Alshere59

http://www.classicautoproducts.com/Visibolts.html They have LED bumper bolts. I do not have them on my car yet but they are on the to do list. $30 a pair

My guess is the filter on the pick up tube in the tank. I would drop it, clean the tank and try again.

I hope the devastation has ended with more storms forecasted. For those injured and homeless I wish you a speedy recovery. A sad day indeed.

I have had success saving tanks in the past but it has always came down to how solid it was at the time. Yours seems solid so you have nothing to loose by cleaning it up and using it IMHO. As far as the liners I haven't used them but have seen a few tanks done that way and it seemed to work fine.

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/links/link/43-1936-to-1948-plymouth-parts-reference-manual/ This link will have it. follow the info and look around page 152. As others have said buy yourself a manual and parts book. It will help.

Why you always have a fire extinguisher.

Vintage power wagons have both. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/links/goto/40-vintage-power-wagons/

Have you considered pulling any rod or main caps to check bearing condition? Also you may want to start it up before you put it in the car. A bit more work but a lot easier to fix any issues. Just throwing it out there. I know Don has a wood stand (?) he made to do just that.

The Datcon part number is 100437 for those interested. It is different in the actual sender portion as it lacks the tabs I mentioned before and the best price I found was about $65. Prices change and other may find a better price in their searches so thought it was worth mentioning.

Not up to speed on trucks but I think your 52 is single wire, it is easy to check to make sure though. Since I just bought single wire sender I thought I would update the info since the JC Whitney model is no longer available. While I didn't have to change out the mounting flange the sender I found does work for the conversion. So after searching I found the universal sender at Tanks Inc can be used for this conversion but cost $35 plus shipping. On a side note I liked this sender the stop tabs for the float arm let me adjust it enough to match my gauge exactly. Full is full and empty is at at about an inch from the bottom so I have some reserve. The float could be set to anywhere I just liked the idea of a reserve. The unit is advertised as 73 ohms not 78 but bending the tab down got me to where it read correctly. (It was just shy of empty before I adjusted it.) You can see the tabs in the picture and the bolt that holds it together same as the old JC unit. Hope this helps. It has a ground connection also but it is a single wire unit. Just thought I would mention it as the pic could be misleading. Al http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/home_id=62/mode=prod/prd276.htm They have the model number of TAN-ORG

If you are running internet explorer this will get you there. Your misspelled words show with a red underline. then right click and select the one you want If you are running something else let me know. http://www.iespell.com/download.php Al

File Name: Vacuum gauge chart File Submitter: Alshere59 File Submitted: 27 Apr 2013 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates A basic chart that gives typical readings for trouble shooting. Click here to download this file

File Name: Vehicle Wiring Schematics covering 1946 to 54 File Submitter: Alshere59 File Submitted: 27 Apr 2013 File Category: Reference Information Schematics are broken out by models. NOTE: 1946 or P 15 does not give wire size, down load the next year for that information. Click here to download this file

The Chevy will be tight on the exhaust, the ford fill tube issues. That is all I know at this point but still working it. PM sent to my pics. You have my email as well.

This is not my creation. Thank forum member Tom Skinner.

Now that is funny I don't care who you are, Also very true so many times. Thanks for the laugh.

Interesting info on the tank. I have the 49 Ford and while I haven't had a lot of time to work on it, I know I have filler neck alignment issues ahead. I have the angled hose coming and a new angled spout is being welded but I did not allow enough for how tight the opening is. I had looked at going with the chevy tank. (Below) The biggest issue I see is it will be hard to route the exhaust with the chevy tank as it is almost exactly 3 inches wider than stock.. Did they by chance mention this model in your conversation? I ask because it looks to accept the fuel sender etc. You are looking at the steel tank but the filler neck will be placed the same. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=352/category_id=113/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd352.htm

Are you testing the unit in or out of the tank? I think out but.... If it is inside the tank. You probably need to shorten the arm to allow it to read the full range of the unit.The instructions that came with it will tell you how to do it. If it is outside the tank. Check the ohms to see if it reads correctly for the sender. New doesn't mean working. If it does you will need to find out what range your gauge needs or get a different one. Adjusting either of them would be difficult at best.

Andy Bernbaum have both. There are probably others as well. You can find them in the links section.

Doug Yes it would be the saddle. That is my concern is its spot welded. I have wired brushed it but can't see one. Granted with my glasses focal range is critical. I need to find some younger eyes I think. I am hoping I can get the brace off inside the trunk as well, its solid but it won't hurt to clean it up and paint. It is directly above the upper saddles. Thanks

The sender has to be rated 78=10 ohms. The order is important unless you can reverse the arm. I am working on my 50 Plymouth tank as we speak. The thread below gives what I researched. I went with the 49 ford. Not sure if the business coup tank is different or not. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/32701-gas-tank-50-plymouth/ Here is the tank mocked up under the car. The chevy tank will be about the same amount forward. The jeep tank will fit but will need the filler worked. Looking back at the profile after getting mine the chevy tank may be a better fit. Check your PM's as well

Anyone have an idea on what holds the upper straps on? I took out the bolt on the end but it seems really stuck. Am I fighting under coating or is there a weld in there I can't find? Just thought I would ask before the big hammer comes out. They are good for the sole at times but not so good for what your hitting.