Vin's 49 Plymouth

I think this is your glass. it would be hard to cut the rear window. Welcome to the forum. https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/item/dodge-glass/1951-1952-dodge-2-door-hardtop/lid=33919581

Permatex Aviation form a gasket.............

Here it is in Big Daddy Don Garlits garage.

All this talk about lowering is rare for the forum. It makes me want to share what I did with my 49 P15C. I have 2 inch drop spindles, new detroit springs with one coil cut and the rear leaf's were re-arched. The car sat high when I got it now, a different story. Check out my albums in my profile! I hope all this info helps Richard and everyone else who is doing the same.

Delta cams is here in Tacoma, I had the full race grind done on my 218. I had it bored and I ported the intake ports. The machine shop balanced the motor down to 7 grams. Sounds like a muscle car, 50 more HP probably and tons more torque. My video of it at idle is on my profile page. I would have the block decked and head ground. But watch and measure for valve clearance.

Hi Carl and welcome to the best forum ever. I'm also a young member at 49?. You will find the right answers here, if you ask the right questions. As I always, check out my photos on my profile if you would like. These cars are fun stock or custom!! Welcome. -Vince

Hi Raz, I'm doing the same on my 49 P15C. The felt that goes inside the metal channel is one of the parts I haven't found, even on Mark's restoration videos on youtube dont match the ones for 46 thru 49. So, after trying a few different mopar ones from the 60's I found one that fits. You just have to cut it to length. CRL Flexible Flocked Rubber Glass Run Channel for 1960-1961 Valiant and Lancer - 96 in long - - Amazon.com There is a guide on the top of the channel that I need and can't find either. If your still in need of the info, I hope this helps. Here are Marks video's

Welcome, that's a nice looking ride. This is a very helpful and friendly group. I'm a custom car guy, but that baby I would it stock.

Yes, very knowledgeable folks here and love their stock 40's & 50's Mopar's. But don't speak much about hot rods and rats. I get a kick reading all the stories and experiences. Love these guys. ?

Scott, I started with the same mindset and seven years later I have something different. It's funny how thangs change so fast. You can see my project, which is the 4 door version of yours in my profile albums. I teach a fab class and I can see that you have some talent. Keep up the good work.

Hi Bob, It looks like a Stromberg with a punky base. Love the progress on the engine bay. Keep up the steady work. Looks great.

Thanks Joe & K, I installed the cable guide today. I also rolled the old girl outside today for some sun and fuel leak checks. I'm also in the middle of running a throttle cable. Mechanical linkage wouldn't work and running a cable to a pedal mounted on the center access panel has been a challenge. LazyK I will check the fit on the rod, Thank you.

Hello wonderful community, I have been installing the linkage for the manual trans and found some parts that I don't know where they go. This project was bought 7 years ago and had parts in boxes, and I know it hasn't been driven for over 35 years. It's a P15C that I've replaced and rebuilt everything as well as taken the body off the frame. And also done some mild hotrod modifications. If you would like to see some of the photos they are in my profile albums. I would also like to leave this topic open until the project is finished and give updates. Below are the parts in question & the current linkage installed. Oh and who likes my plate sign??? Thanks everyone! Vince McLellan

Marc, I think that info might be in here. Judging Guide (1).pdf

I have a 49 P15C, which is different. But I cut mine out and tacked this one in. The same might work for you. Street Rod Parts » Plymouth Trunk Floor Pan 1940-41 (streetrodhq.com) Also there is this company c2cfabrication.com You can look at my albums in my profile, there is some photos of the trunk replacement. Vince

I had the same problem with my hood. It's still not perfect. Mine doesn't have a support on the inside of the hood. I had to look in the maintenance/ service manual and loosen all four bolts that mount the hinge to the body. It was somewhat lined up after that. I had to climb in the engine compartment to tighten them while it was closed. Mine also had loose rivets or pins in the hinge. I put them on a 50 ton press in my classroom and drove them tight again. Just enough to have the hinge still move.

The cable goes thru the driver side inside the fender. It's a very small hole with a grommet.