MBF

Ditto on the sun to soften it up. I had mine installed by the guy that cut the glass so if there were any problems they were his. Cost me $50 for both the 2 pcs of glass and to have it installed. I think the original or the better gaskets have a wider outside lip, but the one from Roberts is ok. MBF

Mine was a chocolate brown with a wrinkle finish on it. The original interior color was brown (seat, headliner, door panels). Since I changed the seat cover and other panels, i painted the heater black to match. Not sure if this was the way they did it back then or not. MBF

I believe that there is an adjusting screw someplace on the horn that is used to adjust tone and volume. Since you're now running at half the voltage-twice the amperage is required to make the horn blow-you may have to back off on the adjustment if there is one visible. If your horn has a removable cup on the rear of the trumpet bell-the adjustment may be under the cup. MBF

When I did mine-I removed the vent cover, cleaned out the groove really well-put cement in the groove and on the seal, and then used clothespins spaces about an inch apart to hold the seal in place while the adhesive dried. Good luck.

I ran mine up past the front end of the fender mounting bracket. The ones I got from Roberts were only about 1/2 the width of the originals.

Ditto on the quality of the shackles from Roberts-I trashed mine and puchased another set from NAPA. Sorry-but i don't have the p/n's but a good counterperson will be able to find them for you. MBF

i need to get the gas guage in my 36 plymouth repaired and converted to 12 volts-any ideas who does this type of repair / conversion? MBF

Has anyone swapped in a full floating rear to replace the 6 bolt 3/4 & 1 ton factory rear? What fit, and what needed to be done. Cruising at 42 mph tends to p1ZZ off the folks behind you! Mike

I'd try a piec of 1 x 2 with a flat washer on the top and bottom to prevent it from splitting during the move. That should get you in the ballpark. Mike

Just as an FYI-I have been told by 2 tire dealers not to put radials on the lock ring style Budd rims. They both told me that a radial tire wider than a 7:50-16 bias ply would be prone to walking off the rim, and it would also need a radial tube. They suggested finding 6 holes drop center rims if I wanted to run radials. I ended up finding 2 new bias ply 16's for the front last year-still have not found any of those 6 hole drop center 16" Budd rims-I don't think they're out there. Mike

I believe that a fully charged 6 volt battery should show about 7-7.5 volts on a volt meter. Starting out with 6.6v sounds like you've got a week cell or the battery is not fully charged. How long does it take to drop to 5.1 volts? I think a good rule of thumb is to have 1 cca per inch of cubic displacement of the engine. I've never had any luck with Tractor Supply or NAPA 6 volt batteries. Any wet cell battery starts to deteriorate as soon as the electrolyte is added to the cells. Another problem that could be causing the problem is whether or not the rebuilder seated the new brushes in the starter. Sometimes if these aren't seated during rebuild, it will take them awhile to seat themselved during use-in the meantime you've only got partial contact of the brush(es) on the comm. I converted my '36 Plymouth, and 52 Dodge to 12v. I got tired of replacing the 6 volt battery every year just after they went out of warranty. I also tried the 8 volt route for the Plymouth. I know that the 12v isn't original, but I like the reliability of the alternator. Just my 2 cents.

Can you post a pic of what the sytem looks like plumbing wise with the PCV system installed? I've been considering this for my '52 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth as I these don't get many miles on them, and getting rid of the condensation is important. Mike

Hi-I think its just a trim piece, not any type of a seal. I tried to modify some rubber fender welting that I had, but then the garnish pcs didn't fit properly-the welting was too thick. I went w/o it-just the windshield gasket and the mouldings. They must have not been too concerned with the longevity of these trucks (like they were supposed to last 40+ yrs) with the paper firelwall, interior, and cotton welting in a cab that leaked when new! Mike

Maybe they're leaking now due to the bores or shafts becoming slightly egg shaped. I think your going to have to determine how close the shafts come in their forward most position before you come up with a sealing method (possibly a thin o-ring, or partial gasket wedge between the face of the trans and the bell housing if this area on the trans is in fact blocked off by the bell housing). Just my 2 cents. MBF

You may want to check that you have a good body-chassis to engine ground. I converted my 52 to 12 volts a couple of years back-I don't remember if the old regulator was insulated from the cab or grounded to it-but I know on my big Ford that it has to be grounded. Intermittant electrical problems can drive you crazy as you probably already know. Are you experiencing any other electrial problems? MBF

Hey Dutch-our ATCA show is at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds on the 9th/10th of June-would love to see that there. Mike

Depending on how badly the old king pins have fallen in love with the axle eyes will determine the process. First you need to remove the lock pin that holds each kingpin into the axle eyes. From there it is a matter of driving them out so that you can install the new pins. I ended up taking my axle out and taking them to a shop that had to heat and press the old pins out. Hopefully your axle eyes are not worn oblong or that is another whole process to have them bored out and bushed. You won't know this until you have the old pins out, and test fit the new pins to the axle. They need to be snug. If the axle is ok when you purchase your kit-the spindle bushings will need to be pressed into the spindles and then reamed (probably by the same machine shop that pressed in the bushings) to fit the new pins. It's a pretty straightforward process. Good luck Mike

I've been asking the same question for awhile now. I have single pane doors on my truck, but 2 really solid vent pane doors from CA. From what I see-there is going to be some hardware swapping and maybe some fabrication too. The reason that I have started on the doors yet is I don't want to remove the hardware from the doors on the truck until I know how much work has to be done.

Once you have it cleaned up and working I believe that there is a small screw about 1/2" long near the cable input. If you take out that shafted screw there is a wick behind it. You may want to put some lightweight machine oil on the wick while you have the unit out. Mike

I think that's the horizontal fender filler along the back edge of the fender where it meets the cowl. For the vertical stuff-I couldn't find anything so I cut some rubber strips about 3/4 inch wide and rivets them to the edge of the fender. Not factory, but keeps the debris out of the door opening for the door stop. Mike

Rust and real bullet holes often look better than bad body work. Mike

I bought 1 from Roberts a few years back and it fit fine. Mike

I bought a 4 speed for my '52 1 ton to replace the floor shifted 3 speed. I was hoping it was going to be a bolt on with just a modification to the driveshaft. The bolt pattern is completely different and will require a different bell housing. I don't know if I'm going to continue with the swap or not. Mike

Bob: I think the factory 4 spd only gives you a 1:1 final drive out of the tranny just like the 3 spd. I may have a 4 spd to sell if you're interested-please email me. I'm located in NY state. Mike

You could have some slow valves that are starting to hang too. Try giving it a dose of Marvel Mystery oil down the throat of the carb with it revved slightly. Just some advice-don't do this near an open window, or inside a building.