austinsailor

Is there anything on this list you can use? http://austinsailor.net/parts/PISTONLIST.html

I'm not recommending you do this, but back in the 60's I blew the original motor in my 40 Plymouth. An older friend had a 39 Plymouth that he'd parked and gave me the motor. The motor had been overhauled in a trade school a few years before. When I put a head gasket in it I discovered that it had 3 different size Pistons. Seems like 2 .030, 2 .040, 2 .060. Ran fine, was still on the road several years after I sold it. (For $50, by the way!)

It would be cheaper by far to bore to .060 over than to sleeve. Sleeve is around $100 per hole at my local shop, boring was around $30 last time I had one done. Custom pistons are going to be $100 or so. Each.

I have a receiver hitch on my 1940 Dodge. I'm many miles from it or I would send pictures. It was built and installed by Spiller Custom Hitches, Austin, Tx for about $300 15 years ago. Works quite well. Basically, there is a 1 1/4" reciever up under the bumper. It's back far enough and high enough that you can't normally see it. The ball mount (piece with the trailer hitch ball on it) goes out, then curves up, so that when installed the top of the ball is about flush with the top of the bumper. there are 2 cross pieces below, going just below the tank and frame. Those have flat bars bent to fit (2 each side) to the outside of the frame. Pictures would help a lot. Please note: Most collector insurance policies will not cover pulling trailers. Worse, you'll be cancelled. If they see the hitch in the photos you send, most won't write the policy. When I talked to Hagerty about this, I told them I'd read my policy and it mentioned nothing about pulling trailers. They said that on the initial application one question was "will you pull a trailer". If you answered yes, they would not sell you insurance. If you answered no and ever did, it is fraud and your policy was "void from inception", there are a few that will cover pulling a trailer. Ask before hand.

Sorry, that wasn't what I thought I'd copied. Phone has been doing some tricks lately, this must have been one of them. I'll find them again and make another try.

Great idea. Went straight to Epay, found a pair, they are on the way. Now to find the modern reflectors. What should I be looking for? will these work? http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_pictures.php?detail=205&no_redirect=true

Check closely before removing those strips. The new ones might be designed to go over the old ones. My dad did this with his 41 Chevy. Cut, cold chiseled and ground the old ones off. In doing it, he put wrinkles in the sheet metal. When he went to put on the nice new stainless ones he found they were designed to just go over the old, creating even more work installing them.

Sure. Mine have been on 5 years.

I read your post again and still am not sure the details, but it sounds like you're wanting to go from a non-overdrive to overdrive. Someone who knows for sure jump in here, but I seem to recal that '57 on did not use the selector type shift linkage. This would mean that using a transmission from a pre 57 would also require changing the shift linkage. Can someone verify this?

I'd wrap them in wax paper, maybe celephane of some type. Then take a $3.99 can of spray foam from Home Depot or Lowes, then fill the box with the foam. You need to wrap them with the wax paper or otherwise or the receiver will neve get the foam off. Like me someone else said, though, I'd use a bigger box. I'd want some foam all around and not let the glass touch the box.

Following on, I tried the RTV on the regular windows as well. I let the first one cure overnight, it pulled out uncured the next day. Later, I did it again. 2 days later it pulled out, still not cured enough. So, if you try it on a regular window channel on the bottom of a door glass, plan on an extended cure time. It goes maybe 3/4" deep from the air so cures very slowly.

I have a couple gallons at home I bought recently (within the last year). I'm not home now, but I'll try to call them tomorrow if I can remember and get a stock #. i paid around $12 - $13 a gallon, I recall a previous discussion on this board where a NAPA somewhere wanted something like $40 a gallon. Rear axle oil should be no problem, any modern hypoid rated oil should be fine. If anyone knows of a reason to be concerned about using modern oil ( GL5?) in the rear axle please sound off!

Gl1, available at MAPA and others, is correct for the transmission. It is not for the differential, you need something rated for the hypoid gears. I think the sometimes call it high pressure lubricant, but the gl1 isn't it for the rear end.

I'm stunned you're having this much problem. I take a set into my local machine shop, pick them up in a day and for around $25 labor they are always done and done right. Are there just no shops left that do anything?

By vent glass, I assume you are talking about the triangular glass in the front of the door. Here's another option. First, I think the glass shop uses some heat process to cure what they use, similar to the metal on the bottom of the door glass. But, regardless, 15 years ago I installed mine by taping everything off, using black RTV, silicon type stuff, setting it in that. Wiped the silicon down, remove the tape, give it about 2 days to cure. It still looks professional 15+ years later.

Price? $100? Maybe. You'll spend $2000 plus to rebuild it, might have nothing there to rebuild in the end. If if your goal is to have a running 251, spend $250 for one that is and at least you'll know you'll have something.

Last time I got a set from NAPA they charged me about double what I thought it should have been. Be sure to compare prices before special ordering

I thought this was interesting: http://allteresting.com/witness-the-magic-of-the-internal-combustion-engine-in-this-4k-slo-mo-video/?pa=tech&g=3

Well, then! The guy who was interested in my car is probably going to have to get over it. I doubt he'll find one if only 5 exist. I sent the link to his son - he doesn't have email. I'll have to call him in a few days after it's had time to get to him. thanks for the info.

I kind of thought town sedan was the name, but I've seen some normal suicide door cars here called town sedans, thought I was wrong. I guess they were. But, did Plymought make them as well, or only the high priced lines?

I considered selling my 42 Plymouth 2 door to a fellow, but decided I'd keep it. But, what he really thinks he wants is as 42 Plymouth 4 door without suicide doors. I know I've seen some Chryslers and maybe Dodges that fit this description, but don't recall seeing Plymouths. Did they even exist? What do they call these anyway?

from a quick use of the search function: 814-354-2621

Pretty cool if it works!

Shell has a couple Rotellas products that still have zinc. They sell an old "F" version, I think, in gallons at Walmart and other places. Read the label, they call it for older cars or something like that. The normal Version J Shell Rotella has little zinc now. . They also sell s version H for 2 cycle diesels, but I've only seen it in 55 Gallon drums.

Sure sounds like it.