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MBF

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Everything posted by MBF

  1. MBF
    No Jeff, they're called "projects" or "works in progress".
  2. MBF
    Welcome. What a nice solid survivor
  3. MBF
    On mine, when I had the brace off, I placed it on top of the fender lip (towards the rear of the truck). If you sandwhich it between the fender and cowl I think there is going to be too much of a gap.
  4. MBF
    I apologize for the delay in my response. I haven't been checking the forum like I should. The p/n's that I used on my '49 1 ton (cyls are same on left and right sides respectively for front and rear) are: 3595, and 3596. They're mirror images of each other. Mike
  5. MBF
    Reg, I've never met or spoken to you, but your actions speak louder than words. You're one of the reasons this site is such an asset to us Dodgers! Mike
  6. MBF
    When trying to start it, are any cables or connectors getting warm or hot? Have you taken the dust band off the starter and looked at the brushes or commutators? Removing the starter and doing a cleaning, brush, spring, and bushing replacement (as long as your cables, connectors, and battery are good) is a good way to learn what is going on. Electric motors don't like low voltage-so if your battery or cables are not doing their jobs, the starter won't be able to do its job either.
  7. MBF
    Hey Paul, I think I know what you're talking about. I'll bet that either the outer shackle bushing on the rear of the spring is worn on the outside, (may have been replaced with an aftermarket knockoff part), or the shackle eyes riveted to the chassis are hogged out and will need to be replaced. I think you'll find that they're probably both in need of attention unless someone replaced just one side in a previous life. Mike
  8. MBF
    And when you're pulling the rear drums, try to cradle it as you remove it so that the inner seal doesn't drag on the threaded portion of the axle tubes. Same when reinstalling it. If you haven't gotten parts yet, all 4 cylinders were available from NAPA. Same p/n's for left front and rears. Same thing for the right side. They're mirror images of each other. I can look up the p/n's if you need them. Mike
  9. MBF
    I think that hooped clip is for the transmission end of the parking brake cable.
  10. MBF
    Did you replace the flex line to the backing plate? Was this a NOS cylinder and did you look inside to see if there was any internal rust or pitting? Were the pivots on the eccentrics clean and the felt / steel retainers cleaned and lubed?
  11. MBF
    If you're not in a hurry, I've had good luck buying the window channel runs, and weather stripping at swap meets. I carry a sample and purchase what I need by the foot. For the windshield gasket, I'd definitely look to Clesters or someone that sells the wider version than Roberts sells. Like 4mula says, it doesn't cover the pinch welds very well, and may leak w/o sealing. Mike
  12. MBF
    I think well worn battle scars add character to the life of a 60+ yr old vehicle. Neither of mine are anywhere near perfect, but the both get driven, and get positive comments at any event I attend. The 50 mph thing is getting to be more and more dangerous here in the northeast as traffic increases, but I'm happiest tooling down a back road at 40 enjoying the sounds and sights. I don't look as new as I did 60 yrs ago, and I'm accepting that my trucks don't either. There's a bunch that didn't make it this far - people and trucks. Mike
  13. MBF
    Bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke and move the #1 spark plug wire to the position of the rotor tip, then re-install your spark plug wires accordingly (1,5,3,6,2,4). That should get you close.
  14. MBF
    I pulled the 5 speed in my 2.5 ton w/o removing the shifter when I did the clutch. My transmission cover came right off and I was able to slide it back enough and lower it with the jack to set it on the floor. I put it back in that same way with it intact. On some transmissions, if you just want to remove the lever I believe that the cap (top half of a ball at the bottom of the shift lever) unscrews and you can pop the stick out that way.
  15. MBF
    Not sure that this is your problem, but you may want to pull the pressure relief valve and see if it is stuck closed. I'd also remove the lines to the filter and blow them out with compressed air to make sure you have good flow. I've had new gaskets leak on the cannister, and keep my old ones in case I get another leaker.
  16. MBF
    I would think it would be easier to make your own gaskets. I got tired of trying to find a differential to rear axle housing gasket so I made my own taking some careful measurements and used a ball peen hammer and some very light single wall chipboard. It was the same thickness as a piece of the old gasket that I had. Took about an hour of measuring and tracing, When it was done it was an exact fit, and put an end to the phone calls and email searches I had been conducting. I also traced around the finished gasket and made a pattern in case I need to make another one down the road. If you've got flat surfaces to work with should be easy ones to make. Mike
  17. MBF
    Great trucks, not very highway friendly but a lot of fun to drive as long as you're not in a hurry. Will definitely haul their rated capacity and then some.
  18. MBF
    Why do you want to pull it apart? It isn't a front cover, its the carrier assembly for the differential. All of the internal gears (ring and pinion, spiders) are inside. If you just want to do a visual inspection you can just pull the rear cover.
  19. MBF
    Nice-looks like you're making good progress.
  20. MBF
    If there was gear oil in the trans you may have lucked out depending on how much water it took on. Whatever oil was in there would have floated on top of the water unless you've been driving it. In that case you have a transmission flavored looking milk shake.
  21. MBF
    If you can't pull it out of the box, it's likely the remnant of the horn wire which provide the ground for the horn. I don't know why that would be going to the headlight switch unless it shared the circuit breaker on the light switch itself. If I remember correctly, the - feed (which is the hot side in a positive ground system) goes from the accessory post on the keyswitch through a fuse to one terminal on the horn. The second one goes from the switch mechanism under the horn button, through the steering column tube to the other post on the horn. When you push the button you complete the circuit by making the ground, The horn body itself is insulated from the cab through phonalic(sp?) washers on the bracket.
  22. MBF
    I think I've got a set of working bull's eye bulbs on the shelf. I ought to put them in my 2.5 ton and see if they are any different that the replacements that are in there. Anybody done this comparison before?
  23. MBF
    Yup-what 4852 said. It's very close-for under the dash it'd be an exact match!
  24. MBF
    I'm wondering if that truck wasn't originally a firetruck, and that extra setup wasn't part of a power take off for the pump. It may have been used to disengage the output from the back of the transmission to operate the pump. Just guessing
  25. MBF
    Just something else to think about. If you bought it from Steve Harvey it could be a 52 FORD
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