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rusty_apache

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rusty_apache last won the day on May 27 2022

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About rusty_apache

  • Birthday 09/06/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alamo city
  • Interests
    history, architecture, antiques, vintage RVs of all kinds
    I like leaving something much better than I found it.
  • My Project Cars
    '52 cranbrook club coupe w/32,000
    '60 Nash Metropolitan convertible
    '64 Spitfire
    '58 Apache
    '59 Viking 36 pupil Ward short bus
    They all run and are registered as antiques with year of manufacture plates.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Rusty is my old truck, I'm Kevin
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    Wilson county, Texas
  • Interests
    Antique machinery, Victorian era culture

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  1. Thanks DJ, It’s good to know not to torture it any further! I’ll just shove some rags in the gap and scrape off the crud instead of pressure washing it.
  2. Okay, I probably should have asked first but I was trying to accomplish something before posting a bunch of questions. So I separated the overdrive from the three speed, thinking it was like the Chevrolet setup and I could just grab it and leave the 3-speed in place. Now that I understand Mopar used a dedicated three speed I want to bolt the units back together to keep debris out of them as much as possible during cleanup. Unlike 33,000 mile “Ralph Cranbrook” the Belvedere has 116,000 along with the obligatory baked on grease/gravel/sand. I’ve tried shifting into all the gears and neutral and have spun both shafts as well as throwing the overdrive cable arm in both directions and paid close attention to the shift rail stubs that stick out of the overdrive. It originally separated about an inch or so and I was able to get it to mesh back together except for about 1/4”. I installed the bolts to hold it together but the input shaft begins to bind when I barely tighten the bolts. Could it be that I need to operate the O/D pawl to get the cases to close? It’s 100 degrees out right now so I’m not going to test the theory until dark:30. I did watch the 1952 training slideshows and they were a great help understand Mopar’s approach. I’m going to go through the 1953 starter because I believe Ralph has the unimproved starter bendix. I also have been doing some digging and found Mr. Douglas’ PDF of the parts list so my local bearing supplier will appreciate that! I also picked up on another comment about Studebaker using the same unit. I have an extra Deluxe Starlight coupe for parts so if need be I can possibly use it’s overdrive components.
  3. I’ve picked up a few skills like mounting solid rubber tires to highwheel rims with heavy wire, and steaming hoops to take most of the the warpage out of them. Here’s the latest addition that I got at auction in San Marcos Tx. 1904 Pierce model 501 this one is original down to the spokes. The rims are laminated wooden coils whereas most manufacturers used solid hoops with finger joints. The tires and seat are period correct replacements.
  4. It’s a wholly different skill set!!! I was dragged into the 21st century and am not particularly a willing participant!?
  5. Thanks, I enjoy revitalizing old bikes too. Yes, I’ve been in the club for a few years although I haven’t been to a meet since 2018.
  6. Thanks for the information guys! It’s a great help.
  7. I was hoping the 1952 had an ample transmission hump and it wouldn’t need surgery! So the 1952 three speed can be used along with the overdrive or do I need to use the 1953?
  8. I’m in the process of removing the relay, cable assembly, carburetor switch and overdrive unit from my 1953 parts car to install in my 1952 Cranbrook club coupe. It looks pretty straightforward other than the hole in the transmission hump for the Governor assembly. I believe that I can retain the 32,000 mile 1952 three speed and simply add the overdrive in place of the tailpiece, but wanted to check with you knowledgeable people to be certain that is possible. I’m also wondering if the 1953 carburetor kickdown switch mounts work on the 1952 carburetor? Any words of caution or advice would be greatly appreciated!
  9. Here’s my regular rider. It’s a 1902 American cycle co. Wasp. It has hickory rims, glued on tubular tires, no brakes and I regularly take it camping and on trails. sorry I can’t rotate the images….
  10. Here’s my bicycle. It’s currently on display at the Texas Transportation Museum. 1877 Coventry Machinists Co. Gentlemans roadster 52” wheel.
  11. An errant mud dauber’s nest took out my generator brushes once. They could have been hanging in there for decades but one day they “ came a loose”. It also might be some other sort of insect pupa.
  12. Just a quick thanks to the participants in this thread. I found the spark plug part numbers I was looking for and no longer live with the guilt of not having bought ever dry plug wires. ....now it’s time to put some sealant in the hood seam!
  13. I put wide whitewalls on just about EVERYTHING! Ralph has gum dipped Deluxe Champion Firestones with the pie crust sidewalls. I have this urge to set aside the full wheel covers for some Concord dog dishes and ribbed beauty rims. It's nice to know what he would look like repainted, since that's a long way off.
  14. If you do opt for 7.60-15 you will also find it's like adding powered steering because of their smaller surface contact. They are perfectly tuned for the fabulous boat like ride, body roll in cornering and the drum brakes. I just allow more space than with my "modern" '91 LeBaron with T/A radials.
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