Niel Hoback

Mopar engines already have hardened valve seats. Since 1933, I think.

Wow, interplanetary humor. Great.

I was told to use a white LED behind a red lens or else you would get practically no red light at all.

This is not my car, just posting in case someone sees it or parts for sale. North Riverside, Chicago . http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/vnn/5497416313.html "Someone took my 1941 Dodge Deluxe Luxury Liner. D19. It's tan/cream in color and looks like a military vehicle when the logo artwork is on it. Otherwise a fancy classic sedan with them off. It was in a garage in North Riverside. Battery disconnected and ready for the winter. Who ever took it knew what they were doing, or at least had a tow truck to take it away. I'm guessing its going to be sold as parts as I have the title, registration and keys still. If you see anyone selling parts for a 1940's Dodge D-19, please consider where they are coming from. If you see this vehicle I would appreciate known its whereabouts." Thanks

I name that car "Betsy".

I understand perfectly. Like my dad would tell me; "You don't need to know why, just do it."

Lemme see if I can find a six volt Saturn. Hmmm

Makes you wanna open the hood, lean on the fender and just watch the fan go around. Very relaxing.

Trailer wiring is a little light for 6 volt use. You might want to use something heavier.

Yes, they were and are mistaken. I drive 60 with room for more.

I'm betting that your idle speed is too high. You've changed the carb, now make the adjustment and see it shifts to high.

Pictures please. '50 DeSotos are a very handsome looking car. I like them best in light blue.

I didn't see the scenery the first time I watched. Too busy watching Cooper. I think he's watching you in an attempt to learn to drive. Don't leave the keys where he can get at them.

WOW, is that nice!!

I feel my Plymouth has an attitude also. "Get in, I'll take you where you want to go and bring you back home, no problem, that's what I'm made to do." Doing what you're supposed to do is very "Truman" like.

Very nice !!!

Set your point gap, (dwell), before you try to set the timing. The distributor mounting plate is adjustable on underside of the housing if you need more room.

Only the cover will come down after you remove the bolts. To get the clutch and fluid coupling out, you first have to remove the drive shaft and the transmission. This is my memory of 55 years ago; with the trans out and the cover off, remove the fork and throwout bearing, mark the clutch housing to coupling index and remove the clutch. I think that then you can unbolt the coupling from the crankshaft flange. Caution, it's really heavy.

That's not the fluid coupling and it's not a tear. That's a drain in the clutch cover to let out any splashed up water and leaking oil from the rear main oil seal.

Hey, at least you found it. Not like it disappeared.

Put the old regulator back on.

That's a great article, I'm sending it to a friend of who is a middle school teacher and a fan of Indiana history. I'm sure he will appreciate it also. Thanks for the link.

Whatever that part is, it could probably be fixed with JBweld.

The Plymouth dome light comes off by unsnapping the stainless frame from the light housing. The lens stays in the stainless frame.

Some Anco and Trico blades come off by rotating them 90 degrees to the arm and unhooking it.