austinsailor Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 I'm now at napa and they have no listing. Does anyone have a current part number? This is a Cleveland u- joint with the plates across the ends. Thanks for any help Quote
desoto1939 Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 You state Cleveland u joint. Or do you need the Detroit u joint with the pin and trunion and housing. I have several of these complete Detroit units might fit your truck. If you need this let me know rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
desoto1939 Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Look on ebay item 300349373879 it shows the part number as 575946 and this is the cros style Hope this helps rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
austinsailor Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Posted October 16, 2009 That might be the right one, but it won't help at the parts store. Anyone bought a new one at a parts house lately? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Did a quick forum search, because I know this comes up often. Here is what I found. Got mome frp, NAPA - works just fine. part number UJ 1-5900 - rear U-joint.Hope this helps. Quote
Jim Gaspard Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 This forum is so much better and faster than Yellow Pages, and really the e-version of 'Let your fingers do the walking". Quote
austinsailor Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Posted October 16, 2009 Napa looked it up, 1-5900 shows to be a neapco Inc u- joint, cup dia 1.063. Mine measures about 1.145. Am I missing something. Quote
streamer Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Look in the forum posts from a few weeks ago. I posted a source for the original type U-joint. I just bought two of them and they fit perfect. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Sorry, can't help you then. In my parts manual it shows P/N 1238415 for Series 1 and early 2 B & C trucks. I tried that number in Napaonline's parts interchange and came up blank. The later Series 2's, 3's, and 4.s B & C trucks call for P/N 1321115 which crosses to a Napa number NPJ P369. Bringing up that parts shows bearing diameter 1.06" and width at 3.22". Apparently this isn't what you need. I know this comes up often and it seems that the B1 u-joints are pretty hard to find and cost a premium when found. Merle Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 What's the width/length of the u-joint in question? I did a little searching on Napaonline and found a P/N PUJ351C with 1.375" diameter bearings and 4.19" width. I don't know if you'll find the exact one, but you may be able to get close enough to make it work. Merle Quote
oldmopar Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Vintage power wagons shows 2 different sizes maybe give them a call http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/09propellerchaft.pdf Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Found this on Spicer's web site. Try to download it and see if something is close. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/K350-1-DSSP.pdf Merle Quote
austinsailor Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Posted October 16, 2009 Well, my u-joint was good, but I pretty well messed it up getting things apart to put a new seal in the pinion. As many of these trucks as are still around, I would have never guessed you couldn't just go to the local auto parts store and get one. I will most certainly spend more time trying to figure out how to get it apart next time. I do have the parts truck sitting there, and it is all good. So, I'll just spend more time figuring out how to get it apart and use one - or maybe the whole drive shaft - from it. I know now to watch for them. It took me a year to find the u-joints for my WKA-67, which is a rare truck, so surely I'll locate a couple spares as time goes on. Quote
austinsailor Posted October 17, 2009 Author Report Posted October 17, 2009 This whole exercise was to replace the pinion seal. Getting the u-joint out required a lot of heat and hammering. That was nothing compared to getting the yoke off. I had to make a puller, then heat the base of the yoke glowing red, then still it was all I could do to slowly pull it off. Getting the old seal out was also as bad. Heck, I think I should have just taken my chances and added oil as needed! Oh, I heard back from the guy with the u-joint on Ebay, item #300349373879. It's only the cross - just what you see in the picture. No end caps, no rollers, and $45? Good news, though, I have all the new hoses on, antifreeze in, and let it run for a spell. Sounds very good. No leaks from the motor, radiator or heater, it just purrs. Still smokes a bit, but it hadn't been started in 30 or so years. Ran out of gas after about 20 minutes, got more and will run it for an hour or two tomorrow. When I started my big WKA after 35 years, it smoked for a bit, maybe an hour. Then it slowly got clean, and doesn't smoke at all now. I think the new high detergent oil slowly gets a lot of gunk out and as it cleans it out, the smoking gets to be less. At least that is my theory, and I'm hoping for the same results again. If not, I'll just swap motors from the parts truck, since it doesn't smoke now. Quote
oldmopar Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 I have a pinion seal leaking in a newer truck 59 w200 and have been deciding weather to change it or keep checking the fluid after you story I think I will keep checking the fluid for a while. Quote
austinsailor Posted October 17, 2009 Author Report Posted October 17, 2009 Yours will have a different type of u-joint which won't be hard to get apart. And, I've never had a yoke so hard to remove. My 40 dodge car was a simple project. You can probably get your parts off the shelf as well. They are probably still in the parts house books. Quote
oldmopar Posted October 17, 2009 Report Posted October 17, 2009 Yes parts for the 59 are easier to get, many of the parts I can just put in the original mopar part # on the napa site and get a cross reference to their part #. Quote
streamer Posted October 18, 2009 Report Posted October 18, 2009 After the trouble I had with driveline vibration and it's being fixed, I am glad to report that Gilbert Driveline in Manchester NH can provide you with the correct original equipment replacement universal joint for the '48 and '49 1/2 ton pickup. You can contact them by calling 603-623-3061 and ask for Bruce. Bruce has been in the business for 40 years and really knows his stuff. Quote
austinsailor Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 I think this is the type of U -joint Gene is talking about or this style of joint. Caps are 1.146" Dia. with serations around the end of cap. Width of the cross on the complete old used assembly is 3.180" and on the partially assembled new one 3.687". Bob Quote
austinsailor Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 Those are my u-joints, the Cleveland type. Is there a source for new ones? Quote
streamer Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Those are my u-joints, the Cleveland type. Is there a source for new ones?Look at my post, this place has them. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Those look the same as my 46 uses. I think I paid $75 for one from Roberts. Quote
austinsailor Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 your guy in by found 2 - only 2, but I only needed one. He called about a dozen sources he knew of before finding the right one. He can get one more if anyone needs one. Thanks, Gene Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.