plyroadking

There was a '25 gold bug at the grant quam auction in Boone IA. I found it interesting that where a glove box was normally placed it had a fuse panel very prominently labeled. I guess they had electrical issues?

That's what scares me about Iowa's law about yom, if it's 25 years old or older slap on some yom plates and throw the current state issued plates under the seat. If you get tired of that plate number slap on another yom set. Find another number yom you like better. ...... absolutely no link between me and the plates I display. I keep multiple copies of the vehicle code in my vehicles as most officers don't believe it either.

My '40 does the same thing occasionally, the 1st and Rev lift mechanism starts to back out of its threaded hole in the shaft. I usually just tighten it back up. I have circled what comes loose

I called before I dug, turns out they have pretty much no idea where the stuff is either. There best guess is 18" in either direction of their paint marks. I sunk 8 4ft deep post holes very tentatively right on their paint marks, didn't hit the power line till I was 4ft away from their nearest mark.....

If you search ebay for 1370462 you should find a couple. I find them hard to come by and also to be a common item that is non-functional on the ods I find and rebuild.

I normally like to stay close to stock, but front disc brakes is something I should have done 10 years ago to my 1940 Plymouth. I kept my stock master and tried it without adding any residual valves and I don't think I will. It has great pedal and I can't stomp the pedal beyond 2/3 of the way down.

The 39 chrysler engine sitting in my shed has the 11/16" bolts. I'll unbury it in the spring and do the compression check for you.

Nate, I believe that is what you turn to adjust the camber. The spindle should clamp on it so you don't have to torque it.

I had the same one on my '40 before it was wrecked last year, I still can't believe we never got in trouble with it at college. Have you considered adding a wolf whistle to your armament?

My grandfathers od did something similar several years ago, I believe it had something to do with the pawl, and it broke the solenoid shaft. I've got spares for just about every part in the transmission and overdrive unit if you need parts.

Can you upload a picture of the wiring diagram that you used? It would help me understand how it is wired and figure a way to test it. When the relay clicks you should hear the solenoid thunk also. It could be a bad solenoid or the pawl jamming up, or maybe the incorrect pawl lockout rod?

Another instance of my smart phone failing to keep up it's end of the bargain....

Is there a potential that your speedometer drive gear was changed at some point? It's been my experience that a single tooth difference adds or subtracts around 7-10 mph to the speedometer. I've never checked the odometer to see if my speedometer was out of calibration I'm sure someone here can give the factory specs for drive gears and calibration. I always seem to 17 and 18 tooth gears, I'd like to find a 15 tooth as my speedometer currently reads 9ish mph slow with a 16 tooth.

Never bothered, nobody these days knows what a positive shift starter pedal is....

Since we're talking Buicks... here's my "barn gift" it was in a neighbor's barn and he finally said I could have it after 20 years of asking.

I happen to have a complete set out of a 52 I recently parted out.

I like having them separated, classifieds section and question section. Head over to the AACA forum and see how annoying it is when they are combined, and then you get these people that want a ridiculous amount of money for an item and nobody is interested so they keep btt-ing the post so it stays recent. They even though there is a separate buy/sell section but only some use it.

I've got several of the cam bolts that anchor one end of the brake shoe and has a cam with an arrow on it to adjust the shoe. If your talking about the wear adjusters I believe that you will have to change the backing plates as mine were assembled and welded on to the plates

Don't want to hijack a truck thread but I came across a two barrel intake on a 55 dodge cornet, it was factory with a stromberg model ww carb. I bolted up a holley electric choke and fabricated a throttle cable to replace the mismatch in linkages. I need to adjust the choke some more as it runs great when it's cold but sputters a little on a hard acceleration when it's warmed up. I assume the butterfly shaft is a little worn and creating a vacuum leak. Overall I'm pretty happy with it and can tell the difference between it and the single barrel

Is the relay side of the lockout switch going to ground after getting up to speed? Sometimes they fill up with oil and don't pass the ground signal on to the relay. Easiest way to trouble shoot is to run a ground wire to the governor terminal on the lockout switch, turn the ignition on but don't start the car, push the od cable in and listen for the relay and solenoid to click, cycling the ign switch should provide you with it clicking in and out with the cable pushed in. Do not roll the car around with the governor bypassed like this! If this solves your issue then it is either a bad lockout switch or your governor is not going to ground when your at speeds of more than 25ish mph.

There is a fellow by the name of Lloyd that will trade you an R7 that will bolt onto your 41 for your R6

I'm currently running that setup in my 1940 Plymouth two door, 230, R10, and a 3.73 rear, but with a 55 dodge two barrel carb/intake rather than your neat setup. From my experience, this is how mine was, it may not be correct or accurate, I didn't read books/manuals, just took what I had and made them work together. It was a pretty straightforward conversion, as someone stated the 230 crank is a little longer. I took a grinder and ground the inside of my bell housing where the flywheel/pressure plate rubbed. It is important to use your original bell housing as the starter location was moved around and your clutch linkage interferes with starter on the later bell housings. I found a 55 230 and the ring gear teeth count matched the count on the blown 201 that was in my car. Some 230s do not have a hole in the end of the crank for the pilot bushing, that can probably be added but a 230 flywheel has 6 bolts rather than the 4 on the 201. My 55 block had an oil pan with the sump in the middle, it would not clear the front cross member and I had to reuse my 1940 oil pan. The 55 head was intended for a smaller temperature sending unit and the bulb for my 40 gauge wouldn't fit, I drilled and tapped the head to accommodate the 1940 sender. The thermostat housing on the 55 didn't have the bypass port and I reused my 40 housing and water pump. The 230 distributor is specific to the 230 and the shaft is releaved for the longer stroke, plus the number of degrees it advances are different. The R10 overdrive bolted in and I was able to run the original 1940 driveshaft, there was a little linkage adjustment using the adjustments provided on the original 1940 linkage. My original speedometer cable was long enough to reuse. My 1940 has 10 spline axle shafts that are longer than other years, the 3.73 I found had 10 splines and the third member bolted right into the housing. Don't know what year/make it came out of. I have a 3.56 out of a 55 dodge and it has 16 spline but will still bolt into the 1940 housing. Hopefully this helps, Andy

Jerry is correct, somehow the fluid would leave the od section and collect in the trans section. Maybe has something to do with the od section not having its own vent to the atmosphere. As everything expands when it gets hot the fluid works through to the vented trannys case. His theory was to let the fluid return to the od case with the hose, but it probably just used the hose as an air vent rater than pressurizing the od case and forcing the fluid to the trans case

I had a friend that had the same problem, the person that put it together did not remove the gasket material that blocks the galley between the center case and rear case. He ran a rubber hose from the front fill plug to the rear fill plug to get by until I had time to pull it and replace the gaskethe for him.

doesn't matter how much start up protection you have when you run down the road and lock it up because you left all your oil on the garage floor. granted routine checks of a device that indicates the amount of oil remaining in the pan and maintaining it at the proper level may provide differing results.