Los_Control

Yeah I would have to say the ideas I have are really not smart .... like me. What if you put your castle nut in a vice & ground off what you needed? What if you took your castle nut and & used your mini die grinder and just made the slots deeper. so the cotter key would fit. IMHO, A castle nut does a very important job. Since I'm not a engineer I can not tell you the force a front wheel will give on the wheel bearing & nut to keep it in place. Exactly how thick a castle nut needs to be to accept the force of the front wheel bearings ..... All options seem to be just get a thinner castle nut .... or simply flip the existing nut around so it fits. Yeah I got no great idea either.

Ok that works .... I have the Rustyhope kit sitting on a shelf ..... I bought it for a different project .... current project does not need it ... yet! But I have done some reading on instructions & what to expect. I believe it is rustyhope website that suggest to just install the castle nut backwards, that fixes the issue ..... I honestly have given this some thought .... seems so wrong .... Would the nut really be less effective if installed backwards? My personal opinion is, THAT IS SO WRONG! Same time I have never found a honest reason why the nut would be less effective if installed backwards? Just kinda curious what others think about this method.. Another method is get online and order thinner castle nuts. I simply have never heard of removing a spacer .... This may work out really well by replacing it with a proper thickness spacer. Simply curious on how it works out.

Sorry I looked a couple times and re-read, I guess I just missed your solution to the castle nut cotter key issue. I know of a few solutions, was just wondering what your solution was?

I wish others would stop beating up on @MarcDeSoto ... because at one time he was a autoshop teacher. First thing to remember .... when was the last auto shop teacher used in America? Marc has some principles and trying to apply them ..... His teaching skills was 50 years ago. .... I'm more concerned with the young photo they use in the avatar. .... Just incredible how wolves will dive in at a post . Not actually ask why it is important.

Favorite story of a painter not finishing a job. My neighbor has a 64 chebby truck. It had been restored previously but needed a repaint. Cousin Jeb does a great job painting it & gets the truck back in a reasonable amount of time. Does not finish the tailgate but claims he will get it done in the next month or so ... too many jobs going on right now. The Cousins father dies, leaves him a few million $$ .... He does a fire sale on his house, shop, takes a cruise to Paris ... Claims he will never paint another car. My neighbor is out of a tailgate ..... I wonder what others lost in the transaction. Just saying even people with good intentions have exceptions in life that change. My neighbor is in the market for a good 1964 Chevrolet tailgate .... He is not mad at his cousin.

Soo many terror stories about paint jail. Cars going into a painters body shop, then never coming out again ... or taking 6 months longer then expected. Or $K's more then originally quoted. I really feel that the paint will be what your skills and abilities are capable of. ..... Like welding, you practice & learn as you go. While there are many high quality paints available, cheaply. I suggest you try some practice runs on things that do not matter ... I restored & painted a old wheel barrow a few years ago .... just to gain the skills. Then I built & painted a garden shed .... for the training to use the paint I wanted to use ..... nothing beats practice .... just practice on things that do not matter .... When ready paint your car.

They sell a gloss hardener & a semi gloss hardener. As others say talk to the supplier.

A hand truck is a real good idea, I may have to borrow that idea myself. I also like the idea of pneumatic tires for rolling over clutter. If you are welding, good chance you will have a grinder and extension cords out or a air hose. With the cart you have, you would have to clear a path to safely navigate. Also the idea of 2 wheels instead of 4. No welder accidentally rolling into the car scratching the paint. Also like the idea of a shelf for supplies. rebar to make hooks for cords to hang on. Something to hang your welding clamps on. After watching Fitzee video on his cart, I really could not be satisfied with a typical cart like you have. It would be a "git me by" until I built one. ...... Basically what I have now. In fairness, if I'm welding in the garage I do not move the welder. If I'm welding in the carport in front of garage, the 2 left side cabinet wheels rotate & I just move the welder 3' to the doorway ..... so I get by. I get my gas & bottles from tractor supply. I currently have the medium size bottle. Next time I exchange it for a full bottle, will trade it up for the larger size bottle like yours. Then my existing cabinet will no longer work as is.

You are 100% correct in your opinion PA. Sometimes we spend a dollar to save a nickel. Really is a art to distinguish when to buy or build. I'm in the mindset that when you buy a welder, building a new cart is a perfect time to learn to use it. Building the cart will give you a great opportunity to learn the quirks of your welder. So when you build your cart you could have saved $10 & bought one, Or you just gained $1K worth of schooling to build your own. There is a lot to say for either approach. @Plymouthy Adams does not need a welding lesson. I actually got my welding lesson creating a front hood for a riding lawn mower. .... Because it needed to be done. We all have different ideas of schooling.

I need to build a cart also in the worse way. Here is my temporary cart. (for past 3 years) This only works if you are a grumpy old man like me with no friends .... I can keep the bottle upright. If people come by the garage I chase them off so they do not knock the bottle over. Just pointing out what not to do. Since you are interested in building a cart, going to share a video from Fitzee on building a cart. He has a lot of good ideas and have built a few in the past ... Well worth watching if you want to build one from scratch.

It really was a post I shared that the op meant to post here. The original poster really did not understand the posting sequence & sent me a pm instead of replying to the original thread here. I dunno what proper procedure is, I just did not feel qualified to answer all their questions in private so I copy/pasted the private reply here. Thinking the poster would get more replies/help here in public forum then a private forum. For whatever reasons, we have not seen the original poster back.

So obvious issues .... carburetor is not one of them

My goal is to cruise on the highway. As it is the car is tapped out around fifty-five miles per hour. (As I said, I've fallen in with bad company so this might not be the way to go.) I didn't want to mess with the rear end, which is probably five or six to one. Or, the transmission which seems to work well. No, I don't want headers. I was hoping to use the oil bath air cleaner as I love the look of the stock engine. Those are the goals. Did you have further thoughts on how to achieve those? Just sharing a post to pm that I think the op meant to share here

While the mechanics may be fine .... 95 Horse flathed Brigs & Stratton Lawn mower engines really is not their cup of tea. They may build awesome sbc or LS motors. The flatheads are known for not breathing well. So adding more cfm to a carburetor that the engine can not handle efficiently .... yes that looks pretty cool .... does it actually help? Or hurt? Just asking Are we helping a stock running car, or are we hurting the stock car?

I fell in with bad company and they've talked me into switching the single barrel carb for a dual primary with secondary. This is the sentence I'm reading ..... I'm just not feeling the completely stock mopar with a 12 volt conversion .... Is exactly what the owner wants. I really would like to hear more from the owner to describe what they do want. As it sits I Am thinking the owner needs to get as far away as fast as they can from their current mechanic. I have no issues with Langdon, I personally would lean to a Webber 2 bbl single carb for performance ..... Thats not the question I'm seeing from the original poster.

First thing to clarify is your goals for the engine/car. The typical carter Carburetor worked for these engines All the way from the 30's to the 70's on Flathead 6 engines. I understand if you want to go custom headers, more cfm from the carburetor .... I do not think that is what you are after. For my truck I was able to purchase a rebuilt carburetor from Rock Auto ... There are many shops that can rebuild your existing carburetor. Is actually pretty easy if you want to watch a video from Mike's Carburetors & purchase the rebuild kit ..... Now if the body is worn, it needs to be drilled and a new oversize bushing installed so the shafts do not leak air out of the side of the carburetor, people still do this if you can find the right shop. Just saying your 1 bbl Carter Carb was used from the factory for 50 years with no issues on your 95 horsepower engine. Just fixit. If your goal really is to increase horse power on your stock flat 6 engine ....not sure the carb would be the best place to start.

Agree with you Bryan, seems there would be some amount of tolerance allowed. And all engines would be subject to this. I dunno maybe it really is a matter for a maser engine builder or a machinist to answer. Someone who has built 100's of engines and many race engines. What I find odd is the same rod, piston is used for the measurements. It is dead flat on some cylinders while offset on others. Now if you are certain the deck is flat. I do not see how a crank could cause that. A wrist pin will allow the piston to swivel, but not tilt? Makes me think that goes back to when the block was cast in the mold? Then the cast block is machined ... older engines of the 30's-50's Ford, Chevy, Dodge all of them would be cast/machined with the same level of quality. Today we have much better level of quality and tighter tolerances. So what I'm starting to wonder .... The piston you are using, is it possible from wrist pin to top, it is off .001" or .003" From one side to the other? From when it was cast? Maybe you can use your calipers and measure in some way all your pistons & see if they come out the same? Just thinking something is still awry with the test procedure being used. With a line bore & the cylinder bore & the deck planed. I could see a consistent pattern of say the front of the piston higher then the rear on all cylinders ... not 2 cylinders. I would also suggest that with a cast crank that the height tolerances would change between cylinders, but the plane of the top of pistons would be same from front to rear? Is it possible I really should be mowing the grass & looking for excuses? ???

Just curious for my own educational purposes. These #'s seem disturbing to me ...... Then I wonder what type of #'s would be expected from a good running used engine torn down just to measure? I can see where a engine builder could spend a lot of time/money trying to achieve the perfect compression ratio for their build. Gain 10 horse power, smoother running engine. Guess my question is, would a new flathead 6 engine have even measurements across the cylinders?

For a battery pack, I have seen these advertised on the internet for awhile, looks to be useful. We all need a good bright flashlight from time to time, then it is solar powered & charged from the sun. Same time it will power your usb devices such as a phone from the solar charger. Seems like it could be a useful tool to have in the glove box when needed. Then used to charge the phone while driving. Is it any good? No clue, for $30 is cheap enough and Amazon is sold out .... https://www.amazon.com/Preppers-Tactical-Flashlight-Emergency-Ultimate/dp/B07YNF3MQ5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I would not order anything before inspecting thoroughly what you have & what you need. These old Dodges do not have readily available Drums like a ferd or a chubby. You could easily order $200 worth of shoes just to find out it is your drums that are bad .... You really need to know exactly what you have, the condition of each part & a good idea how long each part could last before being replaced .... to make a educated decision about fixing your brakes. About the charger, Most phones need 5 volt to charge. I would be more concerned about the positive ground of the vehicle and if it would work with the phone? A example is our 6 volt positive ground radios can be gutted and converted to a negative ground system .... But we do not have a inline converter to switch the radio without damage to the radio. So just a WAG, the 6 volts is enough to supply the 5 volt requirement ... Possibly destroy the phone when the generator is cruising down the highway supplying 8 volts to the battery ..... I would be more concerned of the reverse polarity on our vehicles. Most of us have a old junk phone lying around you could try and see if damages the phone before trying it on your good phone?

Cant say I blame you I just thought @Kilgore47post comes at a perfect time for me. Obvious from the photo I have lots of work ahead of me ... Everything works fine as is, I just need to get the frame stripped & painted then run the new wiring, brake lines, shocks .... then work on the mechanical. Brake hydraulics, shoes, drums are done. I need to go through the drive line & ujoints, change the oil blah blah blah .... Not once did I think about a truck parked in a field for 20 years would have a plugged vent. I really do appreciate the tip & will check that while I'm here.

Thanks for the tip!

I have to agree with @Adam H P15 D30 I can see trying to stay period correct with your build .... with your 360 that bus left a long time ago. You could pick up a Ford Explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and many many options of gear ratios, you can get your parking brake back, you can buy brake parts from any local auto parts store. The swap is pretty straight forward, buy a rear end from the bone yard, try to get all the E-brake cables that go with it to modify to your use. Grind off the spring perches and weld on new ones .... Tractor supply use to sell spring perches for $20 ... I dunno about now and sure there are other options .... The U-joints depends with what you have now. I could name many more reasons to make the swap .... While I can not honestly think of 1 reason to modify your original rear end. IMHO .... agree or disagree .... Beefing up a stock rear end is like putting lipstick on a pig.

This week 1953, five months after leaving White House, ex-President Harry Truman took Bess alone on 19-day roadtrip from Independence, Mo., to East Coast and back in their new Chrysler New Yorker: I really have no idea or control over the press. I can picture in my mind Truman buying a 53, then later buying a 55. Then the Journalist mixing up the story completely. I'm only saying I thought the story interesting ... If you appreciate Truman or not .... I imagine they had a new car as soon as they thought they wanted one. The fact the news reporter pointed it out as a 1953 in 1955 ...... Or is it really a 1953 ? I'm pretty sure the journalist is a idiot & the car is real?

While I have nothing to say about the 200 Ferd 6, they were a good engine ..... Same time the Ferd 300 6 has broken records of how reliable it is. Now if you have a 200 & going with it, fine .... If you are searching & can find a 300, Thats where I would invest my time .... The 200 is not a bad engine either. The Ford 300 6 has been around for decades and a very solid motor.