Dansk

I knew a guy that worked in a pinball parts place. They rewind coils for the solenoids on those. Maybe you could find a coil rewind service?

Most paintless dent places will not work on older cars, the metal is too thick for their techniques. At least that is what I was told at me local place.

I always wondered why the guy with a car has to pay to get in but the spectator is free. Not always, but a lot of times.

A great write up, thank you. I'm missing one point, you say that adding .002" to the specification does not work, so what specification are you setting the valves to? Is it trial and error?

Wondering if anyone has suggestions on how to remove a breather/ oil fill tube without damaging it? I'm assuming it is a press fit??? This is on a 251 straight 6. thank you.

One of Keiths video's just saved me today. I was trying to remove my manifolds with the engine in the car and they wouldn't budge. His top end video showed that there is an additional bolt in the center accessed from underneath and you cannot see it from the top.

It can't be cost, what other reasons make you want to make the change?

ok, I had a closer look...likely not a tool at all because it is solid copper. The oxidation made it look like steel. I'm guessing some sort of buss bar.

This metal bar was wrapped in paper and was in the trunk along with a service manual on my '51 Windsor. Any ideas on what it is?

That's the tool I use and it works great. I just did a whole car using it on steel lines.

I made the Rusty Hope kit work but cannot recommend it. Fortunately I have full access to a machine shop and plenty of patience. I don't doubt that his "kits" may work for some applications but not for mine.

I wonder how much of a difference in power is gained by doing this modification?

Is it adequate to just set the valves .002" over when cold (i.e. 0.010" intake and 0.012"exhaust)?

As someone who tests shipping packaging as part of my job, I second the plastic wrap then spray foam method along with a heavy duty box or crate.

I'll be interested to follow your progress with the '49. It is very similar to my project '51 Windsor. I'm also not doing paint on this one.

Thank you for posting Adam. It's difficult to see just what you did from the photo. If you have any more detail, please post it.

I don't doubt that they could be different. Looks like I will have to do some more customization on Mr. Akers "kit". Its been an experience for sure.

I'm using the exact parts that Rusty Hope specified; Calipers are NAPA 4622/43 from 82-93 Camaro Hoses are NAPA 36959 from 79-85 Buick Riviera or Cadillac Eldorado What pics I could find of your hoses look the same as what I have here from NAPA. Have you looked at your hose when you are fully turned to the left?

That's how I started and all's well until you go to a full turn and then there is a heck of a kink in the hose as your caliper comes very close to the upright.

Since my brake conversion is Rusty Hope, I'm adding this question onto this thread. My issue is with the brake hose routing from the caliper to the frame. The only way I could see to go was in front of the kingpin. This seems ok yet the hose then travels accross that surface as you turn and at a full turn, the rotor touches the hose. I could probably tie the hose off with a tiewrap to avoid the rotor but wanted to check here first. then there is the question of the slight rubbing of the hose against the suspension as seen in photo 1. These are photo's of the passenger side.

Just curious, do these brakes really function as an emergency brake or are they really just a parking brake. It doesn't look like enough surface area to stop a car very quickly and would put a lot of strain on the driveshaft universals.

I just completed a rusty hope disc brake conversion on my 51 Windsor Deluxe. I made it work with advice from Charlie. I think that any install on these cars will have issues, here were my challenges. 1) His brackets come as bare metal, be prepared to paint them for corrosion protection. 2) I drilled and tapped my spindles on the car, if I were to do it again, I would have removed them and done it on a Bridgeport or drill press but it did work the way I did it. 3) The spacer he supplied was incorrect for my spindles and allowed the rotor inner face to contact the spindle. I had to fabricate additional shims to gain clearance (0.050"). One of the bolts he supplied was too long and protruded through the spindle to the rotor. I made thick washers to correct it. 4) He specified to buy banjo bolts yet they also came with the calipers he specified so it was money wasted. 5) the dust caps he specified did not fit the rotors he specified. I had to buy Dodge Diplomat caps that were correct and even then, I had to trim 0.100" off because they contacted the outer bearing race before they seated against the rotor hub.

""during that same time frame I was going to a local oval track in Malta NY "" Hi Mike, I grew up in Burnt Hills and also used to go to Malta in the mid/late 70's. We learned real quick not to sit on the third turn, you could taste the dirt in the air!

Not a kit but there is information on the langdonsstovebolt website.

Ahhh! now I understand your solution.(and Joe's) Good idea!