Young Ed

The tricky part is that fuse only protected the lighting circuit. My car also has an inline fuse for the radio and another for the clock. Beyond that the rest is fuseless

How do you think I knew to warn you??? Its a fairly common thing

Yes it should as long as you don't forget to release it before driving. That's what kills these

Both. There are shops that will do it or you can buy the supplies. The lining is riveted on and it pretty straight forward to do. You will need to countersink the rivet holes a little. I get my supplies from brake and equipment warehouse here in Minneapolis. They will also do mail-order for either supplies or reline yours if you can't find something local.

What Rich mentioned is certainly possible but I would think highly unlikely that the engine hasn't had detergent oil in it if it's had even infrequent use in the last few decades. That being said I'd still be adding an oil filter if it was mine.

I've had my cowl lights as the signals for probably 10 years or more. I haven't noticed any issues of anyone not seeing them like I did before when I was using hand signals.

Now I'm down to decision time. I spent a bunch of time online searching and not finding a decent way to convert the cowl lights to dual filament. So either $60 for the conversion kit or I just leave them singles.

I get it for longer periods of non use but that seems like a lot of work for just a winter rest. I started my 48 this past weekend along with 5 other vehicles that hadn't been moved or started since last year. The only one that didn't start as if I had driven it the day before was the 69 sport fury. I had to tap the carb a few times to free up the needle valve

Anyone have a recommendation for applying wax a little faster than by hand? I've got 64 and 66 Plymouth station wagons both in need of a good shining up before the Plymouth national meet

Awesome job on the resto. Amazing the lense cleaned up like that. I didn't even try to clean mine and it actually cracked apart just using it to trace the new ones I cut.

I'll have to look closer for a number. I didn't notice one but I also wasn't looking. The trailer has had wheels/ tires with hubcaps so the bearings seem ok. I'm just tired of grease everywhere and the possibility of ruining a bearing

Sad news indeed. RIP

Anyone familiar with how these are measured? I've got a somewhat homemade trailer that I was given probably 20y ago and it's never had grease caps. Tired of the inside of the hubcaps being covered in grease along with it seeping out. I measured the ID of the hub at 2.25. How much of a friction fit am I looking for? I've seen 2.33 and 2.4 caps listed.

I got out my 2 parts books and they both just call it a 4spd. I didn't find any mention of who made it. They may not have wanted to call out that it was from an outside vendor

Looks like a 4 spd which was an available option. Dad's 40 Plymouth also had a 4spd but when we rebuilt it we swapped it to a 3spd and put the 4spd into the 46 dodge yard truck.

Installed. When the two bolts were tightened the back edge where the mount is came down a little. Hopefully a little pry bar action will get that back up where I want it

I've had these front signal lights for probably 10+ years but when I first got them I couldn't find a decent way to replace the lenses. A few weeks ago I came across them in the shop and gave it a second look. Found some gels on Amazon that seemed like they would work and gave it a shot. They were thin so I ended up with 4 layers but they seem to do the job. Next I didn't want to drill holes in the frame to mount them. So I went digging in the scrap pile and found a piece of a Weber gas grill that looked like it would work. Made 2 pieces that will attach under the front bumper bolts and put the lights back far enough to not be the first point of contact. Last night I touched up the paint and they are ready to install. All that's left is to make a spacer as the light hits the frame slightly and then wiring.

I would think you're close enough there. When my truck's pump died I got about a tablespoon

My 46-54 Plymouth manual says to disconnect at the carb and connect a short piece of hose to the line and place it into a container. Crank engine for 2 revolutions to prime pump and fill lines. Dump out the container and then crank engine for 15 pump strokes. You should get 5-6 ounces.

Idk it's weird for sure and it's only a car. My trucks still have bolts. If I had this problem I'd weld nuts on after the puller is on and get the drum off. Then you could install new studs.

But it is because it was better or cheaper to eliminate it

Little progress today. Finally got all the new brakes installed on the rear axle. This is a 94 Cherokee diff with the liberty conversion. I need to install lines to the center and then up to the MC but its nice to see it back on 4 wheels. Also needed to be able to move it to safety for some pending tree work

Have you tried fitting the original hubcaps? I'm curious if the OEM clips could be transferred over to use the hubcaps.