austinsailor
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Everything posted by austinsailor
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It's really a little bit more than a pain - it's not even a shift knob. On this one the whole arm is one metal piece with molded plastic over it. I have two 4 door '40 dodges, both are bad and I have not found a source. Guess I'll turn a piece of wood and slip over it.
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I wore out a chain on a '55, took the one off a blown '40 block. The chain was different, but swaping gears and all as set worked fine.
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I had lines made with the flexible hoses and stainless steel braid, stainless fittings. You could make them any length - put it on the fenderwell, firewall or trunk. I had mine made by a guy who makes them for race cars. He put exactly the correct fittings, angled as I asked and all. About $70 for a set and they look stunning.
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Darn, I found this one day late. I just machined my old pulley to fit the alternator yesterday. Would have been simpler to just buy this one. I've looked for a 5/" pulley for this thing for a month. Why does it always work this way??
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I once had a 55 ply 6 that had exactly this problem. I finally found that the ground strap between the engine and frame wasn't making connection. I can't explain why it would do that, but it was just the same as you describe.
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Just for the record - there are a few of us who have the REALLY big engine - like my 331CI big six in a '47 3 ton truck. (30" head)
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I've used it to soak pistons that had frozen rings. When starting, the rings seemed welded into the pistons. A week or two soak, occasionally attemting to move pistons, will eventually get all the old carbon and gum out. I've salvaged old, non replaceable pistons this way. My brother has used it in motorcycles straight into the carb while running and it's helped rough running motors. I found that it removed gum type deposits quiclky, and softened carbon very slowly - over many days. It didn't just desolve it even soaking in pure sea foam. My experiences would seem to indicate that it would be of marginal help with carbon, but a lot of help with gum deposits.
