Mike36

Above information is correct. When you slightly flatten the hump in the center of the plug, it increases the diameter of the plug, thereby wedging it in the block. If you have not installed your plugs in this manner, do not drive the car until they are installed correctly. I'm sure you do not want to damage the engine.

I know how to save you some fuel money. Run empty til you get to Colorado, where the REAL beer is made!

Tim, your evil side is showing.

Yes, beautiful day for a drive. I spent the day in the timber cutting wood. Please pass the Ben-Gay and the Aleve.

To check accuracy of gauge, you must read temp at same location that the gauge is reading it from.

Great car, welcome to the forum! First step in getting it on the road will be to obtain both a shop manual and a Motors Repair Manual. Make sure they cover your year of car. Both are available on EBAY. Ask questions, many knowledgeable guys here.

It was to encourage entry and exit on the curb side of the vehicle rather than the street side. Safety issue.

I bought two complete 230 engines with all accessories and transmission this summer. Each one was $100.

Ask for a picture of the block with number showing. Probably won't hear from him again. Sounds like a scam. The bastards are everywhere.

Joe, I would pull the plugs and put oil in the cylinders,using a hose to get the oil onto the Pistons. Just because engine turns now doesn't mean it will in two years when you start on it.

You have listed a 49 Plymouth as a project car, and don't know what a voltage regulator is. Nothing wrong with that, we all didn't know at one point. BUT, if you will be working on this car, you will most certainly need a shop manual and a Motors Repair Manual, both which need to be year specific for your car. They can be found on EBay. This site has many knowledgeable people willing to help you. Welcome and good luck.

The neat part of this would be crawling under to clean it off. NOT !

I put buckets out of a Neon in a 39 Dodge sedan. They fit good, look good, and are comfortable.

Go to the p15-d24 site and read the post " looking for a good oil ".

I understand what you have written, and agree with it. My problem was the oil pan drain being 1/4 inch higher than the bottom of the pan. Therefor the sludge did not go out with the oilwhen drained. It was still lying there in the bottom of the pan eagerly waiting to pollute the new oil.

What are you calling a long time ? 6 months? 6 years? Draining and cleaning out a fuel tank is easier than doing same to the lines, pump, and carb.

At the last oil change on my 230, I stuck my finger in the drain opening to feel for sludge, after the oil had all drained. Yuk ! Sludge was close to 1/4 in deep. I dropped the pan and cleaned the mess out. Then pulled the valve covers, found the same mess. Cleaned out all I could with fingers and rags, then used brake clean and compressed air. Makes a big mess, but is now squeaky clean. This has to be done BEFORE reinstalling oil pan, or mess is now in the oil pan you just cleaned ! While cleaning the oil pan, I noticed the bottom of the drain opening was higher than the bottom of the oil pan. This allowed the sludge to stay in the pan after all oil was drained. I should mention the drain was on the rear of the pan, not the bottom. I cut a 4 inch square piece from another pan with the drain in the bottom. Then cut a smaller hole in the bottom of my 230 pan. With the patch welded over the opening in my 230 pan, I now have a drain dead center in the bottom, with no lip to retain sludge. After installing pan, I put in 3 qts oil and 2 qts auto trans fluid. No oil filter. Drove car 30 miles, and drained it out. Looked like black paint coming out of pan. Drained and cleaned oil filter canister, installed new filter, added 5 qts Shell Rotella 15-40. Drove the same 30 miles, pulled dipstick, oil looks like it did when I put it in. I highly recommend doing this if you oil turns black shortly after an oil change. That dirt circulating through your engine is not a good thing.

Knuckle, in your fourth paragraph, don't you mean non detergent oil ?

You're doing a great job ! I just mentioned the 4 jaw so you wouldn't machine something critical in a 3 jaw and get in trouble. While I'm sure you know better, some of the guys on here might not. Ok, I'm done. Carry on you're doing a dandy job.

Have really enjoyed your post, great pictures. I would recommend using a 4 jaw chuck, and indicating that end of the armature in. A 3 jaw chuck does not run concentric, and will give you a false, inaccurate reading.

Two choices, find a Borg Warner overdrive fron a newer Mopar, or change the rear axle. Many use Jeep Cherokee or Ford Explorer. Overdrive is easier, but can be hard to find and expensive to buy because of popularity. Use the search function at top of page for detailed information. Ask questions, lots of help on this site.

Worden, you might want to rethink the gas can in the trunk. In the event of a rear collision, your kids are four feet from the gas and possible sparks. Nuff said.

This trans can be used in your '37 Plymouth by changing the top plate thereby converting it to floor shift. It is not an overdrive.

On further study of the picture, looks like a cable going into trans beside lever. '39 Dodge.

'39 Dodge has one lever. Column shift operated by a cable, and one shift rod. Don't know if Plymouth is the same.