austinsailor

Looks like this old thread is still alive! Here's my Boss Hoss, 355 HP 350, wearing her new metalflake.

I’m the original poster but have no idea what you are referring to. One of the two pictures in my first post? They were just close up views of where the reverse rod goes on the bottom left rear of the case. if you look at the picture of it on the pallet, it’s sticking out just under the right bottom of the side cover.

Well, crap! The reverse shifter arm is also broken. I hope it hit the guy’s toe when he dropped it!

It’s not a toploader.

External linkage, overdrive. Gain 20 mph on the highway. Built Dec 1970.

Aluminum, 23 spline. Guts look real good, but will probably be putting in new bushings, at least on the countershaft, since it’s coming apart.

I just acquired an A-833 4 speed overdrive, thinking of putting it into my 36 Desoto Airflow. Shouldn't be that much different than other mopars of that era. Anyone done it? First glance, pattern appears to be quite a bit different, probably needs an adapter. The bearing retainer is probably a different diameter. Won’t know for sure until I pull the old one. i’ll have to strip the transmission and repair the case before I get too far along. Seems the shipper, besides losing it for 5 weeks, dropped it and broke it around the reverse shift shaft!

Saw a 2CV in Germany that sideswiped a Duce and a half - scattered shrapnel for 100 yards! Didn't Know 1 car could be torn into so many pieces!

Yep, it’s going in my 36 DeSoto Airflow bolted to an R10. The floor shift conversion for the overdrive is a little different than the non-OD unit. One could be converted to the other with some sawing and welding.

I’m sure this is an old topic, I’ve been trying to search for ideas on a simple way of wiring.up an R10. However, me and the search function don’t seem to understand each other. Tried overdrive wiring, “overdrive wiring”, overdrive and wiring, but no reasonable results. Regardless, if anyone can point me to a wiring diagram I’d appreciate it. i know of one installation where they have a toggle switch on the gearshift to split shift, sort of like a 2 speed rear. Something simple like that would be good. Is there anything out there?

I have no idea what state - or country - Palos Heights is in, but if you were close to me I’d say drive over and we’d use my factory brake adjustment tools to fix your problem - which is out of adjustment brakes.

How is it I never heard of this place?? going to be another weekend used up!

I sprayed a can of carb cleaner (basically acetone) through it after draining, should have removed some. We’ll see.

Thought I knew a bit about cars. Found out I have a few gaps in my knowledge. My 24 dodge brothers clutch was dragging and chattering when I take off. Thought resurfacing it was in order. Being a multiple disk clutch, similar to a motorcycle, I knew it was going to be a bit different. Come to find out the factory method to try first to solve this is - really - to plug the drain hole in the clutch housing, fill it with gasoline and run it a bit. Once someone showed me an actual copy of the manual I figured, what the heck, it’s worth a try. Plugged the drain hole, pulled the floorboards and the inspection cover. Then I poured in about half a gallon of kerosene. No way in hell am I pouring gasoline in it to be flung all over! Kerosene ran out numerous places and I fired it up. It was kind of like a pump gone berserk - spraying everywhere. Poured in more, ran it through the gears for a bit (rear was on stands) then shut it off. Pulled the plug, more kerosene ran out. I took it for a drive. I can now shift from neutral to any gear with no grinding. Very little chatter as I take off. Slips just a bit where it didn’t before, but that was less after a 3 mile drive. I suspect with gasoline it would leave the plates not so slippery, if you didn’t blow yourself up, but I think the kero will evaporate in a little time and be fine. What the heck will I learn next???

Looks like something i’d Drive - if it had been a Mopar!

Just speculating, but the rules and laws were very restrictive back then, along with some pretty cramped city streets.

I’m going to be spending some time in the Ft. Myers area. I thought it would be simple to see who might be around there who might also be interested in the old Mopars, but it wasn’t that simple. Only a few people show up on that mapping deal - non in that area - and if you search for people in Florida, most just say Florida. at any rate, we’re heading down this week to house hunt. As time goes on, i’ll Probably spend time there when it’s cold up here in Mo, and time up here when it gets hot down there. It it would be nice to find out what is going on in the old car world down there, particularly mopars.

Technically, a turbo charger is a specific type of supercharger, but it’s become so common to look at them as completely separated you can almost start fights trying to argue the point.

We have 5-9” predicted for tomorrow night. After a couple weeks of 50 to 60’s highs in January, this dose of reality is going to be tough!

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/?fbclid=IwAR32gY2KcZHQ7CTFvSrbzv72Nq-UA0-rB2pKYh8KYEH9mz0dS6lethJFoEs

2019 F550. Building a custom bed. I’m tired of wimpy trucks!

My 48 B1B had similar problems, just very slow cranking. I’d checked everything, including the guts of the starter. Cleaned the armature, brushes bearings and all. Cleaned connections. One day I got particularly fed up and just pulled the starter off another truck I had and presto - all was good, cranked very fast. might save yourself a lot of headaches if you just buy, borrow or steal another starter.

You guys sucked me in - mine should be here tomorrow.

$96.60, Amazon. Free shipping.