TodFitch

For Plymouth is is easy: 1935 and up into the 1960s there are synchros on second and third. Not sure when Detroit decided that synchros on 1st were a good idea but I know it was after '63.

When I lived in LA we had AC and the summer electrical bill was quite large. Where I am now there are only a couple days a year where AC would be nice. Generally opening the doors and windows when the afternoon breeze from the bay starts up is enough to keep things comfortable. Typical electrical bill for us is actually slightly higher in winter than summer as there are more hours where lighting is needed.

Hmmm. In my poorly insulated 1958 house with single pane floor to ceiling windows it cost us $310 in natural gas for last winter which includes the domestic hot water and running the gas dryer. Not a whole lot of labor turning the thermostat to the heat setting, certainly less than two days of labor for that. I guess I'll continue to live here with the dying landscaping in my yard waiting for the next earthquake.

Possibly, though ranchers used pickups and a lot of that desert is cattle range. I suspect that it is as much to do with population. In the PH era (late 40s to early 50s) the population of Arizona was less than 750,000 while its somewhere around 6,500,000 now Compare that to Minnesota with a 1950 population of 2,982,000 and a current population of 5,379,000. There were a lot more people to buy PH trucks, or cars of any kind, in Minnesota in 1950 than there were in Arizona.

Might want to look at these too: https://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936 https://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_2 https://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_3 https://archive.org/details/WheelsAc1936_4

Boy did it ruin a bunch of brass fittings until I learned that one. I can be a slow learner.

Brake lining to drum clearance specifications vary by year but I think the P15 era and a little later were 0.006" which, if I run my calculator correctly, is about 0.15mm. Not sure you can accurately measure that closely with your string and a little bit too much clearance on the major adjustors does make a big difference in the braking effectiveness.

I guess one could buy one like that. I started with one of these http://www.osh.com/Osh-Categories/Outdoor/Lawn-%26-Garden/Garden-Tools/Spreaders%2C-Sprayers-and-Parts/H-D-Hudson-Poly-Handy%3F-Sprayer%2C-0-5-gal/p/6783880and added a Schrader valve to the top side and then cut off the spray wand and created an adaptor for my master cylinder cap. My total cost was about 1/4 to 1/3 what the one you linked to costs. The reason for the Schrader (tire) valve was two fold: 1.I use DOT5 and did not want to have the built in pump bubbling air through the fluid as it would take forever for the air to come out. I don't think DOT3 would be as bad on that. 2. I can use my tire filling setup with its built in pressure gauge to fill the sprayer/bleeder and know what pressure I've got. In my setup it seems that 15 or so PSI is enough pressure to bleed the brakes.

You are new here, so you probably don't know the rule about placing buy/sell items in the classifieds. I'm locking this thread and it will likely be deleted in a few days. In the meantime, feel free to place this information as a free ad in the classified section.

That is a vacuum bleeder, just using the flow of air from your air compressor to create a vacuum via Venturi effect. And at $29 (non-sale) it does not seem like a very good deal to me. I made up a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer and some fittings for less than that but your cost may vary as part of it is coming up with a pressure tight way to attach it to your master cylinder and my '33/34 master cylinder is different from the later ones.

If it were 39 over 11 then it would make sense to me as 11 teeth on the pinion and 39 on the ring which, divided, would give 3.5454545454... or a 3.55 rear end ratio which is about what Desotodav said they were. It is my understanding that they make the pinion and ring gears such that the two numbers are not evenly divisible to equalize wear over all the teeth.

If you are getting your forecast from http://forecast.weather.gov/there is usually a link near the bottom of the page labeled "Forecast Discussion" where the real, live human that comes up with the official forecast puts their own comments. In my area, the people that do that tend to mention if the different computer models are tracking one another. My impression is that if all the models agree then the forecast is likely to be accurate. But if the models differ and the person just picked the result the they thought fit best then the forecast is likely to be inaccurate. I've even seen some times where the forecaster wrote that it was unclear what was going to happen and that maybe the next shift would get better data and/or a more consistent set of model runs.

All requests regarding buying or selling need to be placed in the classified section.

Venturi effect. With the end of the draft tube located on the right rear of the engine extending into the air flow under the car there will be a partial vacuum pulled on that tube. When the vehicle is moving that will result in the crankcase being a bit below atmospheric pressure which will draw fresh air in through the oiled wire mesh air filter built into the oil filler cap.

That is the first I've notice a date for the 2016 event. Is that a firm date?

Looking at the wheel/hub interface on both my '33 Plymouth and 2004 Prius it seems that the vertical load from the wheel to the hub is through the relatively tight fit of the wheel center onto a seat on the hub. If they weren't worried about it, why would they make it such a close fit that they have to do extra machining? The wheel lug bolts or lug nuts appear to be to clamp the wheel to the hub and to transfer rotational forces (acceleration/braking), not to actually support the weight of the vehicle.

Bolts tight but what about the condition of the rubber? Have they collapsed and changed the position of the transmission?

16" "Air Wheels" were optional in 1933 for Plymouth (these were actually wood spoked wheels). Steel "artillery style" 16" wheels were standard on the '34 PE (DeLuxe) models. So the 16" wheels predate 1935. Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, went back and forth between using left hand threads a couple of times. Some of the early 4 cylinder cars used left hand studs and nuts while my '33 and later 1930s cars used right hand thread bolts all around. From the parts book it looks like the left hand bolts came in to use in 1940 so I think the OP's '37 P4 probably has right hand bolts all around. Likewise, not all Plymouth hubs had locating pins. Mine does not. I don't see any indication of what models had that or not in the parts book. That could be a later 1940s thing as well. Edit: I see a "wheel hub pilot rivet" listed in the '36-48 parts book which I think is the locating pin. It shows that going back to '36 so there probably is a locating pin on the '37 P4.

Did they change the spelling? When I lived there it was spelled Calabasas.

From the factory (probably as a dealer install option) there were three different bypass filters: A sealed canister which is hard to find nowadays as WIX stopped making them about 15 years ago and two different housings one of which takes a paper filter (most common) and a different "heavy duty" one that takes the "sock type" filter. So if you have a Mopar replaceable element bypass filter it might take the sock element or it might take the paper element. All oil going into the filter bypasses the engine. If the flow is too high then the oil pressure could drop especially at idle. However on all the Plymouth engines built from near the end of 1933 on the return flow from the filter goes through a shut off circuit built into the pressure relief valve. The way that is set up, if the engine oil pressure drops too low the flow through the bypass filter is shut off.

Sigh, at over 300 posts you should know the rule about posting a want ad outside the classified area. So I'm locking this thread. But before I go I'll give you this link: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Disc-Wheel-Studs-HDPlus/_/R-TWRWA2592_0310569916

If you are looking to buy from a member, you need to post in the classified section. . . I'm going on the assumption here that you are asking for possible vendors so I'll leave this post be.

In the early part of my career I spend a little time in a factory that was building things for the military and nearly all connections were crimped. But the crimpers were not the type you'd buy at your local store as they had dies for exactly the connector they were to be used with and they were sent off for adjustment/calibration on a regular schedule to assure the crimping force was correct, the dies weren't worn or miss adjusted, etc. I suspect the auto industry is using specialty tooling and keeping it calibrated just as we did way back when. On the other hand, a bunch of the electrical problems I had with my '82 Plymouth when it was a few years old were due to bad crimps on the big bulkhead connector that took most of the wires in and out of the passenger compartment. So they weren't always doing a great job on crimping. For myself, I use a cheap hand crimper to get the terminal to stay on the wire just long enough to solder it. And I try to make sure that the solder does not wick up the strands of the wire which could stiffen it and make it susceptible to a fatigue failure.

Could it be an old battery to transmission ground strap that was replaced but left sitting on the frame and finally fell off?

My thought about a 20 or 30 amp switch was if it was on the charging circuit (going through the ammeter). If you have a battery disconnect, you will need a beefier switch. For example a P15 starter motor is rated a drawing up to 280 amps while the 49 and early 50s Plymouths are shown in my book as drawing 335 amps. If you are using a 200 amp disconnect switch on the battery it is under rated and should be swapped out. If you are add a wire directly from the regulator output to the battery you will be bypassing the ammeter so it will read 0 all the time. And if it is on the battery side of the disconnect you will be bypassing your disconnect and probably creating a fire hazard as the starter, if you try to use it, tries pulling several hundred amps through it.