling.

powder caoting is better then paint hads down, im not going to get into a pissing match, but its a fact, there is a reason why every auto restorer near me, says powder coat is the only way to go, if you want it to last. so whos the fool? thisis not my only car, on 3 of my other cars, all my suspension is powder coated, and its been that way for about 11 years now, not a scracth, chip. so i have to disagree with all due respect.

Posted (edited)
well here in ny its thw only way to go as paintdoesnt last, anything aabked on at 400 degrees, has got to be better then air dryed paint in my eyes only problem is a can of spray paint is 6 us dollars , powder coating is ussually 25 to 30 for a little items. my whole suspension got powder coated, coast me roughly 1500.

Michael,

I don't know if you've ever gone to my web site. But........we make epoxy coatings that are applied thicker than powder coating. One coat gives a thickness of 8 mils, and it's just as abrasion and chemical resistant as powder coating, or more. We make it for industry, not cars. But........if someone throws sharp rocks, or sand at it at 60 MPH all the time, you will wear and chip the finish off in no time.

We had a customer who made dry paint pigment back in the 90's until the place burnt down. To get the pigment aggregate (powdered silica) to the coloring room, they ran it through large steel pipes under pressure. This caused the powder to act like sand blasting at the elbows of the piping. Then the elbows would wear out in about a month or two. It also wore the fan blades inside the pipes that helped push the silica through pipes. When we went in he was using a regular epoxy to to repair those area's to keep production moving. We then sold him epoxy to repair the holes and blades, then had him apply a rubberized coating over the repaired area's. That made those area's last 6 to 9 months after that, before he had to repair them again. So.........again, a soft material is better under the car than a hard material.

Powder coatings, epoxy coatings and urethane coatings are all good materials. But.........they won't cure all problems. They each have their place.

For what it's worth. I've only been in this business since April 1968. But.....if you think you know more than my experience, powder coat away.

Edited by Norm's Coupe
Posted (edited)
bassically my suspension is all apart, and it has been powder coated.

the bottom of the car is filthy, from 65 years of use, and ny weather.

is it worth it to take the whole body off, car totally stripped, and have the frame blasted, and coated, or should i just leave it together, clean it up the best i can then under coat and paint the floor?

is taking the body off the car a nightmare or is it worth doing it, someone said to me its hard and very time consuming, and the bolts will all break, and not even worth i at all.

wahts your opinion. im not re selling the car, im going to keep it, prolly till i have gray hair, and a long beard.

Michael, This is a car that needs a frame off resto job.

Bob

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted
:eek::eek::eek:

seems that is a hair trend amongst some members here..... hey?! it's not contagious over the internet is it??!! Bad enough y'all influence me to the point where I'm considering my 2nd Mopar....now I gotta expect to follically conform too? Dang, my wife isn't gonna like that...:D

it's not that bad...

post-7-13585352313874_thumb.jpg

Posted

I have to agree with the last post. If you sandblast the underside, sand will get everywhere. I did not do a frame off on mine but I did lift the body off the frame so I could replace the body mounts. I wire brushed the frame and used lacquer thinner on it and then painted it with Zero Rust.

Bodymountreplacement001.jpg

Bodymountreplacement005.jpg

Bodymountreplacement002.jpg

Posted

If it were me, I wouldn't. I think it's unecessary unless you have rot between the top of the frame and the floor. Or if you have rot that can only be properly dealt with by taking the body off. Otherwise, save yourself a tone of money and don't.

Posted

Ed is correct. Engine numbers were stamped there. Since the cars were registered back then using engine numbers for the title, those numbers were supposed to match. Of course, 60 years later, someone may have changed engines over those years, so they may no longer match.

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