JerseyHarold

Johnny, Thanks for sharing. I've never seen this publication and it has a lot of valuable information. I saved it to my desktop for easy reference. Harold

Excellent!! Making good memories for kids is what it's all about.

Another idea is to break the porcelain off a spark plug, weld a quick-connect to it, then find which cylinders have closed valves and apply air pressure through the modified spark plug. This method is used to replace valve stem seals on OHV engines without pulling the head. The downside is that you'd be stressing the head unevenly with only one or two cylinders pressurized, but it might be worth a shot if all else fails. Harold

Any locksmith should be able to either pick your existing cylinder to the 'on' position so the pin can be depressed without damaging the lock, or make a key to fit the exisiting lock by a process called 'impresssioning'. I'd opt for impressioning because this way you have the same key to fit both the doors and ignition as original. You may have to search for a competent locksmith depending on where you live. Some of the newer shops may not have these skills. You might want to ask at your local police department to see who they know in your area.

Try Fastenal (www.fastenal.com). They have stores all over the country and a huge selection of screw sizes.

Second series '49

My son and I went out after dinner tonight and dropped in the Sam's Club battery that we bought earlier this summer. I demonstrated what it's like to shift a three-on-the-tree while making appropriate vrrooom-ing noises for the different gears. Then I got the key (had to dig for it) and tried turning the ignition. Nothing. I tried the lights and they came on, so I tapped the starter relay with a small hammer. Stilll nothing when I turned the key, so I got a jumper wire and went from the battery to the small terminal on the relay, and it cranked itself over! To say that I'm very pleased is an understatement. There is still a long way to before we get it running (including finding out why there was no juice to the relay...it was working fine years ago) but at least we have an engine that turns.

Ed, I think I'm going to pull the fuel sender and climb in the trunk with a flashlight to see what's in the tank. The original sender disintegrated when I pulled the tank to send it to Gas Tank Renu. The one I have in there now was bought online so I don't know if it works either. My main fear is that the engine is stuck, so I want to bump it once with the starter to make sure it still turns. I've bad experiences with stuck Plymouth engines in the past. BTW, I discovered that tuna can lids are the same size as the sender hole...I had two of them in there together (for thickness) years ago to seal the opening temporarily.

Just before dark, my son and I pulled the plugs and shot some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders. I had him make cardboard tags to number the plug wires, then I did the first cylinder to show him what to do. He's happy to be puttering with the car, which is probably the most important by-product of this whole adventure.

I'm planning to drain whatever gas/goo that's in the tank out one way or another. The tank was redone and sealed by Gas Tank Renu in the 1990's and has had maybe 5 gallons total in it since then. Right now I think it has about 2 gallons. The tank was really porous and weak before Gas Tank Renu fixed it, and I'm concerned about how strong the area around the plug is. I'm thinking about pulling out the sending unit and sucking the gas out through that opening so I don't disturb the drain plug.

Ed, Negatory on the fuel stabilizer. it would have been a good idea to throw some in. Woody49, I rebuilt the entire brake system soup to nuts in the late 1990's and then the car just sat. I never got a firm, high pedal, which bothered me. I learned later from this forum that brake-shoe links could have slots that were too deep to allow the shoes to push firmly on the drums. I'm fairly certain I have the link issue, because I recall using old and new links when i did the brakes. I'm hoping it will take minimal work to get the brakes going again.

Congrats on the new addition. You've got the makings of a great pit crew!

Of course not...that would be too easy:D With both kids growing up we were constantly running around (still are, even with our older one away at college) and there was always something more urgent to do. I did a lot of mechanical work on the Cambridge years ago, and it's the closest to operable of my 3 old Plymouths. I'm hoping that once I get this one going, I'll get charged-up to do the other two. Plus, my son is 17 and is interested in learning, so that helps too.

My son and I want to get my '52 Cambridge running after 10 years of sitting in the garage. Before I laid it up, I had the gas tank done by Gas Tank Renu, put in all new fuel lines and pump, and rebuilt the carb. For all intents, a new fuel system. I had the engine running several times after doing the work so I know it worked. I think there was about 2 gallons of gas in the tank. My question: Should I just add gas to the tank to dilute whatever is in there, pull off the hose to the fuel pump and run a hose from a can, or is there something else to do to get fuel to the engine? This, of course, assumes that the motor still spins. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks! Harold

The studs broke off the 'Cranbrook' nameplates on my car years ago, and I used 3M side-molding tape to reattach them. Has held fine for many years, and should work for your dash trim as well.

Just saw this.... http://forums.aaca.org/f119/1948-plymouth-bumpers-trim-speedo-288136.html Might be worth a look. Harold

I don't know if this applies to export vehicles, but 1953-up ignition switches interchange with 1951-52 switches and they don't have the armored cable, just regular wire connections. I did this on my '52 Plymouth and it works fine.

I put a '57 engine in my '52, and it went right in. The motor was in a '39 Dodge before I bought it, so some parts may have been swapped out along the line before I got it.

I do tech support for an HVAC Manufacturer (Haier). Sizing the unit has nothing to do with SEER. It's strictly a capacity issue. Personally, I'd go for the highest SEER you can afford, using R410A refrigerant. Utility costs will only go up in the future. Years ago, we installed 13 SEER equipment in our home because the builder wanted to put in 10 SEER at an inflated price, so I wouldn't get it from him. We keep our house cooler, and pay less in electricity, than our neighbors in the development who bought the builder's system. Depending on your needs, one of the new multi-zone mini-split units may work for you. Some use variable-speed compressors and fan motors for greater economy. Mitsubishi and others make them. You get one condensing unit outdoors, which is piped to evaporator units located in different parts of the house. You don't need to run ductwork, which is a big cost savings. These systems are very popular in Asia and Europe. I agree that the 95% furnace is a better deal. I'd also make sure to get the equipment from a reputable source to prevent warranty hassles in the future. Many manufacturers (Goodman, for one)will not warranty products sold online because there are places selling 'seconds' and other damaged goods and passing them off as first quality.

It's certainly a possibility. He put a little more than 1000 miles on it since I sold it, and it was running very well at that time. My understanding is that it was last registered in 1994, and I sold it in 1989. The car was stored indoors at one of his buildings for most of the time.

Reposted. Here's the link: http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/1911287066.html

Hail dents are just another flavor of patina. I'd leave them in.

I sold this car in the late 1980's and now it's for sale again. After a lot of soul-searching, I've decided to pass on it due to too many other committments. The car looks pretty much exactly like it did when I sold it....a tribute to my half-a** bodywork (which may have been better than I thought..is there a 3/4-a**?) and Maaco. The seller will take any offer to get it out. There are papers with the car so DMV shouldn't be a problem. Call fast because the next stop may be the junk yard! If anyone here buys it, contact me offline for history, photos, etc. Thanks! Harold http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/1902450639.html

Looks to me like second-series 1949 and early 1950.

Maybe you had winter gas in the car and the weather got too warm for the engine to run right with it.