1941Rick

I just removed the oem drive shaft and replaced it with a modern u-joint shaft...so much smoother now.....anyone looking for a good oem driveshaft?

Looks like it is CAT powered. Interesting it is on a Cutlass chasis.

STAY away from starter fluid....if you want to do ring damage this will do it....dry's out the cylinder walls and pre-ignites. Any job site I went to the first thing I did was get rid of this stuff. Put gas down the carb...

Use a single wire 40 - 60 amp alternator....fab a bracket to mount it.Change all the bulbs to 12 volt. If you have electric wipers upgrade to 12 volt. I changed my P12 over to 12 volt last year. I did not change the heater motor, just run it on low and medium speed. Overdrive sol is still 6 volt. The gas gauge has a light bulb in the BAT side of the gauge. this slows down the reaction of the gauge. You can get devices to drop the voltage, but this was a simple cheap way. Remove the regulator from the generator circuit and run the BAT wire to the alternator. Have you switched polarity yet? If not reverse the wires on the AMP meter.

I have found that you should replace the whole thing......Quite often the inside of the sheath is gummed up and or damaged....afterall it is not a very expensive part....

here's the info from esso http://www.imperialoil.com/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENPVLMOMobil_1_15W-50.pdf

Just had a conversation with an Esso engineer and he recommends Mobile 1 15w 50.... Has the additives required for the flat heads...... also said to stay away from oils with a number on them of GF-3 and GF-4....

I have just over a 1000 miles on the engine....Running 30 w non-det oil.....been reading up on it and opinion is detergent oil is ok for low milage engines.....

I brought my 41 P12 out of hibernation yesterday. Parked it in the garage at home. Now the better half is complaining about the smell coming from the car. As far as I can tell it is an odor from the engine. Could it be the non-detergent oil? ( freshly changed ). What are the feelings about running a detergent oil in a fresh flattie? Say a 10/ 30 or 15/40.

I found on my car the rubber valve stem is not tight in the hole in the rim....with tube type tires the hole is oblonged....the tubeless stem will be loose.....if the tire man see this he will have to take care when filling the tire.....

2000 rpm....OD.....3.9 gears...58 MPH......perfect

I would doubt new tappets alone will cure the ticking noise. It could be a combination of cam and tappets, as they will wear together....can you isolate if it is all or some that are noisy? How is the timing chain? There will always be some valve noise as they are solid lifters.....maybe turn up the radio

I put dual carbs on last year and do get better fuel economy....040 off the head and whatever that did to the compression. Car drives so much better at bottom end...

Check to see if it is pinched.....sounds like lack of fuel....

You pull the floor pan and it is right there. A bolt on the arm of the pedal.

What gear ratio in the rear-end?

To any forum members who are in the path of all that nasty weather........stay safe

The 201 will be taxed to the hilt when starting out....your clutch will burn out quickly.... Like Tod said 3.91 or 4.10 would be best, especially if you are mostly driving city traffic. I have the 3.91 in my 41 with a fresh 218 and it is great in town. Highway driving is helped with O/D. My books indicate the car came with 4.10 gears. Also said you do not have to use first to start out un less you are starting on a grade.....

Good carb to learn on.....just lay everything out on the table and put it back where it came from.

shaved the head, boiled the block in a caustic tank, ground the crankshaft....500.00 I feel ripped..

On my 41 the park lites come on with the first detent and go off when the headlights are on....they are also the signal light

Looking at my drawings I see the oil coming from the pump to a common oil gallery. the relief valve then controls the max pressure in the engine. when excess pressure is sensed the valve opens and dumps the oil back to the base. The bypass filter takes oil from the oil gallery and returns the oil back to the base behind the relief valve. Increasing the spring tension will only have an effect on Max pressure. If you have low pressure you may have a faulty (leaking) relief valve, a stuck open relief valve, a weak oil pump, or a bearing problem furthur along the engine. As for making a full flow system on the engine , I have read where modifications are made right at the oil pump. The base where the pump mounts is drilled and oil is diverted thru a full flow filter before entering the engine. On these engines I feel the by-pass is sufficient.

Now you are going to have to buy some rear tires...all that new found power will have to go somewhere............

Each to his own.....I would not have one and would not buy a car with one......

The social aspect is why I go....6 of us went down....always find like minded people who like to swap tales....and you never know what you might find.....next time I take a pocket full of cash...some awesome car buy's............and you get to see how spoiled the Chevy and Ford guys are. Just rained on us Saturday morning ( at the Expo Center )