Mike36

Hi Jon, I noticed the plug that you have grease in says " Heavy Gear Oil ". I think the oil does a better job of lubricating gears. Did you go to the grease because of a leak with gear oil? I have seen grease in gear boxes get cast to the side over time causing the gears to run dry, thereby accelerating wear.

Gary, on my '39 Dodge one wire goes to a switch that clamps on the bottom of the dash, the other goes to ground. Did you figure out your shift cable? Was going to get you a picture of mine, but forgot. Seems like that happens a lot these days.

Champion spark plugs have given me more trouble than any other brand. For the Mopar flathead 6, I like Autolite 295.

Andy, for a 2 carb manifold contact Earl Edgerton at Edgy speed shop. I'm sure he can answer many of your questions as he manufactures speed parts for your .engine.

I agree, neither truck is a factory dully. Nice find !

Hi Andy, difficult to do a accurate diagnosis without seeing the vehicle. Your mechanic may be correct, but I do not think your Dodge would run ok for 2 hours and now the carb is too worn on the inside to work correctly. You may want to get a second opinion. Hopefully another forum member can direct you to a mechanic with experience on these engines that is within driving distance for you. If you post exactly what the malfunction is, we may be able to give you ideas on what to check. Might not be your carb, maybe distributor vacuum advance isn't working. Until we know more ,it's a guess.

In 1967 I bought a new grill for my '36 Ply from JC Whitney. Cost me $29.95. Sometimes the "good ole days " really were.

Sorry to hear this Rich. Hope you can get it repaired. Once again a creep ruins it for everybody.

Wow! Bad luck for sure! Hang in there, a better day is coming.

Looks like a model P2 Deluxe. The grills on these cars were not very sturdy. Most 36's I see have a replacement grill of some sort.

It's a 35 or 36 Plymouth. Can't see enough of it to tell which. Same body, different fenders.

63 1/2 Galaxie

I am far from an expert on conditioned air, but I do not see this as a swamp cooler if the air passing through it is contained in pvc pipe and not exposed to the atmosphere surrounding the ice. My understanding of swamp coolers is that they are evaporative coolers . The air passing through is cooled by the evaporation of water. That is not what I see phlamings apparatus doing. If the air entering it is contained in pvc pipe and run back and forth in the bottom of the cooler a few times, the ice and ice water in the cooler will cool the air because the pvc pipe will be cold. And the moisture content of the air will not be raised because the air is not exposed to the melting ice. Don't know how well it will work, but do know 82 degrees is better than 92 degrees. How about it HVAC guys, what ya thinking?

The blocks will last longer than cubes. As cold air goes down, I would have the air lines inside the cooler run across the bottom with the ice on top of them. As the ice melts the ice water will encircle the air lines, and should do a super job of cooling the air. Just thinking, are you using air lines or just blowing air thru the cooler? Might take some experimenting and tinkering, but I think you are on to something here. Can't wait to see what you find out!

Have you tried this thing out? I'd like th know how good it works. The combination of heat & humidity can be pretty awful here in Iowa at times, and My '39 gets mad at me if neglected too long.

Key phrase here is,"the other bushing went in fine ". For this bushing to lock up so tight that you bent a bar, there is metal to metal interference. When you get it out, the source of the interference has to be discovered and corrected. Cross threading is a possibility, so is a defective bushing. The threads in the support may be damaged now and need repair in addition to whatever the bushing problem is. 20 years in a machine shop taught me that when resistance is high in a threaded assembly, STOP and back it out. Then investigate until the source of the resistance is discovered and corrected. This is ALWAYS easier and less time consuming than straightening out a mess and purchasing new parts. There was a time when I was younger that I felt the pain and frustration of trying to "force" it together. Never do that. Keep at it, you will solve this and be a better mechanic with this experience in your memory.

I would not heat the bushing, but rather the part the bushing is screwed into. The idea is to expand it away from the bushing. The wax works good, got an old candle?

I would be glad to , but do not know how. Any tips?

I have 2 engines with a tag at that location. They both say " when ordering parts specify 231 ".

A rod knock will be loudest with your foot off the accelerator, as in going down a hill. Pre ignition knock will be the he opposite, and be loudest going up the hill with accelerator down. Which do you have? If it's a rod knock, STP or no additive will help. The engine needs mechanical repair NOW. Keep driving it and the rod will be sticking out the side of the block. If it's pre ignition, you already have TOO MUCH timing ( advanced too far ). I strongly suggest you get a shop manual for your car and study it before you lose your engine.

Nice Dodge!

I agree, that block will most likely have trouble holding a head gasket.

Great pics, thanks for the post.

I would would scrape it with a stiff, narrow putty knife first. Then vacuum, then wire brush, vacuum again, wipe it out with a rag wet with paint thinner, then apply something like Rust Oleum Rust Reformer.

Contact Dodgeb4ya, on this site. He's in your area.