55 Fargo Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Hi Fred,I have a B&B carb kit sitting in front of me and if my eyes aren't deceiving me the depth to which the needle seats in those two fittings is slightly different.It seats a little deeper in the fitting you've just installed...Any other ideas? Ralph Thanx Ralph thats what I was thinking too....Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Fred, nice installation but I would also point out how close the fuel line is the the exhaust manifold, apart from any potential leakage problem from the fuel filter above I would think that the heated fuel would not be a good thing.......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Fred, nice installation but I would also point out how close the fuel line is the the exhaust manifold, apart from any potential leakage problem from the fuel filter above I would think that the heated fuel would not be a good thing.......andyd Hi all, so what is the "Concensus of the group", are these glass bowl filters safe or not? Do they have a history of leaking and causing fires? I will go with group concensus. I also turned my float down, seems to have alleviated the carb leaking, we shall see.........Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Hi Fred,The one I had mounted as yours is now was on a 1950 Plymouth.Probably was on the car since new.It was still on the car after 54 years when I sold the car and the car hadn't incinerated.;)I'm sure there are other stories.I do have a fire extinguisher on hand. Ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Never had a problem in six years with the one on my '38 Chrysler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Hi Fred,The one I had mounted as yours is now was on a 1950 Plymouth.Probably was on the car since new.It was still on the car after 54 years when I sold the car and the car hadn't incinerated.;)I'm sure there are other stories.I do have a fire extinguisher on hand. Ralph Hi Ralph, I also havea fire extinguisher on board, might geta another and bigger just in case..........Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Fred did you put a new gasket between the glass and metal part? If so I'd say you are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Never had a problem in six years with the one on my '38 Chrysler. Obivously they wrok, and leakage is not a usual issue. Today a Guy came over to pick up a dog house we sold, he came witha 64 or 65 Chevy Truck, a real work horse truck, he was into Dodge way back too, says he never had a problem with the glass bowl filters either. He did say in his experience, that the Mopar flat heads were great engines, but did not like to be driven at sustained high speeds........Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 i have massive problems getting my glass bowl dry. at the moment i'm running the engine without it, because i could not stop the leaking. i think the problem is not the gasket between the glass and metal, and if so, you can easily fix that by turning the glass a little in a circular motion and retighten it a few times, that usually does the trick. the problem (at least on my engine) is, that the connectors have to be tightend real hard in order to get them dry, just like brake linings. i always end up with the filter in a slightly turned position. i also tried all kinds of tapes and additional gaskets. i won't give up though, because they look fine inside there and must have worked back in the days. any idea where to buy a new set of connectors and fuel tubing? one of the other freds:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 is your fuel bowl set up with hose nipples or flare fittings? and they should be 1/8 pipe tapped to the body..is this correct ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 looks like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 behind a firewall...PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 mail sent;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 got it..seems you are straight 1/8 nipple to the carb and flare fit to the inlet...also should be 1/8 pipe thread to the filter I cannot really see super close, is your tubing metric (cuts on the high points of the nut) or SAE? (flat) I should have these in SAE..your fuel inlet size is for ? diameter tubing..tubing size would allow me to pick the correct backing nut for your tubing and you need only to cut and reflare is metric.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 this is all american made, should be inches all together. what do you mean "cuts on the high point of the nuts"? sorry, my english fails... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 in US this is the distingushing the mark for quick identification of metric tubing and flare nut combo...usually the nut is also of greenish plating in other application such as gas lines (aceteyle) etc..the nut is center nothced indicating gas/left thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 oh, ok, thanks! you never stop learning! there are cuts on the high points, i can see it on my screen. strange, i alsways thought everything on the car would be in inches... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Saraceno Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Other than using pipe thread sealant on the fittings, I'm not sure what else you can do. The threads going in either side of the bowl, as mentioned before, are 1/8" pipe thread. They are tapered so as some point they should become tight. The rest of the fitting appear to be flare fittings. I would think the problem would appear at the bowl fitting on the carb side. I would tighten up the carb fitting then the adapter fitting then tighten the bowl. After that just hold the bowl and tighten the rest of the fittings. With thread sealant and proper tightness all should be fine. If it is still leaking from the carb-bowl fitting, loosen up the fuel line and force that bowl around one more time. If it is leaking from any other fitting, it is either not tight enough or the fitting is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 you're right, jim, that's exactly where i think the leak is. as you can see on the photo, the previous owner tried to use a brass washer to seal the carb. the problem with that is that you only have a few thread turns left to take all the force. and what happens if you do that a cast aluminium thread a couple of times? it's shot... now that's the problem i have to deal with first:rolleyes: afterwards, i'll try as you said, hope that works. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 the use of metric on the flare could still be good enough to seat the flate against the insde nipple of the fitting...the washer on the carb behind the needle/seat valve can be of very thin soft metal say copper and do just fine, thin leather sould also work as lkong as the threads are not stripped and the metal had not been cut into badly..let me know if you need me to look for parts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 i will, tim, thank you! the thread turns deeper inside the cast carb housing are still intakt, i managed tightening the connector and it feels fair enough. now when my new pump arrives i can give the whole thing a try and if it still leaks then i'll come along whining and begging for spare parts:rolleyes: i'll keep using thrad sealant and vinyl tape, so let's see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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