MBF

Someone (maybe Merle of Greybeard??) posted something awhile back about insulating sheets that they found at Lowes or Home Depot. If I recall it wasn't self adhesive, but was a lot cheaper than the dynamat-you just needed to use contact cement. Another alternative is the 1/4/; foam poster board glued to the inner sheet metal. I wouldn't use the spray stuff-it can make a mess and isn't fire retardant. Mike

You could try using an expoxy on the holes, and then clean up the outer surface and use a fiberglass patch on the front portion, or have it professionaly lined. Mike

Merle-my green truck originally had brown interior. I bought a black seat cover for my seat and after installing it decided that instead of having another seat cover made in brown to match the door panels, I'd redo the door panels in black leatherette to match the seat! I made the door panels myself using 1/4" foam and gluing the leatherette to it after wrapping it around the corners. I like the look of the black and green better than the brown and she goes with my "companion". Don't ask-she gets a lot of thumbs up at cruise-ins until people get up close. If I go somewhere w/o her now people ask me where she is. A trooper asked me one time if I did that so I could use the high occupancy lane. Yea-there are a lot of those up here in the country, and that's just what I'd want to do-be doing 45 in the city in a 56+ year old truck. Mike

My 49 is equipped as shown. The mast was broken off and I bought a replacment that clamped on the remaining stud at a swap meet for $2.00.

Sam I had the same problem when I replaced my manifold. I ground off the broken stud, center punched it, then the old drill and tap routine. While you've got it apart-you may want to replace the riser swivel pin, and spring if you can't get it loose w penetrating oil. Good luck. Mike

Hassle of changing gears-that's why I drive the truck! I have to admit though-one of these days when I'm older an automatic may be nice-but I don't think it'd be behind a flatty 6.

Pat-I'd put a ballast resistor in there. If you take the dist cap off, and put the coil wire (from center post in distributor)to ground you should be able to make the coil fire by opening and closing the points with a screwdriver. If you've got spark from the high voltage lead of the coil, when you put it back together if its in time you should have fire at the plugs. If you're running 12 volts for your test you may have to reverse the low votage wiring on your coil. Mike

Wow she's a beauty! I know what you mean about it being a cost of running. I just put a 72 Ford L800 on the road-5x2 full air brakes and geared low-getting 4-5 around town just joyriding. Was thinking of putting the 52 1ton on the back and taking it down to Macungie this June, but after seeing the mileage she's getting, and it isn't a whole lot faster than the Dodge, I'm thinking of driving the 52 down for the show. Picking my way along the back roads will be an adventure, and 45 is plenty fast for me. Do you go to any of the ATCA shows in CT? Mike

Wally-how big is your truck? I'm getting between 13-14 running locally with my '52 1 ton with 16" duals on the rear. Is yours bigger than a 1 ton? Mike

Yup-the phillips style head is what connects a short splash apron to the lower front fenders. This apron is in turn attached to the front of the running board. I like Gray Beard like the look and did the same with my rivets after welding in a piece to replace the rusted out portion (caused by the rivet design of course). Mike

I used JB WELD or some other 2 part expoxy on mine. Having the surfaces clean, and masking the areas next to the repair may save some finishing time by keeping the new material just where it is needed. I did mine in the truck as I couldn't come up with the proper puller at the time. I did a spare too in case this one doesn't hold up, but that is the 3 spoked V style for the horn ring-I kinda like the plain old 3 spoke with the large horn button. Keep us posted. Mike

Up north of here about 40 miles a guy has a huge PH 4 wheel drive dumptruck with a front and wing plow on it. I meant to stop and take pictures of it the last time I was up that way-it is a bear for sure. Mike

If you have the switch out of the dash-carefully bend the tabs on the cover of the switch (box portion) and remove the flat plate. Be careful as I think there are small springs in there that hold the sliding pheonolic plate against the contact tips. I cleaned up the contacts on the plate and the tips, used a little di-electric grease, and carefully put things back together about 10 yrs ago. Still works smoothly, and hasn't failed yet. Mike

Paul-the ATCA CT Yankee Chapter has their annual show the 2nd weekend in June at the Bethlehem Fairgrounds. I'd be up for bringing mine over from NYand can maybe convoy with Dutch and his 53 pickup. There's also another chapter show in Brooklyn, CT later in the season. Both are great shows-there were several PH's at the Brooklyn show a couple of years ago. Our chapter (Mid Hudson) will be having a show later in the summer (TBD). Mike

Wow talk about crazy laws-check this out from our local paper.... http://www.recordonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20081210/NEWS/812100326/-1/NEWS Sad part is our government probably funded a study for this! Yellow PH's are next.

Rem-welcome! Another guy in the Northeast-we got a movement started! Keep us posted on your progress-there's lots of good stuff here. MOPARS rule. mike

Merle that Dodge tank trailer has been at Macungie and it is nice. It looks like its posing next to the stone barn on Rt 100 heading into Macungie. Mike

Can't tell from the photo if the lens are amber or just yellowed from age. If they're amber, they may be an aftermarket foglight sold during the 70's and 80's. I had a pair-much more cosmetic than functional-poor reflector-too small a bulb. Mike

My dad (long retired from NY Telephone) had a pilot house line truck with a governor. NYT removed them as a safety issue because guys were complaining of near misses when trying to accellerate out of a tight situation.

Man I hope that got saved-what a find. You think some parts for the PH are hard to find-wait till you get to the rear driveline parts on that one! In any event that would be neat to have-guarantee you won't see another one on cruise night! Mike

I'm making a guess here from my own experience. I think the 48-50s are one design, and the 51-53's are another. I'm basing this on the changes in the dash, cowl, wiper location. I could be wrong-and it wouldn't be the first time (just ask my better half!) Having said that, my '49 one ton is registered as a '52 because that is the reg that it came with, but the parts from the later design are only the hood and front grill pieces that were swapped before I got it. Mike

I think the difference is in the box mounting ears where it bolts to the frame, and the shaft support bracket under the dash. I have a good tight box assembly from a 53 that I was going to put in my '49 cabbed truck but found the same thing as you just did. I have another one that I disassembled and am hoping the guts can be used to tighten up the one in the '49 but I haven't gotten that far yet. I think for about 250 you can have an old box rebuilt if you had a usable core. I want to try to do this myself-been through a similar drill with a radiator for an antique john deere li. Had a slight leak-reputable shop was told to just seal off the leaking tube-got a call 2 days later the radiator was all apart and they couldn't fix it-had to go find a core! Not taking the same chance with the only steering box I have that fits my truck. Mike

I had one of those in my '36 plymouth years ago, then went to an 8 volt, then decided to convert it to 12v w an alternator. the 6/12 is pricey, and the 6 volt bulbs were getting the same way. I was tired of replacing a 6 volt batt every year (car sits in the garage most of the time). Just found the correct bulbs so I can put my original headlight relectors back in and get rid of the sealed beam conversions. Did the same with my 52 1 ton a couple-3 yrs ago. If I had to do it over again, I'd go right to the 12V conversion-but that's me. Mike

Now that's talent-I don't care where yer from!

My BAD! I thought you were going to try to do a test run-sorry-didn't realize you were just checking compression! Wiring in the same though.