Ivan_B

I also had a leaking float, when I got the car. Dipping it into boiling water lets you know where the hole is 😉

This is probably the worst distributor I ever saw 😳 It must've been in some really humid environment. Do you also have the vacuum advance on that thing? If so, it is probably also shot. I am still in process of fixing my own 😅

I wrote an elaborate response to this, but then decided not to post it. Enough has been said already. They weren't If anything, the tolerances are probably tighter in modern vehicles and sealants are often recommended to be used by the OEM, these days, because fitting the pieces without them is either impossible or impractical. For lack of better analogy, the windshield on new cars is held by a sealant... 😅 Of course, they were not available back in the days so all sorts of machinery was likely more prone to being not perfectly sealed. That's true. I watched a documentary where a 50-s engine factory was mixing all sorts of additives into the engine block iron in attempts to improve its properties against cracking, warping, internal tension... Very interesting process for a lay person

Heat is useful when bending metals, in general... Do we have engineers, here? Assuming that we do not have heat-sensitive parts, inside, would it be of any benefit to bake the entire assembled carb to do "stress" relief? Or would that be a waste of time since it is constantly going through heat cycles with the engine?

I respectfully disagree with the above statement, as it appears to, somehow, attribute the use of sealants to a poorer workmanship standards and inferior service

Permatex #2 (as the gasket dressing) works just as well 😆 I do not believe that the engine head is a good analogy, here, since it experiences quite different working conditions in comparison to those endured by your average carburetor or thermostat housing. Sure, you can attempt to get perfectly straight/matching surfaces, or you can use some sealant with the same results. I am certainly not attempting to discourage anyone from having well-fitted engine parts, just offering some alternatives 😅

Congrats! 😀 The car looks great from far away. We need more pictures. There are plenty of hard-to find parts, but the repro-ones will be as expensive as the scarce OEM stuff.

I don't know, never had issues with a little sealant on the gaskets. Just use the non-hardening one, so that you can remove it, later on. Wipe the surfaces with alcohol, before re-applying. No mess, good effect. I guess, I just do not take my carbs apart, very often 🙂

So the tip is to sand down the cap and bowl on a level base? Depending upon the magnitude of the observed curvature, compressing the cap edges between two metal plates in a vise could also be a solution. This is mostly useful for reducing large gaps. For the small ones, on the contrary, using some gas-resistant sealant allows compensating for the uneven "landscape" without mechanical alterations 😉

Correction. I just looked under my own hood, after a cold start, and it was blowing smoke/steam as well... Starting the engine when warm, after some driving, produced no such effect. So this is either normal, or we've both got bad piston rings 😆

Forget about the ammeter, go take a look at it before it's gone. You'll haul it with a trailer anyway. Check the important things liker condition of the body (underneath), brakes, wheel bearings, kingpins, control arms, and steering mechanism.

I take it that no one know how the amp gauge is supposed to work? 😆 In the video, it is showing a constant 0. That means that there is no current going either way through the meter. This could mean that the car battery is fully charged, that the meter ain't working, or it is not connected properly. Either way, that should not be a concern for me while looking at it.

Okay, then, there shouldn't be any issues with maintenance. For some reason, I was under impression that you are in a different situation, like many other folks The 51 looks very promising. Appears to be an older repaint. Likely, just needs the standard maintenance (mostly everything 😁) and a couple of gauges repaired. For $6500 I would take it right away, unless you have cars in better condition available. I assume that the little is in hand, and the engine number matches the frame and the body? 😀 Also, if you have not already done so, take a good look underneath the car, to make sure that there are no surprises.

Yes, dielectric grease and washers (they are black, these days) 😁

A couple of pics of both cars (like ~50, each) would be nice for a brief evaluation Also, if you are not comfortable fixing either one of them yourself, for what ever has to be done to make them fit your operating needs, don't do it. There is a high likelihood that it will be another disaster. I bought my 1940 for $10k, it is in very good condition, but still needed some work to be a good driver. And it still needs plenty of work (like new brake lines, a whole bunch of rubber parts, etc.) in general. And I am not planning to drive it to work daily, either.

According to the OP, the new seal he used is CR 20525

But... Hear me out... What, just what, if the forum is Canadian? 😉

If you have the zerk on the pump - yes, this is the regular maintenance item.

No idea, sorry. I just hope that spinning the engine without running (and with no compression) might help you identify it better. Could be the generator or the water pump (hopefully). I would probably stop driving the car until this is resolved. A bit of smoke\steam from the breather pipe and vented oil cap is ok, but I've never seen it literally blow like that. I first thought that you had an exhaust leak, until you've mentioned that it's the breather. 😮 I never ran the car in really cold weather, though, so maybe that is normal under the given ambient conditions. Let's wait for some of the northerners to chime in on that. Sniper's point about the cold weather is correct. However, most of the cold-running issues are usually resolved as soon as the car warms-up, unless it is something really weird and not readily affected by the under the hood temperature 🤔

Watched the video, a few comments: 1. your carb does not look rebuilt. It must be clean as new, there should be no leaks, no fuel stains on it, etc. I would recommend taking it off, and re-sealing all gaskets with some Permatex #2. If you have not already done so, check the float level and the operation of the accelerator pump too. 2. test the engine with a vacuum gauge 3. does your breather pipe smoke when the outside temp is warm as well? Does it start smoking right after a cold start? That could be a huge blow-by, which could also indicate why your oil pressure gets a bit low at times. My 201 shows a steady gauge regardless of the engine speed. 4. check dwell and ignition timing, also, it was already mentioned bout the points spring incorrectly installed... 5. please fix all your gauges 6. the radio would need new caps 7. nice houses in your area! Later: 8. you need to troubleshoot that chirping noise, that is concerning. Take the plugs out, disconnect the coil, and spin the engine to check if it's there...

If you sell stuff, it is generally understood that you are expected to report it as part of your income, just as you would do with your regular W2s (for the working folks). Even if its cash. 😉

Google tells me it's the fuzzy window molding\seal where the glass sits.

The manual throttle cable is great, just like a gas tank dipstick 😉

Probably not for long... Also, there are plenty of those that would not turn-over anymore 😅

These are some good anecdotes 😉