Desotodav

Apologies for the delay Mark. Dimensions of part (truck right door fixed window channel)as requested to follow... I hope this helps you out. Desotodav

Great looking project, but I'll pass too thanks Rob - only room for trucks in my shed/s! I'm always on the lookout for other trucks - mainly for donor parts. I had a look at this interesting 108b van on the weekend (see attached). I figure that a fella can't have too many of these old vehicles, as long as he has a place to store them! Desotodav

Thanks for the tip Ed. I would have thought that the rubber glued to the underside of the lid to let the water escape. I should get to fitting the rubber in tomorrow before I have to run off to work. Then some quick work on a wheel cylinder, and it should be ready for a trip to the Engineer to see how we're travelling for getting the truck registered again after about a 20+ year break in registration fees! Desotodav

My rubber looked the same as in your photo Jim. I have a couple of (short) rubbers here now so I might snip and join them. I'm thinking that the easiest way to glue the rubber to the lid would to be lay the rubber in the channel, put a smear of glue on top, and then close the vent lid down onto the rubber. Good job by VPW for recognising the deficiencies of other suppliers and coming to the party. Thanks for the comments guys. Desotodav

John, I found Allan's wire diagrams most useful when I was wiring up my truck. He has a wire diagram for turn signal switches included. Try this link to the old post http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=10669 and then follow the other links from there for info that should assist you. Desotodav

How do you know when it's time to hang up the keys??? Desotodav

I had just started working on my cowl vent yesterday when I discovered that the seal that I had received from Andy B appeared to be about 2 inches too small. I came to the conclusion that where better a place to conduct my research than this forum - now it all makes sense!!! Is it possible that one of you gents that has managed to get their cowl weatherstrip to fit correctly might offer some suggestion as to the best solution to my problem? If so, can you offer up a photo or two? I am thinking that the weatherstrip (23-61-110) attaches to the underside of the 'lid' (23-61-29) as this process would allow any water that got into the grooved area of the body to reach the drain hole/tube. I believe that filling the grooved body area with the weatherstrip is probably what has caused a lot of vehicles to rust out in this area - so I'd rather get the process right the first time. All suggestions greatly appreciated! Desotodav

Good job Andy...only 16hrs to go!!! Good luck Desotodav

Mark, I think that CAD plating is a good move. I have zinc plated everything that I could inside and out during my rebuilt. I'm hoping that this relatively cheap process will protect the parts a little better from rust down the track. I learned that it is best to remove the spring from the regulator prior to zinc plating the regulators, as the process seems to weaken the spring material causing the spring to break. I left the 23-09-51 channel down at the painter's when I was there the other day. I'll have some measurements for you on it during the week. Take care when re-installing the bottom channel (23-09-52) back onto the glass - they need to go on the right way to allow the retainers (23-39-53) to fit on properly. I got my door windows parts mixed up, so guess which way I put mine back on! The second photo attached shows the wrong way to attach the channel (23-09-52) to the glass! I have since rectified the error. I'm hoping to have my door windows back in the truck this weekend if all goes to plan. Desotodav

Ryan, you might be able to see the one fitted to my 218 in bottom right corner of this photo. I'll drop over to the paddock if I get time this weekend and see what the other 218 engines have on them. Desotodav

Nice job on the truck so far Jason. I had to go 60 thou over on my engine rebuild as well due to an uneven bore. It looks like your truck could almost pass as my truck's big brother! Desotodav

I'm with you on this one Ed. The car transmissions that I have seen are slimmer and longer than the truck ones that I have come across. Desotodav

Glad to hear that the situation worked out alright for your son LAKOTA169. We are fortunate here in Oz that possession of guns is somewhat limited. Although, It would appear that it is not difficult for the wrong type of people to obtain weapons whenever they want to. I perform the majority of my shifts alone on a motorcycle, and have done it that way for at least the last 6 years. Backup is generally not far away for us at any given time, providing that one can get a message to our comms room via our outdated analogue radio channels. I sadly attended the funeral of a work colleague who was recently killed in the line of duty with a firearm at a botched hold-up. These incidents are unfortunately occurring far too often. Whilst I still enjoy my occupation, I pity the parents and loved ones of any serving Officer these days for the wondering if their child or loved one will return home at the end of each shift. My parents have 2 children to worry about. Still, I wouldn't give it up for the world. I like to think that maybe one little thing that I do during my shift will make a difference! We are a close knit family that sticks together in times of need. I am proud at the level of support that my fellow Officer's display when it is required. The 2 photos attached are from the 2 police funerals that I have attended in the last 6 months. Support from the public has been overwhelming of late. It makes one wonder why we need to go through the arbitration court just to have out state premier bring our pay scale up to the level of our neighbouring states. Kind thoughts and warm wishes to your family. Please pass on my regards to your son, and tell him to keep up the good work! Desotodav

Mark, I wasn't sure if you knew what part 23-09-51 looked like so I took some photos for you for dimensions. The 1st and 2nd photos show the part still attached to the inside of the (right side) door. The 3rd photo shows the part removed from the door - the drill holes show the spot welds. The 4th photo shows you the top profile. The 5th (or last) photo shows the bottom profile. Note the little hook like tab inside the channel that stops the bailey channel from sliding out the bottom. I thought that the dimensions might help when you try to fabricate one up. Desotodav

There's nothing wrong with your clock Andy - I thought that it was great anyway! I had to look twice to see what you were talking about. Maybe it was dark in your garage? or maybe I'm just a little slow? It may have even been that cool air south of the border? ...LOL... Good job mate!!! Desotodav

Here's a few photos which might help you out Mark. I believe that yours in the States should be similar to our Oz ones. I had all new wiring made for my headlights. The headlight buckets came out in both steel and aluminium over here. I believe that the aluminium ones were better because they won't rust. Although, the tab slot at the top of the headlight bucket for holding the 'headlight door' (8-34-40) in on the aluminium ones is thin and has often been broken on the lights that I have played with. The aluminium buckets on my 51 truck got a light sand-blast and a good coat of gloss black paint. They are self-earthing, so make sure that you scratch a good earth contact if you intend going down the same track as I did. The 12v ones over here had a different (round) plug to fit the semi-sealed beam lights used. The 6v earlier model ones had the 3 plug 'U' shaped connector - both types are shown in the second photo. I have also found that the mounting springs (8-34-177) used have come in steel and stainless steel. The headlight doors were made in either light gauge stainless steel or cast and then chromed. The adjusting screw (8-34-178) was steel and the nut (8-34-179) was brass. They are a bit fiddly to pull apart and put back together. Take care when re-mounting the springs onto the tabs of the headlight bucket as the spring tabs are only spot-welded and will pull away if too much pull pressure is placed on them. Good luck! Desotodav

Can't help you there Mark as mine is slightly different to your truck! Yours looks like it's coming along well mate. Keep up the good work. Desotodav

Dan, I replaced mine with dual-wired pigtails (about $3 each) and run a clear 6v bulb in them. The centre of my parker light buckets pressed out with a bit of force and the new dual-wired connectors pressed in snugly. You should have no problems obtaining and running 12v orange bulbs in yours. I know that 12v orange bulbs are easy to obtain here in Oz, and would imagine them to be easy to come across where you are. Another option which appears a little pricey, you can get semi-sealed beams from the hot rod shops etc with the indicators integrated into the headlights similar to these http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C11-S2010LED. Desotodav

Bryan, I have seen a few different looking original oil-bath air filters on the trucks that I have 'played' with recently. The one that I chopped for my 51 was the original one from that truck. The top part (with the skirt) remained unchanged, apart from the metal strip that was spot-welded to the inside side-wall to add strength. I'm interested though, how did you get your paper element to fit inside your filter? Did you just get an element with a large enough centre hole to go over the 'trumpet' like cone inside the filter body? Desotodav

Have you got any friends that venture 'down under' Ed? I have a few sets of the rear spring rear suspension mounts in amongst my bits here in Oz, but it would be way too expensive to send them over to you. I sent a couple of the rear mounts for the front springs over to Hank (just in case someone needed some over there) and the weight made it quite pricey. Although, I wonder how a person would go getting on a plane with the mounts in this day and age? Desotodav

Mark, I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a thin cutting disk to cut through mine. I mounted the air filter centre-piece upside down on a flat wooden bench top with a bolt through the centre hole and spun it around around against the angle grinder cutting disk. The angle grinder was levelly mounted on a block at the height at which I needed to cut. I was a little concerned at cutting it free-hand as I thought that I would end up with a crooked cut. Having both items mounted made it easy for me to keep a perfectly straight line. I later had a thin metal strip spot welded to the inside of my filter wall to strengthen it. I now run an oil-soaked foam filter in mine. I'm very happy with the results - that even a trained eye would be hard pressed to spot when it's all together. Good job on you filter Bryan. I agree with Tim, it did look a little nasty in the first photo! Desotodav

Great photos Bob. Thanks for posting. It looks like your Dad is having a ball. I'm fortunate that my Dad is still quite well and only in his early 70's. I took him for a drive in my old truck sometime ago. He had a ball then too. Although, he was quick to point out all of the squeaks and rattles to me! I'll have my old truck finished soon and will be taking my parents and family for many more drives. I wish good health to your father and your family. Good on your mate Tom for helping make the day a memorable event. That's what friendship is all about. Desotodav

I like them bone stock. I like to experience them just how they were made back in yesteryear. Change is the enemy - but to each his (or her) own! It has to be a MOPAR though. Desotodav

Ryan, I was fortunate to have my 'L' shaped fuzzy bits sent over from the States by Richards47deluxe (thanks again Richard). As far as I found, you can't buy the material here in Oz. Richard ordered it for me from Andy B - Bernbaum part # is: A-381 Vent division bar ‘L’ shaped fuzzy $15 per pair. The only catch is that you need to send them a $50 minimum order before they'll ship it to you in Oz. I don't suppose that I'll be needing my spare set that Richard sent me for a while. Send me an email and I'll sort something out for you. I've attached a couple of photos of one of my windows and channels to date, which I'd be interested your thoughts on Dollydodge and Sams50b2d. I've had a look at the numerous doors that I have in the paddock and it would appear that the division bars in my doors do not have the fuzzy material on the back inside edge. I have made my division bars up with the fuzzy stuff on the sides only. Would the lack of fuzzy bit at the back of the division bar allow for the window to move more freely? I don't believe that the outer edge of the slide bar should make contact with the back of the division bar while it slides up and down. I hope that all makes sense! I found that the felt material (dust cover strip?) attached to the inside of the door sills was held on by 3 small clips per piece. I'm not sure that our trucks were put together the same on this side of the world though. I spoke with Hank recently and he mentioned the "small oblong rubber parts that go into the sill". Are these the parts marked 23-08-40 on the diagram from the manual? I'm not sure of the purpose of these 'bumper's' or even if they are required. I haven't located them in any of the doors that I have here. I'd appreciate some feedback from anybody who is in the know as I believe that I am almost ready to install the door windows now. Desotodav

I've had to remove my drive shaft on numerous occasions throughout my rebuild, and have always removed it from the front first. You should find that there is enough play in the front yoke to slide it back far enough on the tail shaft to slip off the studs attached to the hand brake drum - it only needs to slide about 1/2 inch. You may need to clean some gunk off the tail shaft before the yoke will slide though. I hope the attached picture helps. You should find an arrow etched into the yoke (16-14-1) and also the tail shaft tube (16-02-1) which indicates where the two should align - be sure to get that right when you install the tail shaft again. Desotodav