Los_Control

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Just my opinion. If they are dirty with grease or fluids from your hands while working on them, then you can just clean them up. If they are saturated with brake fluid from a leaky wheel cylinder for any length of time, the shoes will absorb the oil. Now you clean the surface and they look clean, then the oil inside the shoe will seep back out to the surface again. Some say you can never make them right again.

I'm only suggesting the post @GrumpyJim made, suggest non stock wiring. Absolutely nothing wrong with that ..... just depends who replaced the wiring in what decade. ...... Possible they were running shine and have a few extra electrical oddities to it. We know nothing with the information provided.

Tough call and from the information you have given, I doubt anyone here can tell you what it is. I do not think that a flashing e-brake light is stock ..... the electric fuel pump is not stock ..... I'm thinking your car has been rewired. Thats perfectly fine. ..... Is it still 6 volt or 12 volt? ..... there are so many things a person can do when they re-wire a car. I bet @Sniper has more crap wired on his car then any 1950's car thought of having. Then there are those that were taught in the 40's and did more crap then should be allowed. Nobody knows what you have by your description. ..... When multiple items goes out at one time .... I suspect possibly a fuse or a junction box ..... something that powers multiple items. It might be easiest to start with the fuel pump and trace the wiring back to where it gets power. Then figure out why it has no power. Just saying, your issue is not a stock factory wiring problem. You will need a test light and trace the problem back to the origin. ..... starting at the end of the line, the fuel pump and working forwards might be the easiest way.

If you are young and dumb you can correct that. I was 15 years old and had a 1963 Rambler .... it was a big job for me to replace the clutch in it. I had no $$ left to fix the brakes .... So I just pinched off the brake line going to the left front wheel ... so it obviously pulled to the right. The old hippie I sold the car to for $100 just laughed, at least it pulls you into the ditch and not oncoming traffic. Just saying, we can adjust such things. In your case, I probably would want to completely disassemble the brakes and use a wire wheel to clean the backing plates, I would clean every moving part and probably paint .... not needed though .... then properly grease all pivot points. If everything else is correct they should work fine .... @soth122003 had a great point, any brake fluid on the shoes they need replaced .... grease and such from your hands you can clean off. .... not brake fluid though.

I'll never forget my time at a wrecking yard I called in to pick up a part .... I drove 1 hour & got there and they were just going to lunch .... I had to come back after lunch. Then it took another hour for them to go pull the part and deliver it ..... After 3 hours of this waiting game I was frustrated ..... I was laying into the poor lady clerk ..... Gawd Dang it, I'm retired!!! ..... I dont have time to sit around here all day to get a part! She busted out laughing and that made me laugh and I felt better

The only weather I got from it was cooler temps in the 70's-80's and fair amount of rain .... my tools suffered because I left them on the work table overnight and they got rained on Garden has been watered good for last few days Now the grass needs to be mowed again I pray for the others, yesterday a friend on another forum lost power for 3 hours ..... Me there was nothing of significance.

I want to sign a petition complaining about my new Gates water pump. Sure it works fine .... Just because my bypass hose leaks .... my new pump looks like it is 20 years old. Them dirty devils should have put some forethought into it ...... Now I'm going to have to remove it just to add paint to it. Probably fix the bypass hose leak while there .... My Gates pump works fine .... I wish I did paint it before installation ... I did not .... I will replace the worn spring clamps on the bypass hose with worm drive. Just sucks I have to do the job twice .... just a heads up for others.

I agree with you 100% ...... I'm of the opinion that someone is paying for the reports, and typically the report will be written in their favor. So these reports really do not interest me. Recently we were told to wear a surgical mask to avoid spreading covid. Mask were tried over 100 years ago and documented in reports they do not prevent the passing of a virus. They Doctored up a report and sent it out just the same to wear mask. A few years later honest reports are coming out that support the fact mask never did work ..... we all knew this 100 years ago. All I'm saying Rich, I have been lied to so many times on fake reports slanted to support one side or the other ..... depending who is paying for it. My opinion is strictly from my personal use of the oil over several years. ..... Does not mean I'm right. As far as what modern oil I'm currently using ...... walmart supertech. I have read up on it and it is only made in 2 plants in the USA ..... one is Mobil1, the other is Exxon ..... depends what side of the country you live on as to who made your oil. Either way am satisfied with it ..... lately been wondering if they cut corners to get the cost down, For a few Dollars more, can just switch to Mobil1 oil and quit thinking about it ......

Please understand Rich, I'm not trying to say your facts are wrong ...... I'm only reporting my personal experience with using Castrol GTX on modern full flow engines where I always changed oil filter with the oil. After years of use, I finally decided that the oil is simply not good enough for my 1991 chebby 350 vortec engine, or my 1993 Dodge V6. I wont run it in my 1949 Dodge. Sorry Rich, I just do not think it is a good idea to start a thread on oil. Will always be someone to come along and have a different opinion. Like myself. I'm only reporting my actual experience with using the oil. Castrol has been around for many years .... years ago we had issues with oil that had paraffin in it. Both Penzoil & Quakerstate had it. ...... I watched a buddy take the valve covers off of a fairly new engine, just filled with sludge. .... He was so disappointed in the oil performance, He bought a new crate engine to replace the new crate engine he had. ...... Just saying, he used Pennzoil ...... I'm not impressed with oils that have a bunch of extra additives ..... not all the additives are helpful, or do more harm then good. What exactly on our old engines need a special oil, that the far superior modern oils do not provide? Many people on this forum have fresh rebuilt engines and running modern oil with zero issues. Castrol GTX is simply like a Dinosaur that forgot to die ..... like cockroaches.

I suppose words written on paper mean something, as long as there are facts to back it up with ...... not doubting Castrol GTX quality. I used it for a few years in my daily driver vehicles. ..... With 2 rigs running, the car with the most miles never exceeded 6K miles per year. The truck had even less. I always change my oil twice a year, spring and fall .... less then 3K miles on it. I was always disappointed when I changed my oil and it was black in a few days. ...... Several years ago I was trying to sell a van that had a excellent running engine. The prospective buyer that wanted the van just for the engine ..... The buyer took one look at the oil on the dipstick and never stayed around for me to start it up ..... The oil looks terrible. .... He suspected the engine never got any maintenance. I have no good excuse why I still used it after that .... finally 2 years ago I swore off of it and am happy to look at clean oil when I check it. A good possibility that it looks so dirty because it has all the extra additives ..... I really have no clue, I won't be using it in my engines though.

I agree 100%, I flushed the radiator with water then filled it with straight water and drove it for a week. Now when I drained the water just a tiny hint of brown color came out with it. ... It would have been fine to quit there. I already bought the vinegar and had planned to do it .... probably over kill .... but it is finished now.

I'm all for using the correct puller .... Is a must to have the right tool for the job. .... sadly think I spent $75 for mine. Also the first time I took mine off of a truck that had been sitting for 20 years in a field. ..... The drivers side was a little rough to pull. I remember I had so much pressure on it I was feeling uncomfortable with it. So with a 3 pound sledge hammer I applied pressure then just walked away and sat and drank a beer .... get up and apply more pressure to it then walk away .... after 2 or 3 beers and repeating the process, I heard a loud POP. The drum came free, the dog bone handle of the puller flew 3' in the air and hit the side of the house. ..... take the axle nut loose, be sure to leave the nut on or the drum will fly off also. The passenger side came off with no fight. .... driver side took time. ..... apply pressure then walk away, come back and apply more .... let the pressure work for you and drink a beer just do not get in a hurry.

Maybe I dodged the bullet on that one. Changing the transmission fluid worked. Just one of those things where something seems wrong, just cant put your finger on it. Now it shifts correctly, real smooth going down the highway .... have been driving the car for 10 years ..... you know when something is not right, you know when things are right .... it is all right now. Last thing I'm going to do to it for now, I drained the water out and filled it with 5% strength cleaning vinegar. Will run it up and down the highway a little bit then flush it out and fill with antifreeze. I like vinegar, it is a mild cleaner and it works well while doing no harm. I like to run the engine through a few heat cycles for best performance. The used engine I pulled out had a lot of dirt in the cooling system and turned to mud in the radiator ..... while I did flush the radiator out, there would still be some in the heater core .... I just feel better cleaning it before adding new antifreeze. Tomorrow I start working on my chebby truck, as a daily driver I just have a list of things that need to be corrected. Will probably take me a month at the speed I work. But then I get to work The 49 Dodge and this time finish it up and get it on the road ..... Just getting one step closer to working on my pilothouse

I was under the impression he was shutting down the store ..... basically selling whatever was left on the shelf's.

Winner Winner chicken dinner! I,m such a idiot asking for Dexron 4 .... they don't even make it ..... they make 2,3,5 ..... I went back by Napa today and was talking to the owner of the store and he set me straight .... after I confused the hell out of him asking for Dexron 4 ...... ATF +4 is what I need. So now I'm just hoping have not ruined the transmission yet, I have just a little over 100 miles on it and all short trips. I bought 5 quarts of ATF +4, when I drain the pan I wont drain the TC .... will probably only get 2 or 3 quarts in it. I guess my plan is to drain what I can then refill .... run it a few miles and then change it a 2nd time .... I just do not have any better ideas on how to get the bad stuff out of there.

Finally went down Monday and got inspection and registration sticker .... gave it a good bath and went out on the freeway for a test drive and immediately got pulled over by a sheriff. Ran my plates as he was passing me by and came back last registered in 2022 .... He was very polite and professional, took a couple min to clear things up and he apologized .... I thanked him for his service and just drove home forgetting about a test drive that day. Anywho, been running into a little trouble with the transmission. I drove to the inspection station and it was not shifting correctly, not going into 4th gear. After inspection I drove it and it was shifting fine. Same thing this morning, start it up and go for a drive, not shifting into 4th gear. I pull to the side of the road and shut it off, count to 10 and start it up and it shifts fine. So I jump on the freeway and drive 10 miles one way, turn around and 15 miles the other way and coming back home when going through town at a low speed it drops to 3rd and wont shift again. .... Has me baffled, I need to double check wiring connectors and such. So now I'm wondering and hoping others can chime in about the ATF fluid. Father told me this car needs Dexron 4 ATF, I could not find that last time and used a universal Castrol GTX fluid that Dr @Sniper agreed it should work .... and it did. This time I went to Napa and they had Dexron 3 or 5 .... no Dexron 4, But Charlie convinced me Dexron 5 would work fine so thats what I'm using. Valvoline Dexron 5 / Mercon LV ...... I'm wondering if this is my problem and I need to flush it out? It suggest for use in place of 2,3,5 .... nothing about 4

That is good stuff and since it is a few years old, what I think I know is your complete fuel system has been replaced and working for a few years. It all seems to come back to, if you use the electric pump the problem goes away. New fuel tank, new lines, new pump ...... I would be tempted to say your fuel pump is failing when it gets warm? Is it a rebuilt pump, is it possible it has a crack in it somewhere ..... hard to introduce air bubbles if there is no leaks. Is it possible your pump just stopped working and was just some sort of turbulence you saw? It is possible you may have a joint or connection not quite tight enough in your fuel lines ..... I just doubt this if no areas are wet to the touch. Only thing I can think of, your mechanical pump is failing when it gets warmed up or working intermittently off & on ..... the electric pump saves your bacon. With today's modern crap they sell as replacement parts, I can not imagine what is failing ...... seems everything works fine except the mechanical pump. I picked up my pump at Napa ..... seems it was pretty painless at $35 or so, might be worth a shot to just replace the one you have.

Maybe I need to go back and revisit your thread on that ..... I think there were some questions on if you were using a 12V battery on a 6V system. And if you were, you should have a ballast resistor in place. .... The 12V battery will make your coil hot. .... will not prevent your car from starting though. If you leave it this way eventually will probably burn the coil out. All the ballast resistor does is reduce the voltage coming from the 12V battery to 6V which the coil is prepared to handle ..... unless you add a 12V coil that does not need a external resistor. I'm switching to 12V so I need these items. I'm just saying, you can use a 12V battery to start it ..... it will make your coil hot unless you properly address the issues .... I just never saw your reply back on what battery you were using.

My opinion on the coil, it will be at least as hot as the engine it is attached to ..... Mine is mounted to a metal bracket bolted to the head .... the heat will just transfer to the coil. Also the engine bay is like a oven .... the internal engine parts affected by the cooling system is 160F .... I guarantee the exhaust manifold is not 160F .... no idea what kind of air flow or exchange these cars have under the hood .... then to top it off, the coil makes voltage and that creates heat ..... it is normal for a coil to be hot imho. When it literally burns you when you touch it, then it may be time to replace.

Just my thoughts, the battery in my daily driver sbc is 600 amps .... yours is probably overkill. Still trying to remember though, we have bounced around a lot .... are you 6V starting with a 12V battery? @sniper explained in your other thread, your coil will get hot if you do not have a ballast resistor in front of the coil. ..... It will still run. Do you have a new set of points & condenser installed? .... I have seen modern condensers never start a car out of the box, then seen them start a car once, but never again ... they can work 100 miles and then fail. Every thing you say kind of sounds normal, sucks if it is a condenser that failed though .... you have to diagnose by the brightness of the spark at the plugs ... if you have the original I would try sticking it back in.

Yeah mine needs water every other day at the least .... right now it is screaming for water ..... Just been so busy with other projects that the garden is getting neglected this year. The wife car has been a challenge for me but think I have it whipped now ..... that has kept me busy for 2 months .... my daily driver truck broke down on me and with used parts on the shelf I fixed it just needs a good tuneup ... past due on oil change and I have $200 worth of parts from RockAuto ..... lust trying to get the wife car finished and out of my work area. Don't get me started on neglected household projects ..... Glad you getting those water lines out of the way .... here they are only 1 or 2 feet deep, my sewer line is 3' deep out in the alley, is only 2' deep through the yard then dives down. Water lines are not buried deep either ..... still a job to do.

Lucky b@stard! I have a hard time with tomatoes here. Just gets to hot in the summer and the blooms fall off never produce. So I get a few tomatoes in the spring, then in the fall get a few more .... never enough for salsa though .... funny cherry tomatoes grow great .... I eat em like candy though while watering.

Little too early for a victory lap yet .... We got 50 miles on it so far .... last used engine spun a bearing about 40 miles as soon as I gave it a good shake down run around town, I took it right out on the freeway .... It did ok. A issue popped up, the speed limit is 75mph. Normally this car you barely touch the gas pedal and it cruises at 80mph. ..... The gas in it is 2.5 years old. I had to give it over 1/4 throttle to get it up to 75 .... then going over 75 it started to chug like it was running out of fuel. Drop the speed down to 70 and it cruises comfortably ........ The gas gauge was reading full I have it down to 3/4 tank and want to get it to 1/2 then fill it with premium fuel and let them mix together. ...... maybe it will run better. Other then fighting bad fuel, it is running fine. ...... It is getting a major bath this weekend, just getting ready to pressure wash the engine bay, then give the exterior a good bath .... recharge the AC. I thought about getting it registered today, then my tag would be due in June and only get 11 months instead of 12 .... so Monday taking it down for inspection. .... Then will get full 12 months registration. I need to adjust the camber on the drivers side, passenger is fine and it drives fine .... will get abnormal tire wear so I will lift it back up and adjust, give everything else a once over to be sure is ok ..... I am feeling confident it is back in the living world again.

Actually a funny staged photo .... can anyone think of a good reason to raise a car that high? The lift they have looks to be decent and that style has a safety lock on it so it can not come down if their is a issue. Seems to have solid lumber on the lift raising the car ..... The rear stands are only to prevent the car from tilting backwards ... they have no weight on them. Just a silly staged photo to post on FB to get clicks.