plyroadking

The switches are common, spacing is something you probably want to check before you install the trans in the car. If it threads into far it can jam up the shift rod, not far enough and it wont make the switch. A piece of gasket material is not enough spacing and a washer is too much. EBay has several under $20 that look like they come with an original crush washer

I found that mid 80`s chevy full size pickup truck pins and bushings are the same size. The pins had to be cut as they were too long.

And i must have been putting mine on incorrectly these last ten years, i use the pictured nuts/brass washers on my exhaust manifolds!

Thats pretty cool if you like making brackets, i usually just pull the plug and screw my backup light switch in the factory location.

If i recall correctly 1940 had a unique piston length, 99% of the rebuild kits for 1940 have the wrong piston and you have to use your old one over again. I have a couple spares i can measure for you this weekend

Sacramento Vintage Ford, but don't tell them its for a Plymouth, their wire "only works on Fords"

Date stamp should be on the circled surface, with that input shaft it came out of a fluid drive car

Sorry to get you excited, it turned out to be a 1941.

I believe there is one sitting in a friend's yard, I'll see about running over this weekend and checking it out.

Hold my beer, watch this....

I usually just run straight 30w. My brother used to run 5w-something in his '49, leaked out almost as fast as he could pour it in, finally ran it out of oil and seized the engine. Your experience may vary.

Thats a pretty sweet rig!

The governor is just a switch that goes to electrical ground somewhere after 25-30 mph, when you slow down past 25-30 mph the centrifugal force can no longer overcome the governors spring and it opens the circuit to ground, this opens the relay circuitry and disengages the solenoid allowing you to freewheel until the spragg clutch catches when the driveshaft rpms match the engines. I prefer to run a wire from a grounded toggle switch to the governor's terminal on the lockout switch, others run it to the relay but i worry about accidental bumping the switch when the overdrive cable is pulled out. This switch allows you to decide how soon the overdrive can engage or how long it stays engaged, you can turn on the switch at whatever speed you want under 25-30 mph and it will engage, after that speed its moot as the governor has already closed the circuit. If your going down a hill and od keeps dropping out you can hit the toggle switch and override the governor trying to disengage the od. I also use the switch a lot when I'm testing the overdrives i rebuild.

If you install a simple toggle switch to override the governor you can compression brake with an overdrive all the way to stalling it out.

I ran into a similar issue when i put the '55 engine and od trans in my 1940. I ended up using a later carburetor bottom 2/3s and putting my top piece on it to keep the manual choke cable mount. I just took it off my car to try out a '55 dodge two barrel carb and intake manifold. I will look for a number on the old carb but im pretty sure the number was on the top horn i took off.

I've ran into a few unmentioned issues with my front disk conversion. The big issue now is that the recommend front brake hoses are too short to reach when the car is jacked up, aside from that the recommend hoses are 3/16 thread and my car is 7/16-24, i just ordered more hoses and an adapter to make them work on the car. The second issue i had was with all the grinding you have to do to make the rotor clear the spindle, aaj sends a sleeve that increases the inner bearing seat and seal diameter. After installing the kit it looks to me that he could have spaced the adapter out to move the whole hub assembly out a 1/4 of an inch to avoid the grinding of the spindle. There are spacers that are included that move the caliper bracket in, if the bearing adapter was spaced out and the caliper bracket spaces were not as thick everything could be moved out enough to avoid trimming you spindles down. But that's just my beer fueled opinion.

There is/was a factory dual setup for the 25 inch block in a wreaking yard in Napa CA, I've talked with the owner over the years and he has come down to $2,500 for the intake/exhaust manifolds, carbs, air cleaners, and linkage. I still think i'd be better off looking for my own dump truck with the parts.

I had a shop in Sacramento build it 8 years ago, i googled build driveshaft texas and several places popped up that build them.

Here's how mine was done, i believe it was also around $400

I don't know if its out of the question for you, but some of the best money i spent on the car was for a shop to build a new modern style drive shaft for my '40. ended the vibrations and clunking, 75k miles later and never had to do anything but grease it, plus when the u joints wear out i can get a new set with my happy meal at McDonald's.

Looks engineered to me!

Where's the yard? I've been looking for the driver's side door mirror for my 55

I was very impressed with improvement in the ride from adding Ford aerostar progressive rate coil springs to my 40. The car doesn't wallow anymore and it returned the stance to more of a factory height.

Is there a possibility of getting a picture of their mounting brackets for the visor? I've been considering one myself

I'm interested in parts off the car but it's too far to drive