Desotodav

He sure was an interesting fellow. I don't think that any of his cars were original Daytona's. He supplies cars that look like Daytona's to movie sets. He said that they usually get crashed or burned (or destroyed in some way), but the ones that they destroy are cars made up to look like Daytona's. The rear wings are made from helicopter rotor blades, and he makes the Daytona fronts from steel. I'm not sure how many I counted there - I think that there were at least 9 cars in the garage, 1 in the driveway, and the blue Plymouth in the yard. Here's a few other pics... Desotodav

Great pictures Allan. I'm curious as to what the manual looks like that the photos came out of though as none of my manuals have that sort of detail in the areas you have outlined. Are you able to post a photo of the front cover of your new manual so that I can try to locate one? Desotodav p.s. Thanks for the B1 series wiring details pdf that you posted sometime ago. It was most helpful in the installation of the wiring in my 51 DeSoto truck.

Bryan, I had a mate of mine here in Oz do away with his vent windows. He didn't use his original mechanisms though, and he had glass cut to suit. I recall reading in the Bunn Bible that the Standard Cab for 1948-1950 came out without the vent windows, and the De Luxe Cab and Custom Cab models were fitted with them. I suppose that all you need to find (if you want to use original parts) is a Standard Cab that someone is wrecking and you might be in luck - otherwise I am of the opinion that you may need to look at alternative parts. I found an interesting point raised by Don Bunn when he stated that the reason for the sliding (rather than fixed) bar for the vent windows was to provide the driver with more room in which to make hand signals. The Chrysler Engineers appear to have thought of just about everything when making decisions for vehicles back in those days! Desotodav

Good job Mark (and Ed). What a proud moment! Not only does it look great, it now sounds great too!!! Well done guys, and congratulations. Desotodav

Maybe you need one of these for your jack Tim? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1940-50-Chrysler-Plymouth-Desoto-Dodge-Jack-Tag-Mopar-/260778933533?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb7a2bd1d Desotodav

I was the person asking the questions when I turned up at this fella's place today. Look closer in the garage of the second photo. Yep, he's a Mopar guy! Desotodav

Try typing 'Chrysler mud flaps' Ryan. There are a few listings that come up - but all for late model Chrysler's by the looks of it. Desotodav

Good job on the jack Tim. I am hoping to have one "occupy the space as it did originally and look somewhat presentable" in my truck one day. Although I would imagine that my truck jack would differ somewhat from the car one, or would it? I don't mean to hijack the post Tim, but I have been dying to ask if you (or anyone out there) knows what sort of jack the trucks came out with from the factory, and if they were in any way similar to the car ones? I dropped in on an old mate over the weekend and took some photos of a jack that he said was factory issue for the trucks (see photos). Does anyone have knowledge of this type of jack? it seems to have a 'CDD' decal on it. The only other marking that I could see looked something like '627' on the flip top which my mate told me was a cast number. The jack handle folded in the middle, and had a metal clip configuration which seemed to hold the handle parts together whilst extended. I have played with numerous tucks in recent times. Whilst I have found crank handles in almost each and every one, I have never located an old jack! Unfortunately, my mate still won't sell me this jack but he said that it had brothers and sisters in his shed somewhere! I would appreciate any feedback/comments (or thoughts). Desotodav

I remember an old thread that talked of crank nut sizes Bryan. Here's the Link...http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=24294&highlight=pulley+size I think that most vehicles have a hole in the splash shield for the crank handle. My truck has a hole in the front bumper to accommodate the crank handle - which is different from most of the other trucks that I have seen. The front bumper brackets on my 51 Desoto truck are mounted on top of the chassis to align the holes through to the crankshaft nut. I believe that it would be hard to get a socket onto the crank nut given the limited space provided. A crank handle would probably be the best way to go, but I believe that they are harder to locate over there than here in Oz. Desotodav

Thanks for that Bob. I looked at the same info with great interest a while ago. I'm sure that it will come in handy. I plan to install my radio soon, but have plenty of other things to attend to first. I am hoping to have my truck registered this year by October. The trade plate comes in handy for short trips now though! Thanks again Desotodav

Good job Ryan. The delete plate is a little hard to press out without bending the metal edge around the dash area. I used a small grinding disc in the Dremmel to take the edge off the back of the plate under the dash. I think the job just requires a bit of care. I made a template for the knob holes from an old plastic ice cream container lid. I used a staged drill bit to get the holes to size, I think they ended up about 14mm. I'm yet to mount the radio in the truck, but I think that I have the right place to drill the hole in the firewall now. The right-hand drive factor makes it a little more difficult to install the radio as the pressed out section of the firewall is not present in our trucks (well it is - but on the left hand side). Be sure to let me know how you get on. Desotodav

Louie, I use Classic Fasteners in SA for all of my hard to get stuff. When you get the bolt dimensions that you're chasing, be sure to call Leanne or Derek at Classic Fasteners for the bolts as I'm sure they'd have what you need. Check them out at this link... http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/ Desotodav

Are you talking about this one Ed? Although, they are birds and not monkeys in this one! Desotodav

I just sent you another email Ryan. Have a look at this link re radios too... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=25148&highlight=radio+mount Desotodav

I made a slight modification to my oil bath air filter that would be hard to spot - even for the trained eye. The cost was minimal and the benefits are great. I can simply wash out my foam filter at each service interval now, then re-oil it and put it back into place. I used foam that would not restrict airflow (probably increases it if anything). I also feel that the new foam would have better filtration qualities than the old hair that previously filled the same filter. Desotodav

I had the same problem with my truck Drdialtone and I would say that Mark is on to it. I would imagine that the car steering columns are similar to the truck ones. The steering column shaft should have a bearing pressed into it at the steering wheel end. The cone-shaped spacer fits neatly between the steering shaft and the bearing to eliminate play. There should be a felt washer (dust cover) on top of the spacer. Then there should be a small spring on top of that washer which is compressed by the under-side of the steering wheel to make sure that the cone-shaped spacer stays lodged in place. Hopefully it all makes sense when you look at the photos. I'm not sure where you would be able to get one of these spacers from though. Desotodav

The clamp goes at the front of the muffler. It hangs from a bracket bolted to the chassis. See pictures. Desotodav

Good job on the hangers Mark. You just need to make one of these muffler clamps up now. Desotodav

I found that the older badges differed in size (and weight). I'm not sure where the difference started though. I have a few badges in my possession now for future projects. Our ozzie trucks had the 2 bonnet-mounted emblems, and an additional one mounted just below the tailgate. The last photo was for you Ryan - I'll have a Desoto badge mounted here soon. Desotodav

Welcome to the forum Rox. As Tony said, it's always good to see another ozzie on the site. Good luck with the RTA. I think that they're a little more stringent that Qld Transport up here. Be sure to post some pictures of your truck so that we can see what you're working on. Desotodav 108 Desoto and Dodge trucks

I went stainless with mine Mark. The whole system cost me about $1500. They hand-made me a stainless muffler while they were at it. The guys that I had make up the system specialised in custom race car exhausts. I could have had a steel system made up for a few hundred dollars less, but they suggested that moisture might build up and rust the system out over time if I don't drive the truck too often. At least now I have the peace of mind knowing that I'll probably not need to replace it again in my lifetime. Desotodav

That's a nice looking truck Jaker110. I reckon that you should restore it on the original frame - change is the enemy! You are in the right place for having questions answered - post away! You can avoid the 'fugly' alternator by installing an alternator in a generator case like this one pictured. They are a little pricey though. Desotodav

Dodgebawl, I had one sitting on the bench out the back. I hope this helps... Desotodav

Good luck woodie49. I hope it all works out, then you can move onto your next problem if your luck is anything like mine! Desotodav

Dollydodge, I'm not an electrical genius like some of the other forum members, but could your dull/bright headlight problems stem from a fault in your voltage regulator? My understanding of a voltage regulator is that it is designed to automatically maintain a constant voltage level. Your voltage seems to vary to your headlights given your present situation. Perhaps someone can back me up on this theory? Is the wiring harness that you have pictured the section that commences at the firewall and goes to the rear of the truck? The single black wire in the centre of photo (pointing upwards) appears to be the fuel tank sender wire. If it is that section of wiring, I don't imagine that that section would have any influence on your headlights. Send me a PM with your email details if you wish and I will return email to you with an attached file that I have used for my wire harness. Desotodav