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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. Jeff Balazs
    Sorry no pictures. It does have a rectangular slot machined into it. So it is very easy to position the rotor 180 degrees off from the factory preferred position. Jeff
  2. Jeff Balazs
    I would be interested if they can bring back Ann-Margret as she was back then. Otherwise it is just another car show......
  3. Jeff Balazs
    You do not need to withdraw the oil pump. All you need to do is remove the distributor mounting bolt and lift the distributor up about an inch. Then you will be able to rotate the rotor shaft clockwise 180 degrees and lower it back into the slot and tighten the bolt back up. All that is left to do is to move all the plug wires clockwise in the cap over 3 spots each. And finally start it up and check your timing. Jeff
  4. Jeff Balazs
    FWIW I have the gasket from Steele and it did not fit all that well. Too small. Leaked like a sieve until I went around it with 3M glass putty. What a nightmare that was !!!! Got it to stop leaking but that stuff was no fun to work with. Jeff
  5. Jeff Balazs
    There is a very practical reason for this. Rain water etc......needs to be able to drain out. I have seen vintage pick-up over builds that don't allow standing water to drain out. A recipe for rust and rot if there ever was one. Jeff
  6. Jeff Balazs
    Seems correct if you are south of the Equator ???
  7. Jeff Balazs
    Man is that truck beautiful ! You are so lucky you get to enjoy this with your father. Jeff
  8. Jeff Balazs
    Curious Paul......did you use any sort of compound when you put the metal ones in originally? I was taught to always use Indian Shellac on these when I worked in a garage years ago. Jeff
  9. Jeff Balazs
    ??? Wise Way Tu is from out east if I am not mistaken.......way out east.
  10. Jeff Balazs
    My only real friend.........and he may be jivin too.
  11. Jeff Balazs
    No doubt.........but then again maybe you have just been lucky. Plus in Paul's case there could have been heat damage. I do know that as these wear and get dirty they can cause a problem with resistance and heat. Not worth the risk...IMO. New doesn't necessarily mean better........we all need to watch that these days. Jeff
  12. Jeff Balazs
    I have done this too on a more modern vehicle and it lasted many years. But with the age of these tanks a clean internal coating is a prudent step to reduce potential fuel system issues. Jeff
  13. Jeff Balazs
    The heater fan and your old instruments are likely to be 6V still.......these will need some consideration if they are. Jeff
  14. Jeff Balazs
    Hopefully you have put a new switch in that is of good quality. One thing I have learned over the years is to never trust old ignition switch's. Jeff
  15. Jeff Balazs
    I am holding out for the New adventures of Dolly Dodge
  16. Jeff Balazs
    Suggest you call the local radiator shops. Some of them may be able to help you. My local shop cleaned repaired and coated mine for $200. Well worth it to have it almost new again. Jeff
  17. Jeff Balazs
    When I was a kid I worked in a big repair garage. The line mechanics there did hundreds of valve jobs there every year. They were all old timers and by this point all used coppercoat and swore by the stuff. Over the years so have I and I have never had any regrets about using it. Follow the sequence and you should be fine. It is a good idea to retorque a few times after the initial round and the engine has gone through several heat cycles. Make sure you re-check the manifold bolts too. Jeff
  18. Jeff Balazs
    Or you could get at it from underneath with a length of 1 x 1 and a small hammer. Another option would be to apply some heat at the mounting location. Probably wouldn't need much....maybe a couple of heat cycles and a tap or two? It is probably just rusted up some. Jeff
  19. Jeff Balazs
    Should be 1/4" front and rear. If you are staying with the stock brakes then this is what you need. If you are making mods (disc's and dual chamber M/C) then most likely you will want 3/16". Jeff
  20. Jeff Balazs
    One way you can handle this if it is a single wire unit is to just use your old regulator as a terminal block. At the regulator there is a terminal with a wire back to the ammeter. Just connect the alternator lead to this same terminal and you should be good to go. Jeff
  21. Jeff Balazs
    Hmmm.........the term Roach Coach has always meant a greasy spoon food truck to me.
  22. Jeff Balazs
    Do you have the literature on this Mallory system. Could it be an extended duration type system?........if so that may also be the problem. Getting a extended spark system timed correctly may be next to impossible on an engine like this. Jeff
  23. Jeff Balazs
    Guy's this is just the way of the world these days. It has been going on here for the last 25 years. All the Mom and Pop's get pushed out to make way for corporate crap & nonsense. I say scr@w um!........and don't spend any of your money at these chains. I'd rather go hungry myself than to go to Subway. Jeff
  24. Jeff Balazs
    Me too. Guess it is good I had much better luck with the Pertronix.......'cause I sure as heck don't trust the points I tried. And that included some by Standard. One thing that is interesting is how we can all have different experiences dealing with the same problems. Jeff
  25. Jeff Balazs
    I get the reliability thing. My truck is my daily driver. One question......was your kit the type that used a magnetic sleeve? Some do...some don't depending on the model distributor on your engine. My Pertronix is the sleeve variant......and it has been flawless. Much better than the points I fussed with at first. Have heard that the type that doesn't use the magnetic sleeve can be problematic......? Jeff
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