_shel_ny

My parts book says it should be 6- 1/8" long. A true on vehicle measurement may be better. You can adjust the arm for a bit of error in length. My caliper reads a diameter of 0.16" Will need to be close to have the clips work properly, or get clips that fit the rod if you fab your own.

Sent you a PM. Notice should pop up at the top of the page.

To check the condition of those wires. On a dark night, take a spray bottle of water, and mist those well wires to see if there is any arcing when running. I suppose you could do the same thing during the day to see if it adversely affects the starting/running, but the nighttime light show can be impressive. TSC used to carry a set of plug wires that can be used as a replacement set.

post edited N/A as not same as '41 set up.

As plymouthy says............. follow the wires, but is you wire brush it down a little, the markings can be found on the mounting tabs. Red above--- hot to battery. Green pointing to ground. The wire that goes up through the hole in the end of the steering column. Blue to horn wire. Black to ignition

First that I remember was in 1966 when I turned 16 some of my driving with my learners permit driving was with my grandmothers Plymouth. A light blue 4 door. Think it was a '61 or '62. Took my road test in a '65 Dodge that I totaled in 1968. My first car (purchased in 1969 for around $300) was a '62 Plymouth that I bought where my brother lived in PA. Was in the Air Force stationed in NC, and made many trips to PA on weekends. I still remember one Sunday night when I was on the way back to NC. Driving along on 301 (sometimes drove I-95) late. Kicked it on up to 105 for a short spurt, then let it slow back down. Next thing I know, a car pulls up along side in the left lane. It was the police. I did not get a ticket. Had a Dodge van. '73 I think. Bought it in '76. It was a panel van. Cut some holes near the back for port hole windows. Put in a sun roof, button tufted foam walls/ceiling, put on some custom wheels, and wide tires. Got an Earl Scheib paint job, and drove it until 90-91 replacing the engine (slant 6) twice, then I signed it over to a guy for some drywall work done in my house. '50 New Yorker, and '51 Meadowbrook, but never had them on the road. Well the NY was, but just a quick unregistered drive late one evening. Last, the one I miss the most, was J. Edgar, my '48 Dodge bizzy coupe.

You would likely find that the ones you purchased are the same ones as the "chain store ones" with a middleman (to remove the packaging before shipping) in the process.

Speaking of cowl trim. I recently saw the left & right P15 cowl trim online for $99 and change. They were both battered pieces of crud. I'm not sure if the seller was using the price as a place saver to keep the listing active while dealing with something, or if they thought they had struck gold. I used to find better ones lying on the ground where they fell after the mounting clip rusted out:)

At the time of the photo, there was only a driver's side. I do not think that I had one on the passenger side, because as others have posted, this style of mirror mounted at that position is hard to use. My driving was limited, so this mirror along with a swapped out interior mirror worked well for my needs. Did not see a need to add the other mirror just to balance out the look. I did not prefer the high mounting. Functional up high on both sides, but just looked out of place to me. The interior mirror swap from a later Dodge. Do not have a photo of the view with the stock mirror, but the replacement gave me a nice field of view out the back window.

Had the clip on that used the set screw on my D-24 mounted just above the trim. Some mount them up high.

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it was not a trade? It was a "you can have them" ? , but I do understand, rules are rules

Only about 7 hours away from me. Have a truck to tow it. Temptations, temptations. Car, or wife? Car, or wife?

Looks like "for sale" to me. Sign just fell down as the masking tape adhesive holding it up gave out from a week in the sun. Replace the cowl trim piece, and the plastic in the hood ornament, and it's ready to roll. It's a "driver", not a "show" car. Not everyday that you can find patina like that. Strap will keep that hood from flying up at 90mph.

I would refrain from having any pressure testing done unless you are dealing with a shop that is familiar with these radiators. They could easily damage it. If you have an original set up in a '41 it should not be a pressurized system. Your 7lb cap is meaningless.

Hole may be hiding behind some door seal/moulding.

The set screw, and a little cover that may hide it. Some are slotted. Some take an allen wrench.

Yup, I did not check all the offerings, but have seen them from time to time. I see Mikey pops up 1st on one link. I have a new cylinder on the shelf in the garage:) I also have a lock assembly (no cylinder) that I have had for 12-13 years sitting somewhere. Had it since my days of pillaging sourcing at the old junk yard. It came from a P15, but takes an odd cylinder. Possibly a Hurd. All I know is that it is different. The auto parts store one is not going to have the vintage MoPar key, but some can live with just a Pentastar key. Even an eBay one for $290 does not even have a nice old MoPar key.

Can get at most any auto parts store. The 49 and up work just fine. They have the "start" , and accessory positions that would be unused in the 48 back, but work just fine. The cylinder positions would be the same as they are now. On. Off. Have put them in more than one older ignition switch body. I am talking just the tumbler (lock cylinder)here. Not the whole switch. Oh, you can also get one from the MoPar specialty guys. They will take it out of the original box, and double the price for you to get the "rare" part. Wait, I see the under $15 cylinder is offered on eBay for $95.

Some have used Terrill Machine in Texas for a rebuild shop. I would compare prices.

Did a bunch of that shifting 2nd to 3rd without the clutch with my D-24. Did it with some others in the past as well. Just have to get the engine speed right to not be embarrassed by grinding noises?

Towed my Dodge from Hornell. About 200 miles. Took the drive shaft loose at the rear. It was 4 bolts.

Great idea for those wishing to keep that heat shield there for when they go to a show. Keeps that original look.

1 at each corner of the transmission. Be sure that the gasket between the transmission, and bell housing is in place when putting the transmission back in. Gear lube will leak from the hole in the transmission if not installed. My original gasket had no hole at that spot, so I did not cut a hole in my new gasket at that point.

This may help, or not.