MBF

A simple test for a generator-it should run like an electic motor if you hook it up to a battery directly. If it runs, it'll charge-those old units are pretty tough. That's why the Ford Model A's had a cutout on them instead to prevent them from running when the key was turned off. Mike

If you're not concerned about originality you could replace the igition switch w one that has a start position and use that just to energize the alt. Depending on how far along with the conversion you are you may be better off going to a GM internally regulated alternator. That's what I used on my 52 1 ton and 36 Plymouth. Mike

Jim-thanks for the OEM p/n's. I'm going to give them to our local NAPA guy-they have a counter guy that is worth waiting in line for! I'll let you know how I make out and share the info in case someone else needs the same info. Thanks again-Mike

Thanks-the autozone p/n is for a rebuild kit-I'm looking for the entire cylinder asm. I'm trying to avoid going to Roberts based on problems that I've had with some of their other items fitting correctly. NAPAONLINE doesn't go back that far. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks-Mike

These are single wheel cylinders for both the front and rear, I believe that one of them (front or rear-heck maybe both) are stepped. These are for a '36 Plymouth 4 door sedan. Thanks-Mike F.

I made my own, and where I couldn't match the factory colors I made notes of the changes in the wiring diagram of my service manual. Its not perfect, or quite as neat as one of the $650 harnesses, but it works, eliminates the fire hazard of the old cloth covered wires that in my case were bare in some places. Did it 1 wire at a time, and since I had previously converted the truck to 12v I was able to use slightly lighter guage wiring.(Doubling the voltage cuts the amperage by half!) Take your time, and if you do like I did-put some fuses in anthing other than the headlight circuits (that has a breaker attached to the switch). I also bypassed the ammeter and installed:rolleyes: a voltmeter. since I now have a fair amount of lights on the rack body, added a heater, and radio, and will be adding some other acc's too. Mike

Sorry if this is a duplicate post-I don't think the previous one updated the server. I'm looking for the NAPA p/n's for the front wheel cyls for a '36 Plymouth sedan. Thanks-Mike F:confused:

I have 52 fenders on my 49 ton-I think all of the smaller trucks are interchangable, but I believe there is a difference in the hoods for the 48-50, and 51-53 PH's. The later doors also have a shorter fender crease, but will still fit the cabs. Mike

Does anyone have either NAPA's or Autozone's p/n's for the front wheel cylinders for a '36 Plymouth sedan? Please pm me if you have this info-thanks in advance. Mike

I was told by a glass guy that glass gets brittle as it ages-so I don't know if they could be ground to fit or not. I may have a fogged sample that I could trace and mail to you-its the one I used for a pattern. The flat glass is cheap-I think I paid $25.00 for both halves about 6 yrs ago and the guy installed it for me! Let me know and I'll see what I can find over the weekend if you're still in need. Mike

Kinda looks familiar...

The Astro is unibody with the exception of the front clip. Mike

I thought all of these flathead sixes except those at the end of the run were non pressurized. I'm running a non pressurizied cap on my 52 1ton and my 36 plymouth. Wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong! Mike

I've never seen that, but if they're NOS and your mechanic (who sounds like you have a lot of trust in) says they're good to go-I'd take his advise. Experience is the best teacher. Good luck. Mike

I've got a powered Milwaukee seat grinder that uses a heavy duty drill like powerhead to drive angled stones to grind valve seats. I've used it many times on smaller engines, and once on a flathead 6. There is a tool to shape the various stones to make sure the seat angle is consistent and correct-and this has to be done periodically while grinding the seat. With the other tool, the valve is mounted in a jig and while being manually spun with a crank (obviously removed from the head) a cutting stone is moved across the face at a preset angle to shape the valve face to match that of the seat. After these operations, the valve is then lapped in with either a dowel, or the crank type tool in your photo using a grinding compound. I think these tools were designed for smaller engines, but with patience can be used to do multiple cylinder engines. Mike

That tool you're talking about is to grind the valve seats and relies on the valve guides being true as the mandrel fits down in the guide to keep the grinding stone perpendicular to the head surface. The valves are removed (can be done w the manifold still on) and ground on valve grinder to match the angle(s) of the valve seat, and then lapped in prior to reinstalling the springs. Mike

Dutch-are you taking the PH to the show at the Mill's estate tomorrow? I'm heading up with my truck mid morning. Hope to see you there. Mike

Delaware-Maryland? Let me see if a pilot house leaves the Hudson Valley traveling at 40 mph..... Should be there by February! Mike

I have this same thing with my '36 Plymouth. I think the plastic is porous due to age and wicking in moisture which makes the surface sticky-I was thinking of clearcoating it to seal it up. Mike

Looks like the rectangular holes are for the speednuts to mount the tranny cover-either that or you have rust mites using straighedges to eat. Mike

Dutch-count me in - our show next year at the fairgrounds is on Father's Day weekend which is the same weekend as Macungie! Since I've got to be down there to help w the show Thu-Sat, I'm planning on coming home Sat night to get a good turnout for Sunday @ Rhinebeck. It'd be great if we had a PH row for our show-and next year is going to be huge-the Antique Motorcycle Club is having their national show along w the folks from Century Museum, and the Mid Hudson Chapter of the Antique Truck Club of America. Mark your calendars! Mike

Sounds like the needle valve is stuck. If I remember correctly-this is in the front fitting where the gas line goes to the carb. If it is the one with the rubber seat-the seat may be shot and not allowing it to close off the flow of gas to the bowl. This may be the same type needle valve and seat assembly used on later slant 6 carbs with the single barrel carter on them. You may get lucky by just cleaning any crud thats on the body of the triangular portion of the valve, and cleaning out the seat. Good luck. Mike

On my 1 ton the first time I took it off I was able to take a sharp chisel to and carefully work along the enge to get it to move. Once it moved I used a pair of slipjoint pliers.. While it was off before I painted it I filed out the minor chisel mark I left, cleaned up the threads and then put a light coat of neverseize on the inner portion of the threads. I've had it off a couple of times since and just use a large slipjoint pliers with a rag over the teeth so I don't mess up my paint. Mike

I would think you could get your steel shoes relined for in the neighborhood of $20 a piece. Make sure you're wearing a respirator when working with the old shoes-I even soak down the shoes and backing plate with brakeclean or water to keep the asbestos dust from flying around and breathing it in. Nasty stuff. The newer lining materials aren't allowed to use asbestos based materials. Mike

If you can get under the driver's side maybe you can sneak up through the battery box and try to hook the inner handle with a coat hanger/hook to unlock it. Either that its a locksmith or a broken window. Mike