MBF

I pressed the ones out on the left rear of my 1 ton. I did them 2 at a time but I didn't need to separate the drum from the hub, but I imagine if they were all removed at the same time that the two pcs would separate. Good luck. Mike

Yes there is a bushing that goes in the front spring eye. It is a metal type knurled on the outside and if I remember correctly threaded on the inside. It's been awhile since I replaced mine. Mike

We learn by doing! Mike:)

Did you make sure both the exhaust and intake valves on the #1 cyl are both closed? If not you may be 360 out of time. #1 can only fire when both valves are closed. When you get TDC and install the dist-you can start at the nearest position of the rotor and proceed clockwise w 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order. Mike

I also believe that JC Whitney has a generic unit that will fit. Someone on here should know the ohm range that is needed so that you get the correct one. mike

What they said. Unless you changed transmissions w a different input shaft on the new one-sounds like a clutch alignment problem with the disc not being centered on the flywheel. It'll feel real good when she finally drops in and you can snug up the bolts. Mike

You could do it that way, or install a small fuse block and run a heavy lead up to it and power all your accessories on separate circuits from the fuseblock. I used the individual inline fuses for my heater and another for the directionals. The headlight switch (if if original) has a built in circuit breaker so no need to do anything with that circuit unless you're adding a "lot" of lights or a mega sound system. If you're going to keep it 6v to change from + to - ground you're going to have to repolarize (can't remember which) the generator or voltage regulator, switch your batt cables, and if you keep the ammeter switch the lead on that or it will read in reverse. If you leave it 6 you're also going to have to switch the coil leads (I think). I did a straight 6-12V conversion using an internally regulated Delco alternator. I switched the bulbs, put a ballast resistor in the circuit for the fan motor, swapped to a 12V coil. My gas guage doesn't work-but down the road when that is fixed that will need a resistor installed in the circuit before its hooked back up. Mike

Dennis-welcome! The Pilot House refers to the cab style used by Dodge for trucks manufactured between '48 and '53. The selling point was the large cab and great visibility-hence the pilot house name. I've seen this "pitting" problem on another Chrysler I own. It is most likely due to a leaky head gasket allowing coolant into the cylinder on a motor that has been sitting, or the vehicle sitting for a long period of time in a damp area with the intake valve open allowing it to wick in and hold moisture. Judging from the mileage in your note, I would tend to believe this truck has been sitting both prior to and after the engine swap. I would do the best inspection that you can through the spark plug hole (there are scopes available nowadays for this) but you're probably going to end up pulling the head to make the repairs anyway which is when you'll really be able to see what you've got and what needs to be done. You may have to sleeve that cylinder if the pitting is really bad. Hopefully he's talking about the old engine. At least its #1 so that makes it somewhat easier in the cabover. Good luck-Mike

Guys-thanks so much-I owe you both one! Merle-just sent you an email. Mike

If its running- I'd warm it up and then hit each nut with your favorite penetrant (you may have to do this a couple of times). Patience is probably going to be your best tool. If they're real bad-a heat wrench may be in order. When you do get it apart-I'd make sure to use neverseize on all the threaded fasteners, and brass nuts so the next time around it will be a piece of cake.

5.9 if you're going to be adding several lights I'd suggest bypassing your ammeter and installing a voltmeter. Chrysler ran everything through the ampmeter circuit which can be a weak link under excessive load. This setup was ok for headlight and brakelights, but if you start adding a heater motor, fan, lights, and electric wipers you may find yourself in the dark some night. I did this on both of the vehicles I converted to 12 volt-it was especially needed on my '52 1 ton rack body-I added a heater, and several body lights. Mike

Bob-would it be possible to ask you to take another picture of the tranny showing the entire front of the unit? I have one I'm trying to get put in my 52 1 ton, but the one I have is from a 54 flat 6. The top cover of the trans overhangs the front of the tranny 3/4 - 1 inch. I want to see if the one you have is the same way. Thanks-Mike F.

Wow-I wish they were available in the 70's when I was carrying a spare 12V batt to power my 8 track in my 53 Chevy-that would have been an easy solution. Mike

Having done the 6-12V conversion on 2 of my vehicles I can say that room for both units is going to be an issue as well as completely isolating the 2 systems. If you're content with the 6 volt system you have with your vehicle, but want to be a good samaritan-how about carrying a booster pack? I'm happy w the 12 V conversions I 've done and would definiately do it again. Mike

They'll all interchange, but the 48-50 have an angled crease that goes almost the full legnth of the door (follows the profile and contour of the front fender). On the 51-53 doors this crease only goes partially across the door.

That panel truck will teach you a thing or two! Mike

Merle-the switches do go bad. I've replaced the one in my '36 plymouth, and 52 1 ton a couple of times since I've owned them. You can tell when they're starting to fail as it takes a harder push on the pedal to activate the switch. When I put on the replacements, the brakelights come on almost before you can feel the brakes being applied. I've never taken a defective switch apart, but I would imagine its due to the gumming up of the plunger portion of the switch. Mike

If you have a NAPA nearby or a driveshaft shop with a guy with white hair and a pot belly they can probably match something up for you if you take in the old one. It'll take an experienced parts guy that's been around awhile. Good luck. Mike

Took my 1 ton to a local cruise last night and got lots of attention! Parked between 2 50's vintage power wagons and a fellow ATCA member's 60 Chev Rack Body. In an effort to "tune for mileage" I thought I'd set the points, and then check the timing. To my surprise-no vacuum advance on my distributer-and neither of the power wagons had them either. I added about 10 degrees advance, and think there is more to go as it still isn't pinging on a pull. Had a really nice ride on the 25 mile ride home under the stars w the fireworks on the mountain! No one was on the road so 40 mph was the order of the day-she's happiest there! Mike

I think a 170-180 thermostat would be hot enough. I'm running a 165 in my 1 ton and shell run up around 170-180 on a hot summer day. Given the fluctuation of a 60 year old temp guage-I'm good with that. It is hot enough that I'm buring off any condensation in my oil and its staying clean w my homemade PCV system. You may want to flush the block separate from the radiator to get rid of any accumulated crap in there so that it doesn't migrate to the radiator. Mike

If its internal to the starter motor the bushings may be shot on the commutator end, and/ or on the tail shaft of the starter housing. You may have to take it to have it done. I would think that these starters would still be available as rebuilt units through parts houses-maybe someone here has one available. Mike

GB-Hopefully the nuts/sloshing will do the job for you. Sounds like someone got a load of bad gas or maybe some kids were playing gas station with a garden hose. I remember doing that with a lawnmower when I was a kid-my Dad laughs about it now, but it wasn't very funny as I remember it at the time! The rheostat on my sending unit was shot, but I wanted to get the tank back in to get rid of the outboard tanks I had been using. If you find out what the ohm range is on the original please let me know. I think JC Whitney sells generic units with different ohm ranges. Mike

I used some small pcs of light chain, nuts and washers in mine and then sealed the inside w 2 different coats of sealer. As it turns out the tank wasn't leaking, the washer under the face of the drain plug was the culprit. That was a couple of years ago-and knock on wood-no problems since. I can't remember if I bought the sealant from Eastwood or another advertiser in Hemming (Hershfeld?). I'm happy. Mike

I bought it from Merle Coggins-he may be able to tell you. My truck is a 1 ton, and the link that came off it appears to have been made from an old tie rod! I'm pretty sure tho that those found on a half ton are of a lighter material than those on the 1 tons. I think if you get about the 1.5 ton rating they are even heavier material and won't fit the smaller trucks due to the diameter of the end shafts. Mike

Charles-it was both-one of the ball jointed ends had some play in it, and since I believe it was a unit from a half ton it had a thinner diameter bar stock than the one that I bought. I believe it was probably flexing under a load with the 7:50 16's on the 6 hole Budd rims since this is a 1 ton truck. Mike