squirebill

Could the top of the transmission be hitting the bottom of the transmission tunnel? Just thinking that replacing the rear motor mounts raised the rear of the engine. Now the transmission has to be closer to the bottom of the transmission tunnel especially if the body mounts are squished and need to be replaced. On my '49 the floor panel runs from the left frame to the side of the trans tunnel. Just a thought. Regards.

PILOT BUSHING QUANDRY?!?! So it seems an "oilite" sintered bronze bushing has been specified for our mopar flat head engines. Also, the oilite bushing should be handled in such a way that no damage happens to the pores of the sintered bronze. The link offered by sniper even states that the bushing should be installed with constant pressure and not by hammer impacts. So now I go to my service manual that states the bushing should be installed using mopar special tool DD-286 and driven into place with a soft hammer ( impacted into the bore, a no-no). Then the tool is used to "burnish" the bushing to the correct size. Burnishing is somewhat of a polishing process that would affect the pores of the bushing (another no-no). In Figure 19 of the Clutch Section of my service manual, that is titled "Lubricating Pilot Bushing" it says , "Insert about 1/2 teaspoonful Short Fiber Grease in the pilot bushing." (according to Oilite, another no-no, or at least not necessary). Seems to me the oilite bushing was specified but the mopar engineers knew they were going to damage the pores of the sintered bronze by burnishing the bushing to size and therefore lubrication was necessary. I have and will follow the directions in the Service Manual. Just my 2/100 of a dollar.

As Hickory mentioned about "rolling in" the upper mains, the service manual I have that covers from 1946 to 54 shows a special tool on Figure 16 in the Engine Section. I never used one because I dropped the crankshaft for a regrind. But instead of the special tool I figure I could fashion one from a cotter pin or nail or something.

Again, its been a while....say your working on #1 piston....rotate crank so #1 piston is at bottom of stroke. Remove lower bearing cap, protect cap bolt threads, push piston up off the crank, that should give you room to get the upper bearing shell off the crank or out of the bottom end of the piston rod. Note that when #1 piston is at the bottom of stroke so will be #6 so do #6 next. Then rotate crank 120 degrees and do #2 and #5, rotate crank another 120 degrees and do #3 and #4.

Been awhile since I've been in an engine but I would recommend that once you remove the lower cap place some kind of sleeve over the threads of the cap bolts , rubber/vinyl hose, masking tape, etc. this will avoid worries of bolt threads scraping the crank shaft as you push the piston up per Sniper's recommendation. Just a thought.

Coming in late on this post. In my Plymouth Passenger Car Parts List, Issued June 1949....Part Type Code 6-52-11 BEARING,Clutch Torque Shaft Pivot calls out part number 635 884 and 4 used per car. I'm familiar with this part on my '49 Plymouth wagon. Two of them formed the socket for the ball on each end of the clutch torque shaft. They were some sort of metal alloy. Looks like Bernbaum's offering is some sort of plastic. Regards

I'm new to this post. Bingster, what engine are you working on? If it is a Mopar flathead 6, the firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4, going in a clockwise direction looking at the distributer rotor. The firing order given by Bulldog above is 1, 5, 2, 4, 3, 6. This might work for some engine but it is not the correct firing order for a Mopar flat head 6. Regards.

Do you have an idea of which part is actually worn, the shaft or the stop plate bore? Do you have the spec. for the shaft diameter or the cam stop plate bore? I don't but was thinking maybe the ID of the stop plate bore could be knurled and reamed (like done to valve guides) to make a tighter fit on the shaft.... OR....the shaft could be built up with braze/ silver solder and turned to a larger diameter to make a tighter fit in the stop plate bore. Just a thought. Regards.

Three center punch marks on the OD of the bushing about 120* apart might give it more of an "interference" fit.

To clarify: rear wheels of B1B truck were not rolling/moving. They were sitting on wheel roller dollies to get winched onto the flat bed. When delivered the bed was tilted and the roller dollies rolled until they were on the ground then the tow truck was driven from under the B1B. Transmission was seized and needed a rebuild. Gears were rusted together.

Years back I sent my '49 B1B to the body shop to have the 4 cab corners repaired. When they returned the truck (months later) they used a flat bed tow truck because the engine was "seized". They had soaked the cylinders with ATF, Marvel lube, etc with no luck. I removed the drive shaft and transmission. Engine spun OK. Turns out trans was seized not the engine.

Hydraulic systems take the path of least resistance. In a multiple cylinder system the cylinder with the lightest load will actuate first. That being said, are your return springs the same? If they are different sizes or one is stretched and they don't have equal tension they will not act in unison.

It seems like you are trying to salvage this old seal by taking it out in one piece. Cut a slot in the portion of the seal that protrudes from the front of the cover. Take your strongest vise grips and clamp it beside this slot and cut another slot on the other side of the vise grip jaw. Now pry, tear, hammer the vise grip into the cover to rip the seal out from the inside of the cover. The seal may have to come out in a few pieces but it will finally be outta there. Regards

Hadn't seen this video. Watched it and during the "Shakedown " video started recognizing streets in the neighborhood I grew up in. The intersection where the railroad tracks cross the trolley tracks where he says there is an accident is 6th and Main in Darby, Pa. I crossed that intersection every day going to high school. Small world . Think I may try to contact him.

So my method of hot wire is to run a wire from the neg. battery terminal to the input (negative) terminal of the coil. Then a heavy jumper across the heavy terminals of the starter solenoid to start the car. OR a jumper wire from the neg. battery terminal to the small input terminal of the starter solenoid. The connections to the starter solenoid are only connected until the starter activates and the engine is running, then they are disconnected. The wire to the coil is required to keep the ignition circuit active and the engine running. This jumper would have to be disconnected to stop the engine. If you leave this jumper connected because the engine stopped for some reason and the points happen to be closed then yes, you have a closed circuit from the battery through the coil and through the points to ground and you can drain the battery and maybe damage the coil and points. In my jumper wire kit I have a household light switch wired into the jumper wire for the coil jumper wire and a momentary push button switch on my jumper for the starter solenoid. I turn the ignition circuit on with the household switch to the ON position and press the push button switch to activate the starter and release when the engine is running. When I want to stop the engine, I flip the household switch to the OFF position.

That should only happen if the ignition switch is left in the "On" position.

It's hurting my head too. From reading the manual paragraph associated with this picture ( Figure 25) it says "Continue rotating the crankshaft until the No. 6 intake valve tappet just contacts the valve stem. This tells me that no.6 piston is at TDC but at the end of the exhaust and beginning of the intake stroke. This same crank and camshaft position would be TDC for the no.1 piston at the end of the compression and beginning of the power stroke and when the no.1 spark plug should "fire". Bottom line, with the timing marks aligned as in fig. 25 both no. 6 and no.1 pistons are at TDC but no. 1 is at top of compression stroke and ready for spark and no.6 is at the start of the intake stroke. Regardless of how the oil pump and distributor is installed the rotor should point to the dist. cap tower that goes to the no.1 spark plug.

I had a date with a girl named Margaret. She had a "peg" leg. We went dancing. I spun her the wrong way and she got taller.

What Sam Buchanan said. Necessity is the mother of invention.

The above regulator would give me pause. On the front plate it says "NEG". This would indicate to me it is for a negative ground system. My memory tells me all Chevy cars were negative ground. It supposedly came off a '53 Chevy. I'm assuming your Plymouth is "POS" ground. Electricity baffles me....not sure this regulator will work on a "POS" ground system. Regards.

My shop manual has 5 pages with information about the generator regulator. Do you have a shop manual? If my memory serves me correctly I had a similar problem to yours. I had added a voltmeter to my dash guages and it read a little over 6 volts with engine running and nothing electrical on. Based on what I could decypher from the manual, I pulled the cover on the regulator and increased the spring tension on the center coil. Now have voltmeter reading of about 7.5 volts.

Looking at the photos and seeing the spark plug hole directly above one of the valves ...I'm guessing the ground electrode hanging into the combustion chamber has been taken into consideration.

My Plymouth Service Manual that covers 1946 to 1954 in the Engine Data and Specifications Chart gives a valve lift of 3/8 inch. for all models P-15 to P-25 engines. (217.8 cu.in. piston displacement )

The rusty connection of the blue wire to the generator would give me concern. High resistance gives high heat. Those two studs/screws coming out of the generator are to be insulated from the body of the generator. I would remove both wires from the generator and check to make sure there is no continuity between the screws/studs and the body of the generator. If there is continuity there are insulating washers and bushings on these studs that may have broken down and need repair or replacement.

Years back, maybe 10 or so, I had luck getting a cluster gear for my '49 B1B truck from Northwest Transmission Parts, Winchester, Ohio. Easy to work with and reasonable. I was able to "trade in" my old part towards the replacement.