austinsailor

Looks backwards to me. I can get a picture of the inside of mine this afternoon. I'm guessing it'll look a whole lot like your outside.

Depends on how old and stiff fit is.I put a new one in mine recently and I find it hard to believe they got it in backwards. Well, I guess anything is possible, it would be difficult. They must have put it in from the outside instead of from the inside. I'd love to see a closeup picture of how it fits. Here is mine shortly after instsalling it.

Recently I bought a set of Calli wide whitewall tires. I could find nobody who had used them and I said I'd report back once I got them. They are mounted, not being driven on yet. But, I can give a preliminary report. I suspect it will take months or maybe years to tell more. The other similar tire is Diamondback. They both take a production tire, rough up the side and apply a whitewall to it. Both say they vulcanize it, not sure what the difference is between glue and vulcanize, but stuck pretty good. Diamondback has a better finish. Calli is cheaper. Calli will tell you they occasionally have a defect in the white, sometimes a small bubble. Mine had none. The edge of the white on the calli tire is not finished, it's just a white, square edge. Has a cheap look to it, looks a lot like the old port-a-walls, I think they called them, the ones you put on a blackwall tire that went in with the bead and laid against the tire. It also has the wire brush or grinder marks where they roughed up the tire showing about 1/2" to 1" past the white. Diamondback is very similar, it just has a black finshed edge on the white and no grinder marks. Diamondbacks cost about $50 more per tire, so it's a tradeoff. More than 10 feet away, you might not even see it. Driving down the street, I know you wouldn't. It was hard to get good pictures, but you can get an idea. Top is the Diamondback, bottom is the Calli.

This is the Cleveland u joint, the earlier one. Used to be nearly impossible to find. Now you have 2 sources.

No, full load coming back. 2 cars and a garage full of parts.

p/n 1238415 (the chart above is hard to figure out)

You'd have to change the driveshaft as well.

They changed mid year, from what I understand. A quick look will tell you. Cleveland ones have a spring clip on the outside of each cup (4 clips per joint, 2 bolts per clip) and a round ring where each cup is driven into. Completely different than most. If you're not sure, post a picture.

Sometime in about 30 to 60 days I'm heading from central Missouri to Stocton, California with a big empty (well, almost - I'm talking a Crosley out) trailer to get a load of micro cars I've bought. If someone has a vehicle they need hauled west along that route let me know. A little gas money would be nice, but no charge as long as I don't have to go far out of my way. It needs to roll, but not run. I do have a winch. Trailer is big enough I could haul a truck.

these are completely different, nothing else will fit. Explorer swap solves one end. Transmission end is still a problem, although I would guess you could swap the output from another year's transmission.

That was a tough part to find, not many around. I bought an old stock one for my '48 B1B about 5-6 years ago, took a long time to find, cost over $100. Recently Roberts listed this. I bought one, they are new, not old stock. I don't know if Roberts is having them made or just stocking them from some manufacturer who did a run of them, but it's great to see a basic part for our trucks reappear. $75 for a basic u joint may sound high for a part that should have been $20, but in the big picture - it's great! If there are other sources, please let us know.

You could, but I don't see Cleveland u joints listed.

http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/universal-joint-cleveland-type-dodge-truck-12-and-34-ton-1946-1950-1

Go to a drive shaft shop with about $300 to $400 and some measurements.

On these there is quite a run from the carb to the intake of the motor. Before it starts it must get fuel mixture through all that piping. I wonder if it affects cranking time when you start the motor? I'm guessing not much. Anyone know?

I'm wondering how it's driven. Complete change of direction and plane from the crank and pulley system.

Head to Australia and get one!

My parents bought a 59 Plymouth station wagon new. It had no outside mirrors. The dealer installed them, aftermarket ones, and for the 4 years we had that car, Dad complained every day that you couldn't see anything with them. it was a pair, they were mounted about half way up the front fenders on top of the fender. Looked cool, but worthless.

I did it on a 1 ton Fargo, weld tabs on the motor mounts, find a radiator hose to make up the difference, maybe put a spacer on your fan and you should be there. Easier than going from a short motor to a long one.

Wrong cap can cause other problems, too. In another life I was a motor Sargent in a small motor pool. Unknown to me, The Colonel's driver lost the gas cap on his staff car - a Ford Fairlane, I think - and just replaced it with whatever he could find. A couple days later he ran out of gas with the Colonal in the back seat. They raised hell with me that I wasn't maintaining the car, since he's just filled it up and the mileage had gone to hell. Pulled it over the pit and, low and behold, the gas tank was flat as a pancake. He'd replaced the vented cap with a non-vented one and the fuel pump has sucked that tank flat.

Lowriders are not my style, but those guys do some damn nice work. And find all the aftermarket gadgets. And, yes, post 190 is a Chrysler Airflow.

Yes, I wanted to see him on the road. Also sold him a good for radiator $50. Put him on the road.

Guess I messed up. Couple years ago I took a pair, sandblasted them, filled pits, primed and gave them to an older guy in the area that needed them. Didn't realize I was giving away gold!

The kids have another choice - they can walk away and ignore all of it. Nothing says they have to claim or clean up your - our - messes. It's their choice.

I've found a ton of stuff through craigslist. '36 Desoto Airflow, 51 Fargo 1 ton pickup with a hoist, 331 ci big 6 truck motor, t bucket, overdrive for my 40 Dodge ($300), 49 b1b chassis, running and drivable, ($150). And much more. If you're not finding anything, you're not looking!