JerryinTx Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I replaced all the glass in my P15 awhile back. Had a local glass place install and used Steele's rubber. Bottom line is I can't even wash my car without some water getting into it. The worst place is the rear quarter windows, which do not fit tight at the body interface. Also a little gets through where water puddles in the lower corners of the windshield. My cowl vent is also not watertight even with a new gasket. At this point, the interior of my car is pretty spartan. The back seat is out and I've got 2 coats of POR 15 on the floor, so wiping the water out with a towel is no problem. However, I'm getting close to finishing up the interior, and I sure don't want it wet. Thought maybe after the car sat out in the hot sun a few times, the rubber would expand and seal, but no dice. Has anybody used 3M adhesive to finish the job? And what should I do about the cowl vent? Gasket came from Steele also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Do you have all the interior mouldings on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 go to Autozone , get a small tube of black silcone adhesive and sealant, comes in a small tube like what you would buy the red RTV silicone,becareful, it is very sticky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 For the cowl vent I would put the black RTV on top of the new seal and spray release agent on the inner side of the cowl,close the vent let it set. When you open the vent the sealent should not stick to the cowl vent because of the release agent and it just filled in your gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 after sitting in the sun the odds are it is going to SHRINK and is the means one uses to draw up the gasket for that extra bulge most new rubber often yields...did you actually see the channels and pinch welds that the new rubber was seated onto...did the installer come behind with a good butyl sealer..and lastly is this original glass or was the glas cut new from a supplier, reason is that the glass could be a tad on the shy side of full and therefore allowing a poor seat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Even if the cowel has a new gasket and water is leaking into the vent the water should not be getting into the front section of the car. You might have two situations here, 1. The sheet metal unter the vent has some holes 2. There is also a drain hose that comes out of the vent area is this blocked Check this entire area. When I had my glass replaced on my 39 Desoto I had to go back and run a small silicone bear around the exterior stainless trim where it met up with the window glass. Thsi helped my situation. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 my new gaskets leaked for about 2 months after installed eveentually all but one source went away. That one I sealed with some of the stuff in the tube. With heat from the sun and some chassis flex and road vibration, they may yet seat better. Also you might want to remove the garnishes on the quarters to allow any movement which may occur to do so more easily. Do blow some air through the cowl vent drain. couple spider egg cases will plug it up allowinf the cavity to fill and overwhel the gasket. You might also invest i a california duster and cut down on wet washes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radioguy7 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 The glass installer I use always uses a good Butyl sealant whenever he replaces auto glass. He guarantees his work against leaks. If you drop the vehicle off at his shop to install the glass he will even leak test it before returning it to you. I'm pretty sure the same sealant is available thru your local NAPA or auto parts store. When I pulled the glass out of my 57 Belair I noticed that the factory used that grey non hardening ribbon caulk all over underneath the rubber seals. It seems like thats all they had back then and it did do the job pretty well. I'm sure the modern rubber caulk should seal things up tight as a drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm's Coupe Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Do you have dual heater setup. If you do, I believe there are two gaskets for the cowl vent. One on top vent, and another one on the lower vent inside the car under the dash. Greg. I have a California Duster and use it quite often. However, if you have one, have you noticed it leaves a film on your car. Eventually that film builds up after a few uses on the paint and dulls the shine. So........even with the duster, you have to keep washing the car to get rid of that wax film the duster leaves. Seems to also streak the stainless on the grill and the stainless eye brows on my headlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hemingway Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Greg. I have a California Duster and use it quite often. However' date=' if you have one, have you noticed it leaves a film on your car. Eventually that film builds up after a few uses on the paint and dulls the shine. So........even with the duster, you have to keep washing the car to get rid of that wax film the duster leaves. Seems to also streak the stainless on the grill and the stainless eye brows on my headlights.[/quote'] Norm, you must not of broke in your California Duster right. I wash & wax my cars once a year at the start of the show season and use the California Duster & Instant Detailerfor the rest of the year. Dennis:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 With the black ccar that is my drill. Wash and dry and use a detailer, then Cali dust and detailer unless I get caught in the rain and muddy it up, I try not to wash it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 They say to wash the California duster once and a while that may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I sealed between the body and stainless on my 50 Plymouth, I think it gives it a more finished look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Do you have all the interior mouldings on? Yes for the rollups, which do not leak, and also for the rear quarters, which do. Windshield and rear window still do not have mouldings on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 For the cowl vent I would put the black RTV on top of the new seal and spray release agent on the inner side of the cowl,close the vent let it set. When you open the vent the sealent should not stick to the cowl vent because of the release agent and it just filled in your gaps. Sounds like a reasonable solution. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Do blow some air through the cowl vent drain. couple spider egg cases will plug it up allowinf the cavity to fill and overwhel the gasket.You might also invest i a california duster and cut down on wet washes. I will blow out the hose tomorrow AM. Although I replaced the hose, it's been sitting awhile. I do have a California Duster and use it frequently. I always worry that I'm grinding grit into the paint with it though. Not true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Thanks for all the great suggestions guys. I appreciate the help. Sounds like butyl sealer is in the works, along with checking out that cowl drain hose. Does anybody ever get their car perfect? .......... Probably not, but I'm getting closer every weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 after sitting in the sun the odds are it is going to SHRINK and is the means one uses to draw up the gasket for that extra bulge most new rubber often yields...did you actually see the channels and pinch welds that the new rubber was seated onto...did the installer come behind with a good butyl sealer..and lastly is this original glass or was the glas cut new from a supplier, reason is that the glass could be a tad on the shy side of full and therefore allowing a poor seat... Tim, the glass was all re-cut, but I checked it against the originals (?) and it was all a good replica. The installer did not use any sealer to my knowledge, and that's probably what I need. Here's a picture of what seems to me to be an open area below the left rear quarter window gasket. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Jerry, no matter what brand of windscreen rubber is used they all should have a windscreen sealer inserted between the glass & rubber and the glass and body shell......without any sealer then you should expect it to leak.........buy some sealer in a large caulking tube with the plastic pointy thing, stick the tube in a caulking gun and do the job yourself.........no more leaks.......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Yes for the rollups, which do not leak, and also for the rear quarters, which do. Windshield and rear window still do not have mouldings on. My new windshield with gasket leaked gallons in until I put the moulding back on. The moulding pushes against the rubber and makes it seal. Mine now only has a slight drip on the right where I am missing 2 of the screws for the moulding. I suggest you install them and see if that cures your leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm's Coupe Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Norm, you must not of broke in your California Duster right. I wash & wax my cars once a year at the start of the show season and use the California Duster & Instant Detailerfor the rest of the year.Dennis:cool: Well........I don't know. I did follow the little instructions that did come with the duster. You could really see the wax streaks if you hit the glass of one of the windows with it. I've had mine about as long as I've owned the coupe (14 years this year). Since it said the dirtier it looks the better it gets, I've never washed it and it still does the same thing, just shake it as I use it. You only notice the streaks on the stainless or chrome though, not the body. But........the body just starts looking dull after a few wipes with the duster. Maybe I should wash it and see what happens. However, also have another one for my wife's car and it does the same thing. She has washed hers and it still streaks and dulls the finish, and that's on a new car. Both are original California Dusters, not the cheap knockoffs. That said, the dusters say they have carnuba wax in them to attract the dust. That's the same stuff used in most furniture polishes. After several uses on a piece of furniture, you start to get a build up of wax, and will also start to make the finish look duller. That's what that 37 Philco radio I have had on it when I got it. About 40 some years worth. After I cleaned it all off the radio looked like new again. That carnuba wax is also what causes the streaks in the chrome and stainless. Of course, you can wipe that off with a cleaner like you and Greg mentioned. But.....I don't use any detail type cleaners, just the duster. I still use it because it is easier than always washing the car, but not really that happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 All the windows now have beads of black silicone sealer around them now. I didn't know the best way to do it, so I just ran a bead and wiped it with a paper towel. I am not too pleased with the way it looks right now. Hope it trims out neater with an Exacto knife after it dries! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 I believe I would have held out for the butyl..it can be bought for just a couple bucks at any big box auto parts store....be careful with the trimming of the RTV...the butyl would go on easy with a caulk gun...clean up nicely and stay pliable... toluene, can be bought at paint stores and I think even Lowes...it will dissolve the RTV but be aware it will also eat up paint ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 I used masking tape on either side of the seem that I was sealing, laid the bead spread it out with my finger then removed the tape on either side to leave straight edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryinTx Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 I looked for butyl at Auto Zone. All I could find was Permatex silicone sealer- messy stuff! Aero, I see now why your beads look nice. Live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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