chucky07

DEBT? If you're talking about the heater I bought from you a year ago..for 200 dollars..well I paid that before you shipped it to me.....don't you remember? why do you keep emailing me ...and harassing me over this? I have bought several parts from several people here and have paid everyone as I did you. I have sold my truck and an now simply trying to recoup some of the thousands I spent on parts. If you really have forgot the paymet I sent you over a year ago I am sorry but please this is enough.

Hey guys...well i cleaned out garage and found another box of good Pilothouse Parts..that were off my 52 b3b...check out my aucitons and msg me if you need any other info. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330283919024&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem= Lots of heater parts..and misc. parts...everything in good shape.. Click on my other auctions for the rest.. thanks. Kevin

will a vacum leake say the carb base gasket for instance cause it to run terribly..no real power? and how bad would the leak have to be to cause such rough running?

checkd timing..good..it starts with one push of starter button but runs very rough..barely idles..and when i give gas it doesnt rev up just sputters...i tried diff carb..same thing..Since it did this just all of a sudden..after i parked it then ran this way..i'm wondering if the coil went bad? (new coil)..

thanks reg..well been working on it..put new points and condensor..and chcked wires in dist..all good no shorts...still runs rough and cuts out when i give gas..just now it backfired and a white cloud came out of carb....It's so strange cuz it was running good...parked it..next day this terrible running business..can't figure it out..have gas to carb..spark from dist... i'll check head bolts for proper torq...any other ideas before i go crzy.? i already lowered the selling price becuase of this.. thx

Can anyone tell me how the fluid drive badges on the sides of my hood are suppose to be painted..? Did they come with the letters in red and the background the color of the truck? anybody have a pic maybe? thx

they should warranty there work and fix it for you..but I know what you mean..i use to have shops work on my vehicles..but I find working on them myself saves money..and i'll know it's right...

well i order my master cylinder from NAPA on sunday..will be here tuesday morning..I figured i better not risk rebuilding my old one..besides I want whoever buys it to have good brakes..Gona flush old out of systemand just replace with Dot 3...i'm assuming that's whats in it now..wouldnt want to cause any leakes.

still trying to get brakes to work..and stay working...Okay determined for sure its not the line thats leaking afterall...I filled master cylinder and began bleeding brakes..The fluid is definately leaking from the rod that goes into the back of master cyliner (pedal pushes)...its leaking from that rubber boot thing all over...Does this mean it's a bad M/C? if so..is it a simple unbolt and bolt back on then bleed again? thank you for your patience..just dont like doing things 4 or 5 times to get them right... kevin

You guys are the greatest and thanks for answering all my questions over the year here..but my truck must go..financial crisis again... I'm going to list on ebay next week..just put it in trucks for sale..but didnt pop up for some reason...Anybody want more info and interested in my truck call me up 7603823832.. Have thousands invested and it's a solid 2 owner (california desert all its life) 52 B3B... Needs someone patient and willing to finish up..will be beautiful truck. thanks again Kevin

ok got it..the fuel line that goes directly into the pump that sits on the rail (braided steel) was bad...seems to have collapsed inside..couldnt tell till I removed..ONce I put on new Line...started right up....Sounded good (newly rebuilt) had 40 psi oil pressure..but the oil filter housing staring leaking so i shut it right off..I cant seem to get the lid to seal without leaking..there is a gasket on it and a gasket on the nut on top..but it just pours out..I'm wondering if I have the wrong oil filter? too tall maybe...will start researching this..Might have on the road by Haloween..hahaah thx

Well i took my four tube type 16" tires off my truck today while I"m waiting on a new fuel Pump (starting problem all along I guess..took your advice and tested and no fuel came out when pumping ) Anyhow...all 4 tires shops here said they would be dangerous with radials on them..I explained what you guys said..and how you ran em...but they are ignorant I guess... So..next question..what would you reccomend if I really want radials? Get New Rims? Is it easy to put lug studs in my brake drums so I can use aftermarket rims? Can I find rims made especially for radials the same size as I have now (650 16R)? just trying to figure out the best route to take.. thanks Oh..I was thinking about mounting the tires myself..but I dont have a tire machine..and it would probably be too hard to do the old fashioned way...

You use to be able to click on the DPETCA link above and it had the wiring schmatic but when I click it it doesn't take me there anymore... mayber there is a new address for it?

Ok..i got engine to tdc...my rotor is at the seven oclock position and ... when i take off dist cap and turn it until the points start to open I can't. There is not enough travel of the dist. co open points...they are dead in the middle of the flat part of lobe. I'm very confused now...Does this mean I am 180 deg. off? but how could I be if my rotor position is correct? and it does start for a brief min with starter fluid? and when i push thottle gas squirts in..and gas is getting to carb... I think it's a timing issue but I can't figure out what.. any ideas?

my rims are solid no lock ring..just 16" stock rims with baby moon hubcaps that say dodge....guess ill ask tire shop if they will mount radials on them