MBF

I had the same problem with a rebuilt unit I got from NAPA that resulted in a tow. I JBwelded the pin years ago and its still holding. If it happens again, I will get a rebuild kit, rebuild it myself, and get a longer pin that will take the push on clip locks.

I used the internally regulated GM alternator on both of my conversions.

I had the same issue with mine. I put a large but thin flat washer on each side of the spring eye on the front of both springs to keep the front of the springs centered in the mount. I don't know why the mounts are so much wider than the springs. Nothing appears bent, and the steel is too heavy to be drawn together by the threaded mounting pin. Mine has been like that for 20+ years w/o a problem.

I replaced the driver's side door glass (single pane-no vent) many years ago. I THINK that I did it through the top. I do remember removing two locking washers that secured the door glass channel to the bottom track of the window regulator. Those were accessed through the removable panel, but I'm almost positive that the glass was removed and installed through the window opening. Mike

Does anyone know of a replacement part number for the 36 Plym rear cylinders?

If you used regular old WD-40 I think you need a more aggressive penetrating oil. Spray the area where the crank handle goes into the gearbox, and see if you can feel the bottom track through the inspection panel opening. There should be two rollers in there that lube would help, but I'll bet the crank mechanism is what is keeping the regulator from moving. If you can't get it to free up, if you take the regulator mounting screws out, the regulator will probably move around enough to let you work the glass out, and then you'll have to working on getting the regulator assembly removed, cleaned and lubed. While you're in there, you may also want to remove the latching mechanism and clean and lube that too so that you don't have to take it apart again after you get the window situation repaired.

My 2.5 ton came home on a contractor's trailer. If you take the outer duals off, they'll fill on a standard roll-off.

I'll second what Jeff said-it would be a major engineering task to convert the oringal bellhousing mounted clutch linkage to a firewall mounted pedal asm. When I got my 1 ton 20 yrs ago the pedal moved side to side a great deal. Upon removal of the pedal itself I could see that the opening in the pedal was hogged out. I found another pedal from another truck which took care of most of the problem. Shortly after I did this, a machinist friend told me that he would have bored the opening and made a bushing if I wasn't able to live with the used pedal. I would imagine the same thing would apply to the brake pedal.

I've looked through the forum, done a search, and looked at the technical references. I'm replacing the front shackles on my 1 ton and have also installed the rear brackets from a parts truck as mine were badly worn. I don't have the shackles yet (bought from ESPO Springs and Things) but both of the brackets that I installed from the other truck appeared original, and were both right hand threaded for the bushing. I looked up the bracket p/n in my parts book, and that shows only 1 p/n (13-53-17) so I assume that they're both rh threaded. The shackles are left and right so I assume from reading the old threads that the lh threaded bushing goes into the spring eye of the driver's side spring. My next question is installing them. The factory svc manual says to install the bushings until there is a 3/4" gap between the shackle and edge of spring, and upper shackle and edge of mount. How tight are these bushings supposed to be, or do I just tighten them until I reach the recommended gap. I did this process about 10 yrs ago w/o replacing the worn mounts. I want to make sure I do it correctly this time. Thanks. Mike

I started the celebration early this year. Cleaning up some loose ends (big and small) to get it ready for cruise season.

No Jeff, they're called "projects" or "works in progress".

Welcome. What a nice solid survivor

On mine, when I had the brace off, I placed it on top of the fender lip (towards the rear of the truck). If you sandwhich it between the fender and cowl I think there is going to be too much of a gap.

I apologize for the delay in my response. I haven't been checking the forum like I should. The p/n's that I used on my '49 1 ton (cyls are same on left and right sides respectively for front and rear) are: 3595, and 3596. They're mirror images of each other. Mike

Reg, I've never met or spoken to you, but your actions speak louder than words. You're one of the reasons this site is such an asset to us Dodgers! Mike

When trying to start it, are any cables or connectors getting warm or hot? Have you taken the dust band off the starter and looked at the brushes or commutators? Removing the starter and doing a cleaning, brush, spring, and bushing replacement (as long as your cables, connectors, and battery are good) is a good way to learn what is going on. Electric motors don't like low voltage-so if your battery or cables are not doing their jobs, the starter won't be able to do its job either.

Hey Paul, I think I know what you're talking about. I'll bet that either the outer shackle bushing on the rear of the spring is worn on the outside, (may have been replaced with an aftermarket knockoff part), or the shackle eyes riveted to the chassis are hogged out and will need to be replaced. I think you'll find that they're probably both in need of attention unless someone replaced just one side in a previous life. Mike

And when you're pulling the rear drums, try to cradle it as you remove it so that the inner seal doesn't drag on the threaded portion of the axle tubes. Same when reinstalling it. If you haven't gotten parts yet, all 4 cylinders were available from NAPA. Same p/n's for left front and rears. Same thing for the right side. They're mirror images of each other. I can look up the p/n's if you need them. Mike

I think that hooped clip is for the transmission end of the parking brake cable.

Did you replace the flex line to the backing plate? Was this a NOS cylinder and did you look inside to see if there was any internal rust or pitting? Were the pivots on the eccentrics clean and the felt / steel retainers cleaned and lubed?

If you're not in a hurry, I've had good luck buying the window channel runs, and weather stripping at swap meets. I carry a sample and purchase what I need by the foot. For the windshield gasket, I'd definitely look to Clesters or someone that sells the wider version than Roberts sells. Like 4mula says, it doesn't cover the pinch welds very well, and may leak w/o sealing. Mike

I think well worn battle scars add character to the life of a 60+ yr old vehicle. Neither of mine are anywhere near perfect, but the both get driven, and get positive comments at any event I attend. The 50 mph thing is getting to be more and more dangerous here in the northeast as traffic increases, but I'm happiest tooling down a back road at 40 enjoying the sounds and sights. I don't look as new as I did 60 yrs ago, and I'm accepting that my trucks don't either. There's a bunch that didn't make it this far - people and trucks. Mike

Bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke and move the #1 spark plug wire to the position of the rotor tip, then re-install your spark plug wires accordingly (1,5,3,6,2,4). That should get you close.

I pulled the 5 speed in my 2.5 ton w/o removing the shifter when I did the clutch. My transmission cover came right off and I was able to slide it back enough and lower it with the jack to set it on the floor. I put it back in that same way with it intact. On some transmissions, if you just want to remove the lever I believe that the cap (top half of a ball at the bottom of the shift lever) unscrews and you can pop the stick out that way.

Not sure that this is your problem, but you may want to pull the pressure relief valve and see if it is stuck closed. I'd also remove the lines to the filter and blow them out with compressed air to make sure you have good flow. I've had new gaskets leak on the cannister, and keep my old ones in case I get another leaker.