kevinanderson Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 Are the rear fender weltings from Robert's vinyl "will fits" or prebent like the originals? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 odds are this is the generic vinyl welting that is corded and glued at the seam..no stictching to bind the cord and retain the shape should the glue bond fail..this is basically good stuff though..whipping the end for termination is necessary to seal the ends on application.. Quote
desoto1939 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 I prefer the all vynal fender welting over the old style that had the cord in the welting. The old cloth syle would hold water and this is what caused the rusting between the fender and the body and also you had the hole on the end that was open. With the all vynal there is no opening is is one complete molded unit. It also acts as anti squeek between the fender and body willnot hold water and if you get any wax on the vynal it will wipe off and not leave the white mark that the cloth does. I have this on my 39 DeSoto for over 12 years. If you are looking for POC or AACA then you should use the old cloth style and remember the welting never was painted the color of the car. You will lose points at an AACA or POC judging show. This is just my thoughts on the fender welting. rich desoto1939@aol.com Quote
47heaven Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 I was told that the original fender welting for the P15 Special Deluxes was stainless. So I just recently went down to the antique Ford guy near town and bought two 10ft stainless steel welts that I am going to shine up then install. They are straight pieces that have to be formed. Luckily, Mando has an original stainless welt he got off his recently purchased convertable that I can use to copy from. Quote
47heaven Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 Darin' date='Even if he doesn't have a good pattern to bend yours, it shouldn't be all that hard to do. You have to at least loosen the fender bolts anyway to get the stainless on. So.......just remove the bolts altogether, then use the fender as the pattern.[/quote'] Ok, Norm....I'll remember that. Thanks! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 the stainless can be a bit tricky to bend without kinking..there are special relief shapes along the most heavily curved areas that need to be copied from the original as best you can..do go slow..if possible, do have a block of hardwood that is cut as close to the shape of the fender to assist you along the way..easier on paint, patience and stainless trim this way..wishing you the best on this.. Quote
Frank Elder Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 the stainless can be a bit tricky to bend without kinking..there are special relief shapes along the most heavily curved areas that need to be copied from the original as best you can..do go slow..if possible, do have a block of hardwood that is cut as close to the shape of the fender to assist you along the way..easier on paint, patience and stainless trim this way..wishing you the best on this.. Tim, could you use a propane torch to warm it up enough to bend or would that discolor the stainless? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 the blue burnishing of the metal would polish back off..however heating this and trying to curve may be a bit hot to handle..I am thinking that as like most other tubing that if bent around a form of some nature it would prevent the 'urge' to suddenly kink..get the bend in the wrong place and getting it back out would be a big bother also..the lower front dogleg will probably be the most demanding section..I think I would start there.. even the rubber and vinyl require cutout and such to form and fit without having a kink in the works so to speak... Quote
47heaven Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 the stainless can be a bit tricky to bend without kinking..there are special relief shapes along the most heavily curved areas that need to be copied from the original as best you can..do go slow..if possible, do have a block of hardwood that is cut as close to the shape of the fender to assist you along the way..easier on paint, patience and stainless trim this way..wishing you the best on this.. Thanks, Tim. I will keep that info in mind for sure. Quote
47heaven Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 Tim, could you use a propane torch to warm it up enough to bend or would that discolor the stainless? I would think you would have a hard time from keeping the black vinyl tuck from burning and melting. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 1, 2009 Report Posted September 1, 2009 another trick I have used in the past when setting this stuff is to use some duct tape, yah that right..Red-Green to the rescue, anyway fold this duct ape over to attach to both sides and make a pull tab if you will...allows minute settings as you carefull seat the fender back to the body..when mounted and firm in place..remove the excess tape from under the fender.. Quote
greg g Posted September 2, 2009 Report Posted September 2, 2009 I used masking tape. You loop it and stick it to the material that goes between the body and fender, withthe loops facing down. Then as you begin to tighten the bolts you grab the loop and pull it down into the seam as you go along getting it nice and tight to the body lines, then when tightened, jsut go back under and tear or cut off the loops. Just make sure you don't get the ends of the tape too clost to the weltings bead or it may show in the seams. Lay the fender on a paded stand with the surface up, start in the middle of the fender and work out towars both ends. Go to Harbor freight and grab 10 or a dosen of those spring clamps that look lik clothes pins, the plastic ones will probably work but you will want some metal ones for the tricky areas. When you come to a fender bolt hole, cut the area out with snips or scissors. when the welting curves upon itself, cut inverted v's toward the bead but not all the way up, as you go along clamp it to keep it in place and attach your tape loops. when you get to the tricky bits at the front of the rear fender where they meet the rocker go slow and try using atubing bender to get the bends correct. Quote
falconvan Posted September 2, 2009 Report Posted September 2, 2009 Has anyone just skipped the welting altogether or is that doable? Quote
falconvan Posted September 2, 2009 Report Posted September 2, 2009 Thanks Norm. Mine's more of a street rod so I think I'll just go without. I didn't want to weld the fenders on, the seam doesn't bother me. Quote
greg g Posted September 2, 2009 Report Posted September 2, 2009 Several of the street rod houses have body colored welting so you gett he anti squeek with a bead the matches body color. Quote
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