MBF

I don't know what size socket fits the outer nut, but whatever it is I don't have one. I carefully use a prick punch and a small hammer to loosen the outer nuts. Once these are off, there is a lockring with holes in it that is slid off, and then you are at the inner nut that adjusts bearing preload. This you should be able to pry loose at (screwdriver or similar tool) as it shouldn't be on that tight. Mike

If it were me I'd look into having it repaired and lined. There are shops that do that. It may be expensive, but any used tank you find is going to be at least 49 years old unless you can come up with something NOS. Mine wasn't leaking, so I did the pour in lining trick a few years ago-I got the good stuff. Knock on wood, haven't had a problem with it. Mike

Nope-just used some armor all to help it slide into place. Mike

If you push in on the trim escutcheon behind the handle you'll see a round pin going through the handle. Push the pin out-remove the handle from the shaft and rotate it to the desired position and reverse the procedure to reinstall. Mike

They're not hog rings-those are like a heavy wire circular ring. I had the same problem with used clips. I went to an automotive upholstery shop and he had about 20 new ones that I was able to get. I think the problem is that the older ones lose their spring tension. Its also important how you wrap the material around the frame before you put the clips on. If there's too much material I think it opens up the clips when it stretches. Mike

If you have a store that specializes in fasteners you may find them or a workable replacement if you take your samples with you. I did like the others and harvested mine off a parts vehicle. You may also want to try automotive swap meets. Mike

Go to our website and you can see some pics from last year's show. Hope the weather is as good for this year as it was for last. Yes the Mack tour is worth the walk. There's a free air conditioned shuttle that runs from the show to the factory and back! http://www.antiquetruckclubofamerica.org/ Mike

When I did mine, I put the rear window in the rubber channel, then set the channel on the bottom window edge. I wrapped a string around the circumfrance of the outer channel and used it to walk the inner lip all the way around. Whatever you do-keep even pressure on the glass and push gently. Once the channel is fully installed you can thump the window from the outside with your fist (gently) to make sure the channel is fully seated in the cab. The beer is almost a required tool when doing this type of work-that way if you break the glass you don't get so upset! Mike

Todd-there's a mix from pickups to big rigs, the majority of the show is big stuff-nice big stuff. There definitely was a good turnout of smaller trucks there too (pickups, jeeps, scouts, etc). With fuel prices where they are this year that could change! In fact one of the ATCA members drove a pilothouse from either PA or NJ to Colorado Springs for the annual ATHS show last year! I'm taking my '78 Dodge 1/2 ton because the 52 isn't ready for the trip yet, and I've got to be there to work the show setup. As long as it's 25 years or older there shouldn't be a problem but I would suggest preregistering to avoid delays getting into the show with your truck if you're bringing one. There's an unloading area for you to use if you need it. PM me if you would like more info (mfowler53@hotmail.com). Mike Fowler

Todd-we'd love to have your truck at Macungie. You can obtain the registration form @ antiquetruckclubofamerica.org. Mike Fowler

I think a call to your weatherman telling him it has been Spring for a couple of weeks is in order. He doesn't seem to be getting it. Mike

Red-after thinking about this and mentioning it to my son-what we actually did was set the vent panel in place and install the shoulder bolts loosely. We then took some type of light weight and set it on top of the vent to seat the lower edge against the seal all the way around. (that gives you the pivoting adjustment) We then tightened up the pivot bolts and made the final adjustment on the actuating linkage to make it close tightly. Now the biggest problems I have with it are bugs coming in at night. I don't know why the PH didn't come equipped with the front facing screen like my '36 plymouth has. I'd imagine that if you had the vent open in a driving rain that it would act like a funnel for the water to get in the cab-but then why would you have the vent open in a rainstorm anyway! Mike

Rich-I didn't mean to imply that DOT5 shouldn't be used, all I was saying is that the 2 different types cannot be mixed. For a vehicle that sits alot the DOT5 may be a better alternative as it won't wick moisture like the DOT3 will. I'd probably convert my truck myself if I didn't have to go through the entire brake systems again. You do offer good advise on maintenance. I try to flush the systems on all 3 antique vehicles every couple of years. Same with the cooling systems. Amazing what accumulates in those systems over time. Mike

Those guages look great as does the rest of the truck. Please keep the pics coming. Mike

I think its the dissimilar metals at work that is actually causing the damage. You've got copper, brass, cast iron, steel, galvanized freeze plugs, etc. With this older stuff you really do need to change the coolant every 2-3 years to prevent corrosion. I know that the big trucks have a stick that they can use to check the ph of the coolant and adjust it accordingly. GM solved some of this problem when they went to aluminum radiators with the plastic tanks in the 80's, but the heater cores were still a problem.

I'd stay away from Bumper Boys. Have a friend that they redid a chome bumper for and it started peeling in less than two years-and it was a show vehicle stored inside.

RED48-when I did mine it was trial and error. Then I undid the actuating arm and adjusted the two pivots so that the lip on the vent contacted the seal evenly all the way around (front and back of vent). I then reattached the actuating arm-and adjusted the throw so that it pulled the vent plate lip down snugly into the seal. It doesn't leak, but my windshield gasket from ROBERTS does! Hope that helps. Mike

Hope I'm not sticking my nose where it doesn't belong-but if you've been running DOT3 in that system and put in DOT5 you may turn all of the rubber parts to mush and it will show up at the worst time. Have seen it happen many, many times on forklifts before we found out what was wrong. It wasn't until we got the manufacturer & factory lab involved that we found out that their initial recommendation that it was ok to mix the two types was wrong. They updated their processes to require the replacement of any rubber part that came into direct contact with the fluid if you were going to change fro DOT3 to DOT5 or vice versa. Mike

The one I got from Roberts 6 or 7 yrs ago fit pretty good. I put a bead of silicone sealant in the groove and used clothespins all the way around the circumfrance until it set up. Haven't had a problem with it. The pivots on teh vent have a lot of adjustment in them. If I remember correctly its a shoulder bolt (maybe on a concentric?) Mike

Was just skimming through fleabay and saw this. Current bid is $10 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Truck-IGNITION-SWITCH-W-KEY-1952-52-1951-51-1950_W0QQitemZ300212423730QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item300212423730

Does it run the way it is? It almost sounds like you ought to look at your points to see if they show continuity when closed, or look for an open between the switch and the coil to eliminate the switch as being the problem. I just went to a locksmith to have a copy of a key made for my 52's ignition switch to keep it original. If I remember correctly there are 4 posts on it. If the post to the ignition or coil doesn't have battery voltage on a consistant basis when the key is on, you should be able to move the coil wire to the accessory post in order to save the switch. You should be able to do this as long as you don't have a motor (wiper or heater fan) on that circuit. I did end up taking my headlight and panel light switches apart to clean the contacts and lube them in order to save their originality. Guess getting 50+ yrs of service isn't what they were designed for! Mike

I'm not sure, but I think the t-5 conversion uses the existing flywheel, clutch(?) and bellhousing-so the existing pedals are kept. The kit is an adapter to allow the t-5 to be bolted to the flathead's bell housing. You'll lose the driveshaft mounted e-brake, but you've already addressed that by switching the rear. Look for one that the drum parking brakes. You'll have to fabricate some type of cable linkage for them as I don't believe you can put a shaft mounted ebrake on the t-5 without alot of engineering. Mike

Ditto GB-thanks for confirming my thoughts. He should see the fuel guage move if that circuit is working. Mike

Yes-should pull out of the block with a little finesse and some persuation. I'd give it a shot of penetrating oil around the base to help it get loose. Mike

or a boat anchor