MBF

Merle, perhaps you were pushing down too far and the dogs were binding on the bracket under the nut, or not hard enough to get past the detents. Did you try counterclockwise? It shouldn't be that difficult to remove unless someone previous has cobbled stuff together. Glad you got the cab back on. Mike

I agree, or for a later model non pickup (rack or utility body). Boy, that pic is a sweet looking rack-looks like really sweet paint. Mike

I'm voting for keeping it original, and looking for something note quite as nice to start rodding. I realize however that it is yours, and to each their own, and it's your decision. Wish I had started with something that nice! Mike

I've still got the '53 Chevy 210 2 door that my parents bought new 2 weeks before I was born. Been sitting under cover for the last 30+ yrs-ran it all through college. Any day now, any day....... Mike

The ones I purchased from Roberts went on easily w/o tearing. I just used some armor all and my fingers to get them to slip over the pedals. Mike

To clarify. The 12V coils that I purchased from my local NAPA are designed for direct 12 v input w/o a resistor. I installed these 6 yrs ago and have not had any type of problem with the coils (in 36 plymouth and 52 1ton) or the points in either vehicle. I did however install a ballast resistor on the heater motors as they remain 6 volt. The fuel guage in the 52 is not hooked up as the sending unit is bad, but the one in the 36 will have an inline (not ballast) resistor installed as soon as I find a working guage. I bypassed the ampmeter in both vehicles as they are a potential source for failure if accessories are added. I installed a voltmeter in both vehicles, fused the brake and marker light circuits as well as the heater motors and changed all the bulbs. I'm happy with the conversion to the internally regulated Delco alternators. As far as the key switch goes, mine is the original 3 post. The accessory post is just a post to connect accessories to, but the switch is basically an on/off switch with only 2 positions-no accessory position. Mike

If you use a 12V coil, you won't need the resistor, but will still need to reverse the + and - wiring on the coil. Mike

when do you feel the vibration-is it just when the engine is running, or only when the vehicle is in gear and moving? Could be a lot of things but first it has to be narrowed down to the source. Mike

Any day now, any day. Going to 3 cents is a 50% increase-not sure what I know is worth that. Mike

You're definately going to need the resistor for the fuel guage-been there done that-it doesn't like 12 volts. I'd also put a ballast resistor on the heater motor. I'd also go with an internally regulated alternator (that's what I did w my 52 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth) makes things a lot easier and eliminates the points type regulator. Just my 2 cents Mike

There are interesting discussions on theses bypass filters. I believe VINTAGE TRUCKS had an article in one of their summer issues for '06. Basically I think it said that if the road draft tube was updated to a PVC system and the inside of the engine was clean-that the advantages of this bypass filter were negligible. They even recommended removing them. I'll see if I can find that article. I'm thinking of taking the one off my '52 after dropping the pan to see how the inside of the engine looks. Mike

Yup-I don't like to be the hoser or the hosee. Some of these guys think this stuff is gold. Thanks Barrett Jackson

I always enjoy taking my 1 ton on a trip up through the mountains! Sorry-Mike

Is that as far South as you got on the female? A picture is worth a 1000 words! Mike

I got mine from Roberts-I think you buy it by the foot. They also have the rubber bumpers that go inside the door glass. Worked out well-I'm pretty sure they're both in the catalog. Mike

I'm with Dutch on this-he and I have spoken together about this before. These vehicles were designed to run 40-50 mph. Anything over that and to me you're out of brakes and steering. I'll be with Dutch on the backroads with the bugs on my back window instead of the windshield. Life was better than-I'm for slowing down and enjoying the ride. If all goes well I'm planning on taking mine down to Macungie next year on the back roads from the Hudson Valley. I used to have this dog that loved to ride in my PH. I'd take her to the farm road that runs through our property and let her loose-she'd take off like a bat outa h3ll and it'd take me a while to catch her from a standing stop. About 1/4 mile up the dirt road she was ready to climb up in the cab and ride. Mike

Never heard of that but I'll have to look at mine. Last year this time I replaced my radiator because the original had the same bracket problem, and was starting to leak around the neck. I'll check my parts truck. Something unrelated but still PH is that there are 2 different type of front fender brackets (supports the front of the fenders and front cowl/grill). It looks like the ones on my '52 parts truck are much more substantially made than the ones on my '49. Could this throughbolt also be a later update to the PH design? Mike

Good one! I remember seeing this for sale someplace before-maybe in the ATHS Wheels of Time. Very expensive as I recall-that would present additional problems explaining it to the little woman! Mike:D

Like Don says you're going to have to be very careful that you don't get the top tank too hot or you'll unseal it from the core and have leaks. If you're going to do it yourself, I'd fill the rad w water to a level just below where you're going to be reattaching the bracket (I think it attaches to just the top tank if memory serves me correctly) Be sure everything is very clean and the surfaces are roughed up to give the solder something to bind to, and watch the heat-you may want to have a damp rag to use as a heat sink if you get it too hot. I'd concentrate the heat on the bracket instead of the radiator to minimize damage to the radiator. I've had odd radiators ruined by reputable radiator shops that were in a hurry-nice incentive-I ruined it but I can get you a brand new one! I'd give it a shot myself. Good luck if you decide to tackle it-let us know how you make out. Mike

I used an 8 volt in my 36 Plymouth for about 6 mos. The voltage reg has to be adjusted to compensate for the additional voltage requirements for the 8v batt. It does aid in starting, and makes the lights brighter, but I ended up converting both the Plymouth and my '52 PH 1 ton to 12V. I like the convenience of buying 12 volt bulbs, the 6 or 8 volt batteries weren't lasting longer than a year before they pooped out.

ok-that explains the MoPAR issue, what about Peterbilt?

Yes it is! Mike

I did mine and left the brass showing (I think the brass center was originally painted black? before I stripped them on a soft wire wheel) and painted the letters. I was going to clean them up and repaint the black center, but I liked the look of the brass so I lef them that way. They were done quite a while ago. Mike

The one on my Dad's 35 Chrysler has a wire going to it to heat up the spring which mechanically opens the choke. It doesn't rely solely on manifold heat. I'm not sure if it has power to it all the time or if when the choke is opened it opens a circuit inside the stove body (I think it must). My '78 Dodge p'up w the /6 has the same arrangement with a resistor in the circuit. Mike

A simple test for a generator-it should run like an electic motor if you hook it up to a battery directly. If it runs, it'll charge-those old units are pretty tough. That's why the Ford Model A's had a cutout on them instead to prevent them from running when the key was turned off. Mike