Bob Riding

Because it's not finished, it's hard to give it an accurate price estimate. The 2020 Collector Car Price Guide lists your car in in #4 condition "GOOD - A drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. All components may need restoration to be 'excellent', but the vehicle is mostly usable 'as is'. $5,660. # 3 condition "VERY GOOD - Completely operable original or older restoration showing wear. Also a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored vehicle with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts. $12,740. So your $8,300 price seems reasonable. As to whether or not you can find THE buyer, I think expanding your ad though other media will help. I've had good luck through Facebook Marketplace. Also BAT (Bring a Trailer) and even Hemmings. I've also found that if you can say that it "runs and drives" you will have better luck.

Mine has only one choke and it always has worked well. I have dual Carters with George Asche's setup.

Not sure if you can read the text, but the Deluxe had the 235hp motor, while the standard New Yorker got the 195hp. In order to make that 40hp increase, Chrysler added " a four barrel carb, larger air cleaner, improved intake manifolding, larger exhaust manifold; dual exhaust and larger intake and exhaust ports." It was the largest hp engine in any production car in 1954.

Hey dennis, After you old me about the '54 Chrysler from the Raleigh auction I tried to get the sold price but they don't publish their results! If Steve at Globe doesn't know if he has the 2 bars,(because his inventory is huge), I can snoop around for you.

Hey James, Over the years I was very content restoring and driving Plymouths: my P10 wagon, P9 Coupe, P22 Concord wagon, P28 Suburban, and then in June 2021, a Bay Area friend calls me and says that an old buddy of his has "an old Hemi wagon" that he needs to sell due to a move. I rented a Uhaul and drove 4 hours up to Arnold with very little info, only knowing that it had sat in the woods since 1981. Turns out it is an unmolested 1954 Chrysler T&C wagon with the 195 hp 331 cu in hemi and 74,000 original miles. I couldn't get the motor to rotate, but the rest of the wagon was in remarkable shape- virtually no rust, some deteriorated wood slats, but nothing that I couldn't fix. We agree on $800, with the caveat that if I could get the motor to turn over, I would send him an additional $200. (which I did.) Once I got it home, I really started to dig the styling, quality etc, and now my plan is for it to be my next resto (after the '52 Suburban I'm currently working on). THEN, a running and driving "54 Chrysler withe the 235hp hemi came up on Marketplace in a nearby town for a mere $1,800 (it's only money) which I snatched up, as it was the unloved, 4dr Deluxe, which meant it had the upgraded 235 hp hemi. (It's a sickness, I know!) My point in this rambling is you never know what's going to tickle your fancy and you should go for it, although living in the City, I would guess that you probably don't have alot of extra storage space. If you take the plunge, regarding parts, I found a local vintage auto parts guy- Steve Rotholz -Globe Auto Parts. He is located in Selma CA. He loves NOS and stock parts and probably has 6,000 items at his warehouse. His phone is (559) 352-1407. Leave a message if you call. His eBay name is forthebeachonly. Globe Auto Parts I was able to find quite a few Chrysler SS trim pieces, and a '54 steering wheel with almost no cracks for $50. Good luck and keep us posted.

Money saving strategy, no doubt, thanks!

In the 2020 "Old Cars Collector Car Price Guide" a '51-52 Chrysler New Yorker 2dr HT lists for $18,200 in #2 Condition and $26,000 in #1 condition. Granted some prices have increased a bit since 2020, but their asking price is almost DOUBLE what the car has historically sold for. As I tell my kids and grandkids - "everything is negotiable". Good luck!

I always enjoy it when our rides get media attention. The hood lip had what looked like embossed letters. I have a '51 and '52 Suburban (both in need of restoration) and the hood letters are plastic, physical letters. Was that a difference between models or years?

Also this one: Raleigh Classic There's a nice P10 vert, but I'm watching the yellow and green '54 Chrysler T&C, (mine's below in blue and gray) Same as mine only unrestored, drivable and in great shape! I'm guessing it will go for $30k.

Sweet! What's the hp?

Silence is golden!

You can see the knob layout in the b&w pic. The heat controls were an add-on that I installed, and were considered "available a a low extra cost", otherwise if your car came equipped with a heater, you adjusted the heat through louvers and knobs on the unit itself, which was usually suspended under the dash.

Mine is L-R Headlights, Throttle, then Choke.

News to me as the popular mod are K&Ns. What would you use?

Wow, I never thought that the Crosleys might be the culprit! I will check out the vacuum issue, thanks!

Yes, they are synced with the same air flow using a gauge.

Engine has 5,000 miles since install. Probably 10-12K miles before that. How does changing the gap change performance?

Pulled the plugs and they all looked the same- like this The gaps were around .028" so I re-gapped them at .035" according to the manual. What can you plug-experts tell from the look of the plug? They are Autolite 306s.

Searched but couldn't find your exact post. What was the title?

Because they aren't progressive, they both contribute equally to the fuel supply, correct? If I re-jetted them both to a smaller diameter, wouldn't that potentially solve the problem? How do others with dual B&Bs do it?

I've been driving my '40 Plymouth wagon for a few years now (P20 218 with the dual carb setup) and although I have plenty of power, there's always been a hint of unburned fuel that wafts into the cabin. I'm running 2-Carter B&Bs (D6A2 1939-'41) carbs that were rebuilt by a reputable shop when I did the resto in 2015. They both are balanced using an airflow gauge. I'm using George Asche's linkage setup, dual intake and exhaust and a couple of modified Crosley oil-bath air cleaners. Stock fuel pump. Checking the specs for the carbs, I calculated each carb would need approx 250 as the recommended cfm, Carburetor CFM Calculator. It seems that each carb is providing that amount- so if true, wouldn't reducing the size of the main jets help the problem?

Wow, a-lot of different products for the car owner. I wonder how many of them we would consider toxic today? Maybe the tar and road oil remover?

It's been a while since I installed the radio- I believe both the 602 and 802 models are dimensionally the same, just different features. I also think that radios were still an accessory that you ordered in 1940. The P9 (RoadKing) is shown below as a radio delete in the brochure. The the other brochure shows the correct P10 Plymouth Deluxe 1940 radio and buttons with inserted paper call letters, etc. In 1940 and 1941 the radios were vertically mounted. Not sure when they went horizontal. Hope that helps. Also check out this link for more info... The Old Car Manual Project - 1940 Plymouth

The first pic is from a 1940 P9- the speaker was mounted under the dash. The others are from my 1940 P10 wagon. Original 6 volt Mopar 600 restored to stock. New speaker is behind the grill.

"Our carburetor is a goood choice for you."