squirebill

What everybody else said....center nut on, puller installed and under tension, then apply some heat. I used a hand held torch with MAPP gas. Surprised me how a little heat got things moving.

Thanks for the information. Like I said , had heard about this device but never saw one. Now that i know what it is called was able to find a few videos where it was demonstrated. Brought back some great memories of shade treeing with my Dad and later with my Step Dad.

So how did the boring bar fasten to the block. Can't tell from the video. Is it mechanically fastened or is it an electromagnet. Just wondering. Regards

"In chasis" engine work...gotta love it. Wonder if there is something peculiar about #4 cylinder in our flatheads. I did an "in chasis" overhaul on a '49 Plymouth in 1969. If memory serves, it was also a spun big end bearing on #4 piston rod. Got it all back together but never got it running. Reported for an enlistment in the Marine Corps. Figured I would work on it on "leave" and have it when I got out. Neighborhood kids built a "fort" under it. My Mom was afraid they would catch it on fire by using candles for light. She "junked" it 6 months before my enlistment was up. Never did get it started or hear it run. Talk about roadside repairs and shade tree mechanic work. My step Dad told me of a service that was available when he was a teen. People would come to the car and rebore and hone the piston bores. Seems they had a machine something like a drill press that would lock into one cylinder bore and bore out and hone the next bore. Switchy switchy until all bores were done. Anybody else ever seen or heard of this. He grew up and lived in Philadelphia, PA. May have been a big city thing rather than suburbs or rural. FYI. Regards

OEM Brake light switch is hydraulically actuated but is a separate port than the ports going to the brakes. A faulty brake light switch would affect the brake lights but not the brakes unless it is leaking externally. These vehicles have 3 brake hoses, one to each of the front wheels and one between the frame and the rear axle. I dissected a front hose that was not relieving brake pressure. Ended up being rust within the crimped fitting on one end of the hose. Rust formed on the ID of the crimped fitting and squeezed the rubber hose within it to pretty much closed. Allowed high brake pressure to go in but return spring brake pressure was very slow to come out. As Plymouthy Adams recommend, check the rear hose. Run a thin wire through it to make sure it is clear.

Andydodge....you are correct and there is another guide channel inside the door that guides and holds the front edge of the window when the window is in the down position. It goes in line with the back edge of the quarter window vertical frame and down into the door about 14 to 16 inches. this is the channel I was referring to in my previous post and the one that had the remains of the original fuzzy channel with no fuzzy left on it.

Take a really close look at the channel. If I remember correctly when doing mine on '49 Plymouth the channel that holds the fuzzy channel has no rolled edges at the open side. Looks to me that you have rolled edges showing. I think these are the remains of the original fuzzy guide without any of the original fuzzy in it. The original fuzzy channels were riveted to the outer channel about an inch or two from the bottom, from the top and somewhere towards the center of the run. I pried the remains of the fuzzy channel from the bottom, bent it back and forth to free it from the bottom rivet, then pried some more channel out and bent it back and forth to free it from the center rivet and so on until all the original fuzzy channel was removed. If I remember correctly the width of the outer bottom part of the new fuzzy was 9/16 inch. If what you are looking at has a rolled edge and is not wide enough to accept a 9/16 wide fuzzy channel you probably have the remains of the original fuzzy channel still in the guide channel. Regards

Front seat can stay unless your carpet goes under the front seat. My carpet had a seam or an overlap just in front of the front seat. In my situation the carpet was glued to the floor which was a pain. Once the floor panel was removed the master cylinder was a breeze to remove.

Check your brake hose fittings where the rubber hose goes into the end fitting. I had this happen a few times with brake hoses. Rust forms on the ID of the hose fitting and squeezes the hose inside the fitting closed or close to closed. Hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal can push fluid in but return springs have a hard time pushing the fluid back out. Brakes hang up. Seems like this would happen all the time, not just after a hard left in reverse and a hard right in first but is easy to check.

Check your brakes also before winter and remember to put on the brake socks....gotta have brake shoes and socks for winter. Oh, I don't get extra blankets....I just get extra mufflers.

What was the Mopar part number for this ferrule. My parts book for P17,P18 issued June 1949, in the "Fuel" section under "Fuel tubing attaching parts" lists a "SLEEVE, fuel line, Part number B1316 669". I assumed this was the ferrule people are talking about. If this isn't the ferrule that goes in the fuel tank outlet fitting then what is it and where does it go? As a point of interest, Moparpro on ebay lists the fuel line ferrule for 1940,41,42,46,47,and 48 ....as well as....49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56. I'm confused.

So I recently replaced the fuel tank on my '49 suburban. I had read about this ferrule on this forum. When I removed the line from the tank I looked closely and carefully for the ferrule but did not find one. The sleeve fitting on the line looks similar to an inverted flare fitting but is not. The mouth of the fitting does not allow for a flare end on the tube. Rather, it is machined with a straight ID. The tube runs straight through the tube and the end of the tube is formed flat not tapered or flared. I did not know the ferrule was available from Moparpro and as an alternative I cut a thin washer from 3/8" OD copper tubing to use as a "crush washer". Tank is currently 1/2 filled with gas and no leaks. If it leaks in the future, I know where to get a ferrule. Regards.

What DJK said

Has anyone had the fine mesh (brass?) screen at the top of this sediment bowl/filter disintegrate. I'm guessing from ethanol. I looked in the bottom of the sediment bowl at my fuel pump and saw what I thought was the mesh screen. Thought it had fallen from the top somehow. When I removed the glass bowl the sediment screen disintegrated to a fine powder in the glass bowl. The vehicle had sat for quite awhile. If I had been driving it regularly I guess the particles from the disintegration would have passed through the fuel system and not collected in the bottom of the glass bowl . Anyone experienced this. Do you have the screen at the top of the bowl or is it gone. Regards.

Was a seller on Ebay. Seller name is "forthebeachonly". Has almost 6000 items listed. I will check him again if I need anything. Regards

Easy remedy. Just have to use a 6 wire directional signal switch, the kind that has a feed wire coming from the brake light switch.

1949 Plymouth Suburban. Have checked my manual wiring diagram and for the rear lighting there is a left tail light and left turn signal, a right tail light and a right turn signal. Then there is a single brake light shown in the center of the wiring diagram. This I'm guessing is the single light mounted on center of the trunk of a sedan, coupe, etc. The suburban has no center light mounted on the center of the tail gate. So my question is where was the brake light/lights on a Suburban or Station Wagon?

As 1949 Wraith said: I seem to remember this also but no screwdriver slot. No lockwasher was used under the nut. The castlelated nut was installed tight but not to the full torque. The cotter pin inserted. One leg of the cotter pin was bent up and over the end of the bolt and cut off flush with the side of the nut. The other leg of the cotter pin was left straight and cut off flush with the side of the nut. This arrangement then allowed for a socket or wrench to be used to turn the adjusting/anchor bolt from the back side of the backing plate. Regards

Replacement tank was received yesterday. Direct replacement with no rust on the interior. Was $150 + $50 shipping from CA. to southeast PA. Very happy. I did look into a couple RENU dealers in my area. Was quoted between $295-$395. Did read somewhere in their process that they gained access to the interior that's why I asked the original question about taking the tank apart. Bottom line: have my replacement tank. When I get a chance will cut access holes to clean interior, seal and close up my old tank . Will document process with photos and post on this forum. Then maybe others can save a little money with a DIY gas tank refurbishment. Regards.

My Plymouth manual says a P24 has a pressurized cooling system but does not say what "psi" cap should be used.

Thanks for the responses. Doesn't seem like a seam that would come apart by applying heat from a MAPP torch. I have little welding experience but do have a HF 110 volt wire feed welder and can usually get two pieces of metal to stick together. Usually looks like a bunch of tiny grapes but if you get enough of them, things usually stick together, not usually water tight though. Looking through the inlet hole and sender unit hole of the tank I can see globules of something adhered to the inside of the tank. Would like to get it apart to see what it is and if it can be cleaned out. Will probably use the idea of cutting above the seam with angle grinder, leaving a flange and figuring a way to put it back together with weld,solder, or space age epoxy/adhesive. This will be "aroundtuit" project but will advise of my findings. Regards.

Did you find the source of the oil/ antifreeze/ fluid around the base of the #3 spark plug?

If I'm not mistaken it is a plumbing fitting with a tapered thread. Also, I seem to remember there is one on the rear of the engine that gets covered by the bell housing so a square headed replacement might not work on the rear of the engine. I left mine in the block and let the machine shop handle it. Regards.

Anybody familiar with the construction of our gas tanks. I'm dealing with a 1949 Suburban. Are the top and bottom halves soldered at the flange using standard soft solder or is it a hard solder/braze ? I've heard of "tin plate" steel that can be soldered and wonder if this is what the tank halves are made of. I have a new/different tank coming but thought I would experiment with the old tank to see if I could get it apart, clean, patch and reseal, and post my findings for others to consider. Regards

So I finally got my '49 Suburban off the jack stands and took it for a test drive yesterday. Now that it's on the ground started thinking about it's stance and spring sag. What should it be? Looked in my parts manual and found a good side view picture of a 4 door sedan. Did a scaling calculation using the wheel rim diameter of 16.5". So from ground to the bottom of the rocker moulding where the bottom rear corner of the front fender meets the bottom front corner of the door calculates to 11.0". From the ground to the bottom of the rocker moulding where the moulding meets the front corner of the rear fender is 11.9". Measurements on my car are: 10" front and 11" rear or about 1" low. Wonder if new body mounts would correct the problem. Point being if you can find a good photo of your model car when new you can do the scaling calculation to get "good enough" estimate of ground clearance. Regards.