MBF

GB-let me know how the LOWES material works out. I bought some 1/4" foam board last year and glued some vinyl material to it for the surroung around the rear window across the back of the cab all the way down to the floor. This was for noise reduction more than appearance. Now that I can hear myself think while driving, I'm thinking I'd like to finish it off the rest of the way and complete the headliner. To get the foam to flex around the corners of the cab I cut some vertical slits in the backing, and the after making the bends, put duct tape (what else) over the slits to add some stegnth to the foam for longevity. I'm obviously not an automotive upholsterer, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn a time or two! You say Reg has patterns?? hmmmm-may have to drop him a line. Mike

I think those grooves that are being looked at as threads on the outside of the bushings are meant as to increase the surface coverage of the lubricant (grease) throughout the shackle, bushing, and sping. TodFitch is correct. Kept properly lubed they will last a long time because the actual metal to contact area is reduce by the outer grooves, let these run dry and those grooves will wear down quickly and cause the shackle to develop side to side play. Just my 2 cents again! mike

My spring is connected the same way, and I just found another one in a parts truck I was cannibalizing earlier this summer. I cleaned it up and put it on the shelf for when the one in my truck gives up and breaks. I'm sure the spring has been weakened by age so the magnet works for me as an assist. My cab is a '49, so at 60 yrs old, I expect a little wear and sag-just like me, but I'm not there yet! Mike

I think the spring may be weakened. The previous owner of my truck put a cabinet door type magnet inside the door to keep it from vibrating partially open. Works for me! Mike

Dan-I made up a crude but working PCV system on my 52 1 ton w the 218. It uses a modified road tube housing with a nipple welded on the housing that the bolt goes through. To this I installed a short piece of rubber hose with a PCV valve in it, then another piece of rubber hose up to a vacuum port on the side of the intake. To filter the air coming into the block, I used a later model oil vent cap with the mesh filter inside (this needs to be re-engineered to draw filtered air on up on the air cleaner. I always had problems with this vehicle sludging up-and it had a lot of crud in the pan. Since my last oil change early this season I've put close to a 1000 miles on this, and the oil is still clear! Only problem I see is that she's a little more cold tempered than she used to be due to the calculated vacuum leak from this system. When she's warmed up no difference. The whole setup cost less than $15. Mike

Just something else to consider-parade use is hard on a vehicle (constant stops and starts at idle speed for a prolonged period of time). I'd almost suspect that what you're seeing is the accumulation of stuff that was collecting in the road tube during the parade that ejected during the ride home. I think you've got to see where the puddle is coming from, and how much oil you actually lost. A few drops after it creeps on a floor will look like a whole lot more than it actually is. Being 50+ years old entitles anyone to a little drip and smoke. Mike

I think what you're trying to say is that in a 4 cyl the power pulses are 180 apart (2 per crankshaft rotation), and in a 6 cyl they're 120 degrees apart (3 per crankshaft rotation) right? Mike

GB-If you're talking about the tabs that push into the door on the inside bottom of the door frame I bought mine from Roberts or Bernbaums-can't remember which), but it was purchased by the foot and I cut them to legnth and pushed them in the slots in the door. I thing they're called anti rattlers or something right? To be honest-they looked like wiper blade material! Mike

Bud-I am very interested in migrating the single pane windows from my truck to the 2 doors I bought from CA. I posted this question a couple of times and didn't get a real solid answer. Keep me posted on your progress, and I'll do the same. I hope this is as easy as they made this sound! I think you're also going to have to replace the outer window wiper to run the full length of the bottom of the door-I bought these from Roberts. Mike

Did you check the spring tension on the brush holders? Did you clean up the commutator face? Does the linkage move freely when disconnected from the motor/transmission-the pivots on the firewall may need a drop of oil. I'd also check to make sure there is no added on wiring that may be giving you an unwanted ground at either the motor or switch housing, but make sure that the motor housing is securely grounded to the body. I have a couple of working electric setups if you need one. Mike

I just scrapped a cab with the corner windows, but was able to save the glass. I picked every usable piece off this cab before it went. I have both side glass if you need them. You may want to check the distance between the horizontal bracing on the rear of the cab before you cut your cab up. If I remember correctly he did this because of the difference in spacing between the horizontal rear cab bracing on the std and dlx cabs-I could be wrong. I had thought that someone else did this conversion and cut along the bottom lip below the rear window and replaced the cab roof up to the a pillar joints. I think that you're going to need at least 1.5" around the entire circumfrance of the corner windows to be able to get the recess and flange that the rubber mounts in. Mike

What a find-good luck with it and welcome to the forum. Mike

Maybe mine had a heavy passenger! Mike

That's what the manual says-advance until it pings on a hard pull in high gear from 10mph. Pretty foolproof-especially for something that has a lot of miles on the timing chain. I'm getting 13 mpg on my 1 ton running locally to show-was hoping for better but after last night's chat session sounds like I'm in the ballpark! Mike

I think its a 1080 or 1011 from NAPA. Mike

This could be caused by a bunch of different things. Measure from the bottom of the front spring perch to the ground on either side. Is the gap in the front sheet metal above the frame rails the same on both sides? Are both front tires the same height? Are either of the front shocks seized? Are any of the leaves on the right side front or rear broken? Do both front springs have the same number of leaves? Has the left rear spring been replaced recently? Is the frame bent? I had this same problem when I started on my 52 1 ton. Still has about 3/4 inch lean-learned to live with it. Mike

Ditto on what Oldmopar said. I know from experience that DOT 5 cannot be mixed w DOT 3. It will turn all the rubber goodies that are exposed to the mixture to a gummy mush. Things go pop when you least expect it! Found this out from the RAYMOND corp after their service techs kept replacing very expensive brake systems because they didn't know the two fluids are not compatible.

If your supports are solid you could use one of the plastic marine battery boxes to prevent the acid from eating more of the supporting bracketry. Mike

Check the valve tappet covers under the manifold, and the road tube to see if that is dripping and the gasket around the oil pump. May be a real easy fix! They probably had to weld the crank in order to build up one or more journals due to wear. Mike

I agree w DbY4A. Check the master cyl bore and overhaul if necessary making sure the check valve asm is right. Another item you may want to check are the flex hoses. As these age they can collapse internally restricting the return flow of fluid after the brakes release and cause them to drag. I try to flush the systems in my old stuff every year or so due to the fact that DOT3 is like a wick for moisture. Mike

That is one nice looking solid truck. What a patina-she wears her age very well! Mike

GB-when I had my nose off-I left the rad support on so I'm not sure about this. Doesn't the rad mount bolt on with two bolts? Is there any way to just shim one side? I'm wondering if your radiator mount is the culprit and bent? Just something else to look at before trying to tweak the frame. Mike

If you want my 2 cents, I think you've got a real nice looking truck just the way she sits. I don't even have whites on my 36 Plymouth and its for a reason. It's a 2 owner car w 46K original miles-the original owner was an old farmer that couldn't afford whites so in keeping it original I kept it the same. One less thing to clean when going to a cruise-in or a show too. They look good either way, but I'm a blackwall fan. Mike

If your needle valve float has a rubber (viton)seat it may be stuck closed. The carb doesn't draw fuel into the float chamber-when the float moves down the needle valve opens and allows pressure from the fuel pump to fill the bowl until the float rises enough to shut the valve. If you've got fuel flow to the carburator, but it isn't filling the float chamber you've either got a very weak fuel pump or a stuck needle valve. I've seen this happen on trucks that were put away running-the seat gets a groove worn in it or crub on the needle valve itself. Good luck. Mike

Nice-so you were able to get them w/o the inner walls touching? If that's the case I may do the 7:50 route too. Mike