austinsailor

My 40' sailboat was right at ground zero when Harvey hit. What a mess. Mine stayed afloat, but was stuck on top of 2 more big sailboats. I managed to get her off and free at high tide, but she was dismasted (they are in the waster somewhere) and had several big places there the hull was broken. Oh, well. It was just a boat, not my body!

This fellow has rebuilt 3 radios for me, very good work and reasonable prices. He's retired from something else and is a radio nerd, loves working on them. I recommend him. http://southtexasantiqueelectronics.com

Yes, and there are about 500 articles to read! You might be awhile.

Just looked up the California law, you can if you have suitable restraints installed. (Seatbelts)

Some parts are interchangeable. Pistons if the same bore, oil pump, I think flywheels, bell housings.

Supposed to be the first production car to raise the front wheels. Sure thought I saw hemi cars doing that in the early 60's. Maybe they had suttle modifications that made them not production. Or maybe they just didn't test for that or report it.

Take it all out and drill and tap the holes to a standard thread, put a bolt in? Or am I not getting it?

My opinion - do a decent job and your potiential customer base explodes. Value now depends greatly on condition it's in. Good average beat up driver $1500 - $2000? pretty nice truck, maybe $5000? someone who wants a reasonably nice hemi powered pilot house - $5000? someone step in and correct my guesstimates.

Interesting read, Tim. 2 comments. 1. I'm surprised they suggest cleaning with gasoline. Good way to blow you self and your shop up. You'd think this is so obvious that it doesn't need mentioning, but it's right there in print, and I see people doing it. I've also seen a garage burned down that way. 2. I'm not sure what year it changed, but on older boxes, like my 1940 Dodge, and 36 Desoto that screw only holds down the roller (sector). It doesn't have that plate with the stud shown so that the screw will raise it. The scew only pushes down. To remove play you have to pull the sector out and remove shims under it. Many people think all boxes are adjusted by turning the screw one way or the other. True on newer ones, including pilot house, not true on older boxes.

I've seen several, my brother had once in the 60's.

My son bought some Texas acreage and in the woods were 2 cabs in usable shape. Going back with a 4 wheeler soon and rescue them.

This one in the store on this site looks suspiciously like yours: http://p15-d24.com/store/category/13-engine-parts/

I don't recall unhooking a battery in a car with a generator while it's running, but I have with an alternator. It is correct that it needs an external power source to start, but once it starts charging it produces the power it needs to charge even if the battery is disconnected. I have done that quite a few times. i have to agree, though, that doing in on a modern system could very well cause spikes, etc and play hell with all sorts of electronics. A 60's or 70's car, no problem.

I know that can work with an alternator, it puts out at an idle. Generators generally don't make any juice at an idle, or so I thought. Guess I'll have to try it.

Chances are good you just need brushes, maybe $5. Get a set, some fine sandpaper to clean the armature and you are most likely off and running. Or, find an auto electrical shop and have them go through it. Not many around, but they still exist. Ask a farmer where they take theirs. Buying a rebuilt one is expensive and a real crap shoot whether you'll get one that will last. If you can even find one. Post where you are in Colorado and there's a chance someone can point you to a local electrical shop.

Valiant station wagon with a Barracuda grill?

Don't be too envious of my stainless on the grill - it's pretty dinged up and bashed to hell, just doesn't show in that picture.

I haven't see a decision on patina vs new paint, although it looks like you're going for patina. For what it's worth, my old 48 b1b draws more attention in it's as-found condition that it ever would restored nicely. That surprised me. An even bigger surprise is, women seem to be drawn to it far more than men. Go figure.

Paul, you may remember last night I suggested this is a project you should pass on. I'm glad others have chimed in with similar opinions. This is just more than you should take on at your age - hell, it's more than I should take on and you've got a half dozen years on me! I have no doubt you can find a running, or nearly running, similar car for a hell of a lot less money than you'd have in this just getting it on the road. Not finished in any way, just driveable. And that is not even thinking about all your labor. We should all keep our eyes open for something you want. If it's a 39 Chrysler and nothing else, let us know. If it's a late 30's Chrysler or Desoto, same deal. Someone will notice one. So, what are the specifications we should be looking for?

I have several brands, all water heated.

Rich, A year or maybe a bit more ago we did this. A fellow near Kansas City had a similar problem, maybe the guy you're talking about. Many kept trying to convince him it was a bleeding problem, although it was clear it wasn't. I contacted him by pm, offered my brake tools. Dropped them off on my way to Texas and explained how to use them. I stopped a week or two later on the way back to pick them up. His brakes were perfect after adjusting. What more can I say?

Previous posters talking about adjustment are correct. If, for example, if the heel is tight at the bottom before the entire shoe hits the drum, it will feel spongy as the top of the shoe tries to go out to the drum. Proper adjustment is everything. I seriously doubt air is your problem. We've had others on this board with the same symptoms, they've been given a dozen ways to bleed that never helped. Once they used the proper tool to adjust the brakes they had brakes like on a new car. Which brings me to the next point. In several instances I've loaned my tools to them to accomplish this. However, I can't find any location information in your profile. Were you close, I'd loan you mine, and if you were close to others, like Rich, for example, he'd loan you his. Others would as well, but they need to have some idea where you are to make it practical. Enough said.

I read through the answers thinking I might add something. Nope, every thought I had was covered! But - that looks to me like a cool low rider. Am I right? More pictures? Gotta have more pictures!