squirebill

Penetrating oil, propane, percussion, patience and perseverance. Congratulations and Merry Christmas to you.

Further to my last: The title of your original post answers my question "Oil leaking from behind crank pulley". They say at my age Memory and reading comprehension are the second and third things to go. Hope the information above may be useful anyway. Also, if you do have to use a speedisleeve, use some gasket sealer when installing the sleeve on the hub. Regards

Does the oil leak look like it is coming from the back side or front side of the damper pulley? Reason I ask is because when I was assembling up my freshly machined short block I think I may have found another possible oil leakage path in this area. Seems to me if the mating surface of the nose of the pulley hub with the face of the timing sprocket is not exact, oil could get between them and and find a path along the shaft keyway and out at the very end of the crank shaft. Granted there is a slim chance of this since the nut and washer is very tight but a chance none the less. I smeared the front of the timing sprocket and the very end of the crankshaft with gasket sealer before assembly. Also as stated above, if the OD of your damper hub is grooved an item called Speedisleeve is available to repair. I had to use one and it worked great. Regards.

I'm guessing an engineering ooops. I worked in the engineering department at a OEM for aircraft support equipment . Parts called "spacers" or "shims" etc were frowned upon . Indicated the mating parts weren't properly dimensioned and required spacers or shims. Guessing if you called the spacer or shim a "reinforcement" that would be warranted and OK.

Redmond49: although my Service manual and Parts book doesn't show this part, my parts book calls out for 2 of them. One on each side I'm guessing.

Helped me a lot. I have two of these floating around in a parts box somewhere because I didn't know where they belonged on the '49 Suburban. The engine and clutch was disassembled by the previous owner and in parts when I bought it. This part is not pictured in my Service manual or Parts manual. Thanks and Regards.

Trying to wrap my head around your situation. You have located #1 TDC by checking compression at #1 (tissue paper) and top of piston stroke using #6 piston. Marks on crankshaft pulley are "no where near" where they should be. If you had to estimate, how many degrees off are the timing marks on the pulley away from the pointer on the timing gear cover? What did you verify with the timing light? That the timing light works properly or that somehow now the timing marks on the pulley are correct. As stated above by web master: next is to check proper valve timing wrt piston position. With #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke both valves should be closed. Pretty sure valves are visible through the spark plug hole. Are they both closed? My thinking is that the timing marks on the pulley really have nothing to do with the actual running of the engine. If the crankshaft and camshaft are properly timed and the spark happens at the proper time with proper carburetion, the engine should run. Sounds like it does or did although poorly from improper spark timing causing Backfire through carb and exhaust. So, when you are at #1 TDC and lift the distributor cap, where is the rotor pointing? It really doesn't matter as long as the spark plug wire on the cap above the end of the rotor goes to the number one spark plug. Then verify from the #1 wire the other wires in a clockwise direction follow the firing order. Please advise. Merry Christmas and best regards.

Using water is a clever idea. Have some experience with thermal shock blowing friction material off wet aircraft brakes. Will try if a situation arises. FYI: a seller on Ebay has the long brake anchor brake in new condition for $55.00 each including shipping. Think that is why I cobbled up a replacement bolt myself. Regards.

Were you able to get the nut off the end of the bolt? I spent three days on the same bolt on my '49 B1B. I couldn't get the nut off. Tried everything I could think of including various penetrating oils, heat with MAPP gas, then spraying penetrating on it while still hot. Finally used a 24" pipe wrench on the nut. Wrenched the nut and twisted and broke the bolt. More penetrating oil and heat then hammer and punch then c clamp, etc. Finally came out. Stick with it. It will eventually come out even if it is in pieces. Problem is finding a replacement. For a temporary fix I cobbled a replacement bolt together. Working well. Still in there until I find a replacement. I don't drive the truck often. Last time was the 2019 4th of July parade.

If you opt to remove and reinstall the oil pump: If my memory serves me right, when the oil pump is installed correctly, the slot in the oil pump shaft is horizontal when viewed through the distributor hole. Regards.

Looks like your oil pump was installed 2 gear teeth off from where it should be to have the rotor end up at the standard position (7 o'clock position with number 1 piston at top dead center (TDC)). You have a choice. 1. Remove the oil pump and install it correctly according to the service manual. OR 2. Leave it as is. Verify you are at TDC of the compression stroke of No.1 cylinder, install the distributor cap and install the plug wire from No.1 spark plug to the distributor cap tower at the 4 o'clock position. Then the rest of the plug wires installed per the firing order in a clockwise direction from the No.1 wire. Number 2 choice will put the ignition system in proper "time" but will not be per the "service manual standard" of having the number 1 plug wire at the 7 o'clock position on the distributor. Regards.

Might try to unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. Should be enough slack in the hose to pull it out far enough to get a wrench on the hose fitting and take the wheel cylinder off. That should then allow you to get the backing plate off. If your going to replace the hose (highly recommended), cut through the hose fitting hex as close to the frame as you can as seen in the second picture. With a punch, knock the remainder of the hose fitting free of the frame. This should give you access to the hose fitting/ hard brake line connection so it can be disassembled. My 2 cents. Regards

My reference materials have no listing for a 288....a typo maybe?

So if I read this right in the original post: the heavy cable going to the starter connects to the positive battery terminal. If this is a positive ground system, the cable coming from the positive battery terminal should be attached to the ground system, i.e. to the engine block. A cable from the negative battery terminal should then be connected to the large terminal on the starter.

This is an old thread. I found it by searching "Clutch engagement". I am currently having the same problem with my '49 Suburban. I have to "feather" the clutch to start out in first gear. Have verified none of the service brakes or emergency brake are not dragging. Did you ever come to a conclusion on what was causing the problem? Best regards.

Great list. I understand you had your valve system done at a machine shop and all is in good order. Would however suggest you add a check box somewhere before you install the valve covers, head, and manifolds stating something like: Verify valve system is complete and valves properly set/gapped. Also, would recommend you install a temporary oil pressure gauge and a way to measure water temperature.(gauge, thermometer,etc). Will need a start motor switch, start motor solenoid and an ignition coil on/off/kill switch (key ignition switch will do or individual switches as required ). Also recommend having a fire extinguisher handy. Best regards. Enjoy the holiday , travel safe, and stay healthy

Proving who did what and when could be an issue in court. Would hope it wouldn't go that far. In my head though, if I took a car to a shop for muffler work and it is returned making more noise now than when I took it in, would seem obvious that something went wrong at the shop. Either faulty parts or faulty workmanship or both. As I see it, the car owner has very little leverage at this point. His car is still at the shop! As stated above the car owner should get the car home, complete with the new parts the shop installed and now the car owner has some leverage especially if he paid by CC. He can dispute the charge through the CC company until he is satisfied with the shops service. If he paid by check, he can stop payment on the check. If he paid by cash at least his has his car with the new parts. With the car still in the shop, he has nothing to show for his payment except a noisier car on someone else's property and no leverage.

Like stated above, "Get the car back."!!!! Find the problem and if it is simple, fix it yourself. Should have all new parts and all the hard work is done, i.e. loosening manifold bolts, etc. If paid by CC, dispute the charge., then they get nothing until you are satisfied. If you find they really screwed something up (broken manifold, etc.) See where they stand on setting things right. If not satisfied with their efforts , leave the disputed charge as is., they get nothing. If they are willing to make things right and do so at no charge, you might consider just paying them for the new muffler and pipes, but not for the screwed up labor and the parts they screwed up..

FYI......every once in awhile the memory wires connect in an old mans head. The mounting screws for the sun visors in my '49 parts book are #8-32 x 5/8" machine screws, slotted. oval head, chr. pltd. "Slotted" in this case means 'Phillips Head" slotted....at least that's what was on my car. I thought the 3 screws on the drivers side were loose. Turns out one was OK and two were stripped out. I drilled and tapped for #10-32 machine screws. What I don't know is if the holes are drilled and tapped when the car leaves the factory without visors (as in your case) or if they get drilled and tapped when the sun visors are ordered either at the assembly plant or the dealership. Anyhow, I was surprised they were not mounted with sheet metal screws like they used for the inside windshield mouldings . Regards.

Further to my last: My flea market find visor arms with masonite board but no fabric, all have #1246171 cast on the back of the triangular mounting plate. So I'm guessing this mounting plate plus the arm, spring, and spring retaining washer, all with their own P/Ns, make up the 1246170 ARM Assembly.

For Part # 1246170 my '49 parts manual calls out a quantity of "2" for each model, so no left/right. Same part number for both sides. This part number is listed as "ARM, Visor, Assembly (includes BRACKET)". There are 9 different "PANEL, Visor Trim, Assembly" to cover the 7 different models of '49 Plymouth all with QTY of "2" so again , no left/right. Same part # on both sides.

In the Engine section of the Service Manual a cutaway view shows it flush with the end of the crank shaft.

billrigsby......I admire your effort to develop this list. In no way am I trying to make anyone "feel stupid". I went through building up an engine in August of 2019 without a list and I was starting with a "short block" that had come from a machine shop. Seemed like there were a hundred little things that had to be done. I remember my concern was doing something and then having to undo it because I should have done something else first. A list with the proper sequence would have been great. The service manual gives a pretty good description of how to do things but doesn't really give it in a sequence. For example, the manual gives a good description of how to rebuild a water pump but does not mention how to install the water pump and where to use sealant when doing it. I don't believe the manual mentions installing the flywheel attaching bolts before you install the crank shaft in the block. Your list does this. I think the best part of your list will be the proper sequence of doing things so a builder wouldn't have to "back track". Imagine the frustration of building up an engine only to find there were no bolts in the crank shaft to mount the flywheel. A list including this kind of information it would be a great help to all. Keep plugging away. Best regards.

I see bolting sprocket on the camshaft so the camshaft was installed somewhere along the line but not listed. Also, don't see any intake or exhaust valves, guides, springs, keepers, lapping and gapping. Crankshaft belt drive pulley/vibration damper, water pump belt pulley and fan. Fan belt. Some fun, eh. Regards

Spark plugs? Did I miss them?