1941Rick

We were on a break at Howe Sound Secondary when the news came to us...

I am running my 6 volt heater on 12 volts....do not use high speed....wonder how long it will last.....good thing I only use the car in the early spring and summer....do not have a great need for the heater......

If it runs as good as it looks you have a winner

96% saved by mopar and failed with willys

This is what I did when i switched to 12v.....put on a 12v coil with external ballast.

Here is an article from an Imperial site...... Purpose of Ballast Resistors from Brooks: When the engine is running, you can get by fine with a lot less current at the points. That's the purpose of the ballast resistor. If the points were to receive full battery current/voltage at all times, they would only last a few hundred miles before needing replacement. At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow thru the ballast resistor, preserving the points. So that's its purpose....for those curious. And I know I'm kinda mixing volts/amps in the above....which isn't fair....but you get the idea. Addition from Bob: Let's be clear that there is no separate wire on the early models. The points get the current directly through the ballast. In order to provide the full 12 volts during a cold start, the ballast is also cold and has nil resistance. As the ballast heats up (some of them get VERY hot!) the resistance gradually climbs up to 1.5 th 1.9 ohms thus reducing current to the points.

You are going to make a rat rod out of it......

Usually when decelerating and smoking indicates worn valve guides...wore rings will smoke under power.....as a rule...but then what are rules for....

The voltage will drop after the ballast heats up...gives a full 12 volt to aid starting then warms up....

One other thing I noticed is the rear bumper is mounted upside down vs the car....beautiful vehicle..

Did mine 2 years ago.....Changed all bulbs ( a given), change turn signal flasher, for the fuel gauge I put in series a small light bulb....this stopped the rapid movement of the gauge. gauge works accuratly. The heater motor is still 6 volt and I only run it on low speed. Changed vacume wipers to electric 12 volt. If you were pos ground you will have to swap the wires on the amp gauge. you will have to do something with the radio if you have one... For the alternator all you have to do is hook the "BAT" wire from the generator voltage regulator to the "POS" on the alternator. It is not a big deal to convert....I also added a fusable link in my system...... Good luck

I changed the relay to a 12v bosch style relay and that was all....run the 6 volt sol. on 12 volts no problem after 2 years

Here in British Columbia you can not have any part of the car lower than the rim...so you would have to run 22s on it with real skinny tires....but then who would like to drive a car like that.....

You have to use a flasher built for LEDs....

have given thought to V8in my 41...hard to walk away from such a dependable flatty with overdrive....I would go with a mopar set-up...If I were to use a Ford it would be a 5lt with 5 speed.....

Dice are a stay.....adds something to the car...all of mine have had them and it drives my wiffey nuts....need more dice....

Had a situation arise where a fellow in Saskatchewan wanted my truck and camper..55thou....only viewed Kijiji add.....wanted to pay with Paypal.....told him cash is always best...he insisted on Paypal and that it was safe....I called Paypal and the word from them was that this guy is a fraud. If he knows the system he could put the money inbto his paypal account then transfer it to me..I get notified and transfer the money to my bank account..simple,,ya right....he then gets the transaction reversed and Paypal then dings my credit card and there is nothing I can do but use the money I transfered to my back to pay the credit card off...Just a quick not Olddaddy not all canadians are dishonest..there are frauds everywhere and it is a shame you have been stiffed..

Left, right, clockwise and counter clockwise for auto's and machinery is always viewed from the operators seat....Don is correct polarity is not an issue for a starter and it will rotate in the opposite direction of the flywheel......

I have gone around with ESSO regarding oil for the old flatties....They have Mobile 1 15/50 full synthetic,that is used in high performance engines that has the proper additives for our engines.....I run mine with it with no problems at all....Just make sure your engine is a fresh rebuild, not a high miler

I have been there a couple of times as well to the big one in Portland....Lots of stuff for chev and ford, not much for our cars...but it is a good trip with the guys....won't be there this year as I just came back from Barrett Jackson

Well here is my 41 P12......can be sold.....

Because it is a pain to put the dipstick back into the hole someone might have tapped the hole in the block. Then found out that the tube has to have a slight bend in it and you can not thread it into the block.....does that sound like experience talking?

I am on my way to Vegas to see if I can score one there.....preferably a 3100 small window....My favourite for sure.....good for you...

Interesting......Vancouver to Anchorage in my 41....worth thinking about.....afterall I live a short drive to Vancouver......Know the route very well......some of the road descriptions are wrong...Pavement all the way from Vancouver to Meziadin Junction....unless of course there is a detour near Pemberton to Quesnel, along the Fraser River....

Agree with Don......heavy oil will mask a problem if there is one... I run Mobile One 15 / 50 synthetic in a fresh rebuild. Runs fine...