Ivan_B

Not at all. Been there, recently, when I just got my car... ?

Good So, what have you found-out thus far, the pilot light bulb is wrong? How about if you remove both pilots, does it make a difference?

Our condolences for your loss. Does the car still have an original engine in it? Would it run of you gravity feed the carburetor? When was the last time the car was on the road? Some pictures are always welcome ?

Sorry, but not exactly ? On the provided diagram, once you turn on the left turn signal, the left rear bulb is completely disconnected from the brake circuit (at the same time) so if the bulb has a bad ground it just wont work, in this case. But you are going into the right direction. This is exactly why we've asked that you check if the problem is still there with one of the bulbs removed. The fact that it is - indicates that the other bulb is not involved in the process.

That looks like the OEM system, like what Tired iron has, doesn't it? I think OUTFXD is using some kind of aftermarket setup. The above diagram is using only the brake circuit, on the back. So you either have the light bulb connected through the brake switch (steady light if the pedal is down) or to the flasher if the switch is activated to either position. Nothing is done to the ground, the bulbs are always grounded to the body where the lamp bracket is. A very elegant and simple system, actually. I had to use 4 relays in my "custom" setup because I did not have this type of switch\wiring and did not want to use the aftermarket ones or mess-up the factory harness ?

I could probably used some spares myself, what kind of radio did you have in there? Was that a Philco? What model number? Before hording some good things it would at least make sense to make sure they are compatible with my unit

May I suggest using some oil undercoating on the inside while the interior is still out? Also, did you save the radio parts? These might still be useful for repairs of the OEM units.

You are right, and Los might actually be onto something. After all, after being in electrician school, he probably has more formal training than many of us, here ? It could be that one side is feeding\grounding through the other. However, the TS stated that talking the bulbs out appears to have no effect and that all the lights appear to be working, besides this little problem with the turn signals. Could be a faulty switch, he might have to take a look at it, eventually, if other simpler troubleshooting proves fruitless.

Do you have a picture? If that's just dirt, it might be a better idea to clean it with some organic solvents (carb cleaner, gas, engine de-greaser), rather than using an acidic solution such as vinegar (technically, not good for the metal). Is your turn signal switch the same as Tired iron's, posted above? In this case, we might also do some troubleshooting at the switch side (jumping wires) to test the after-the-switch circuit. A multi-meter is very useful for tracing wires. You will mainly use the continuity/diod setting. The one that beeps when both leads are connected.

That could actually be source of the problem, depending upon the wiring. Those can be sitting parallel to the actual bulbs and if you've got a wrong combination of bulbs, "strange" things might happen. Are both of your pilot bulbs the same specs? What if you remove both of them, for testing? You should be able to fix the original bulb socket (unless, of course, it is destroyed), if that is, indeed the issue. It is probably grounding to body (so a bad ground due to rust is a likely culprit).

I think that was meant for me, since I managed to type it 3 times right 2 times wrong in my previous message... Well, it's Friday, I am sorry ?

Were you the one who dropped out of the electrician school? ? A bad ground light socket usually does not work. If we are talking about brake light with the regular dual filament bulb, there are two power wires going to it (parking light, brake light) and a single ground going out (to the body). There are not many things that can go wrong, really. Wiring is not hard, really. You just need a little patience to look at the schematic (if you have one) and remember the main 3 rules: 1) you usually need + and - connected to make things work and if it doesn't, you probably have 2) no connection where there should be one, or 3) a connection where there should not be any Based just on that, it make sense that if you disconnect the brake wire you have no brake lights. If the signals work correctly, however, it means that you are getting your signal going into the wrong bulb through the brake circuit, which does not make sense. What if you remove one of the bulbs, would the other still flash with the signal switch in both positions?

Were the lights operating properly in the past? Did you make any changes such as new bulbs etc.? It is somewhat hard to guess what's going on without seeing your wiring. Do you have a multimeter to trace the wires from the switch down the road? I don't think there is a short, otherwise you would fry things and usually notice that right away. Could be that the switch is faulty, or something is not connected quite right. Check the rear bulbs, specifically the turning light circuit. Left and Right wires should go their separate way, and might be connected to the same side bulbs on the front, then probably the switch or the flasher.

Was the car re-wired using the OEM diagram, or not? Are there just new wires or a completely new wiring scheme as well? Do you have the factory diagram available?

No pictures? ? So we are just expected to take the gentleman's word for it? ?

If you are going into the joints, etc., just remove, disassemble, and clean them properly

Use a tiny wire brush (the ones made for dremels) to clean it, laying on a flat surface. It will be good as new

Actually, the U.S. is rather one of the more civilized places when it comes to road safety. So, don't worry, it can get much worse ?

Can't you make that contact (going to the bulb) disassembled some more and get a new wire in there?

Sure, and most of the crashes (if I recall correctly) are caused by the human factor, not the equipment. I am far away from the aviation industry, so maybe this was a bad example. Going back to cars, however, there are plenty of court cases (after people got injured or died), thought the years, revealing that manufacturers sometimes know about certain deadly defects in their products, etc., but choose to ignore the problems for cost-saving purposes. It's true that airplanes are probably a bit more regulated, though I was just making a point that cost reduction is a very important factor in mass production.

I've had, but I know nothing about the quality of workmanship and the materials used so it is unknown what was the cause. I would probably advise against mimicking the mass manufacturing, mainly because their main priority is cost reduction, as much as possible. Same goes with all new inventions, unfortunately. I suspect that many new techniques and materials get a bad reputation not because of their inherent qualities but because they allow greater cost reduction (poorer product quality, but still functional). If a plane goes down, now and then, its not a big deal unless a) they can be proven to be at fault b) the risk and magnitude of consequences outweigh the savings, and c) they do not have other safeguards in place, such as regularly requiring to replace all these parts anyway.

This is correct. This reminds me of some 70-years old wires in a residential building, copper, tied together. There was a good ~2 inches of contact between them. This is exactly what the tube testing video demonstrated. Although, I suppose for a more applicable testing, they should've passed some high current through the wires and measured the resistance/voltage drop/heat, etc. Just curious, are there any disadvantages of LED lights, besides the cost? ?

She was referring to her freshly lacquered nails... ? This is clearly an Off-topic thread, by the way.

Not sure about a Woodie, but the regular door handle (we are talking about the front arm rests, I assume) is attached by two machine screws, one on each side. Should be visible from below. Some of them you can even twist up and remove, no need to take the screws out. Do you have a picture of your handle, from the bottom?

Sure. And, of course, using a car that does not need re-wiring is even more convenient Okay, I actually did a brief research on these, they do solder. Appear to be not as strong when compared to the normal soldering, though: Of course, you would not expect that kind of force to be applied to your wires in the car... However, this could be the conservative talk\type, but are these really more convenient in comparison to the regular soldered joints? Are they only available for straight crimps? What about t-splices, and all kinds of other weird configurations? What about different terminal connections? What about not frying the rest of the harness while working with the heat gun in a tight space? Also, if you are re-doing or repairing the OEM harness, this would not really look appropriate with the transparent insulation etc. This would be my greater concern Exciting new technology? Sure, but is it really useful at home? I don't know. How difficult is it to use the soldering gun? ?