Bob Riding

Hey Joe. I thought so too until I saw the original owner's manual - the woodies only had the center grease caps- no need to "fancy" things up with extra flash like a hubcap, after all it's a utilitarian vehicle meant for work- not a soccer mom wagon!! My friend wants to keep it stock.

My buddy and I have been working on getting his Peugeot woodie ready for the National Woodie Club event being held this year in July in Santa Barbara. I would be driving my Plymouth woodie to the event, but I will be trailering his wagon, which has never been shown before. The 1948 Peugeot 202 U (Utility) was directly copied from the 1934 Airflow. Peugeot engineers visited Chrysler's engineering team in 1934 to get permission and design ideas. As you can see, they saved $ by putting the headlights behind the grill! As far as we know, my friend's wagon is the only one of it's kind in the US. And you thought finding Plymouth parts was hard!

This part: "We used to say it needs an Italian tune up. Make suree your choke is fully open, at high idle pour about 1 quarter can of Berrymans carb cleaner slowly down the carb, pour about half of whats left in the can into the gaa tank. Now drive out to the country roads then drive the wheels off it till you run about about a quarter tank through it. 60 to70 miles or so. Get every thing g nice and warm then let her eat. In the words of Enzo Ferrari, "Brakes? We don't need brakes! They only slow you down!" Make sure you use all the carb circuits, idle, acc pump, climb so long hills to get the step up valve gets some work. Speaking of the step up, if it's not working correctly it might be stuck open, which will cause wet exhaust, black smoke, lousy fuel milage and fouled plugs. What do your sparkplug look like?"

Great job! What do the hubcaps have on them- Plymouth lettering or the ship? I found out the hard way that the Chrysler wheels were different when I went to pick up my '54 Town and Country up in the mountains and the Plymouth wheels I brought with me didn't fit. Center hole and stud spacing was different too. The PO had to use his skip loader to get it on my trailer, as it had been sitting for 35 years with four flats.

Here's some info from "The Dodge Story" by Thomas Mc Pherson. You might need a P15 Plymouth wiring diagram.🙃

No tailpipe sniffer, or vacuum gauges. Electrical only-

Good question. What would be the best way to find out? I do have this beast that I've been wanting to play with...

No, not the 70's Doobie Bros song -the stuff coming out of my tailpipe on the '40 wagon. I know why- It know doubt ran rich as I over carbed it with 2 Carters for 5 years. Now I've switched to Langdon's Weber 32/36 clone and it runs pretty good, except every time I start it up I get sooty water out the exhaust from carbon buildup. I've taken it out and "opened it up" - full throttle, a number of times- but still have the black stuff (exhaust is clean, light gray). Any home remedies that proved effective? I've heard spray water into the carb, Seafoam, etc.

I've been doing odd jobs while I wait for electrical components to arrive to finish the dash. I found this anomaly between firewall tags on my P22 project wagon (a 1952, assembled in San Leandro, based on the plate on the left front door post) and my parts wagon which I thought was a P22, but turns out it is a 1950 P19 according to the post tag. The front clip/hood is definitely a '51-52, so maybe it was in an accident and a front clip switch was made? Are they even interchangeable? The funny thing is, Plymouth continued using the '49 rear fenders on the '50 Suburbans, which this wagon doesn't have. Could the Owner's manuals be wrong on the serial numbers? It was within a few hundred of the year change. The silver tag below is from the supposed P19.

I forgot to mention that 277 volts is a common voltage for commercial lighting circuits.

The 120 or 277 volts is based on which electrical system you have. Not sure if the lumen output changes with voltage, but it's unlikely. You don't have a choice- you either have 120 or 277, but you can't switch between. Since it's rated at 150 watts and volts X amps = watts, I wouldn't think there would be a lumen change. My thought is that if you picked a different color temperature, say 3,500k instead of 6k, you might get more or less light, based on the efficiency of the LED itself, and that's what the label is reflecting.

Agree- pot metal. I had mine powdered coated to match the dash and the coaters confirmed it.

Looking good! Here's an appropriate poster for your wall.

As promised: Rack and Pinon thread

Don't you mean sleigh?😜

Check out Mark's video series. His is a '41, but it might help you. 1941 Plymouth Resto, #13

Here are some pics from my '40 wagon using the ECI kit. It has always worked well and was straightforward to install.

Here's the '47 section from "The Standard Catalog of Chrysler".

Another excellent vendor is Restoration Supply. You can download their catalog. They carry stuff that nobody else has.

Hey Frank- Restoration Specialties and Supply was my go-to vendor when I did my '40 wagon. They have an amazing variety of what they call "window channels". Good quality stuff. Have fun choosing!

Looks great, thanks!

Thanks for the step by step - I followed your lead and also bought a 12 volt motor. My original wire wound resisters look OK- would you replace them with NOS (which are available) just to be safe?

Funny- your dash is (of course) a reversed layout from my D14 coupe.😜 What about your defroster speed switch and heater fan switch? They both have the resistance elements which kinda spooks me.

What about these guys? Heater fan switch on the left and defroster speed switch on the right, both with ceramic heat sinks. Would 12 volts cause less heat, due to halved current? The heater motor itself will be 12 volts.

Good call. That checks out- it's a 30amp breaker. I wonder if you can reset it if it trips?