pflaming

Today I received my body mounts from Roberts. I misread their prices to wit: $9.00 per mount times 20 = $180.00. The price is $9.00 per set of two or $9.00 X 10 = $90.00. Since I had misquoted I felt a correction was needed.

I'm very close to a drivable chassis.

The tractors and other engine powered machines had magnitoes, so the crank was a way of life. I've cranked many a farm engine. Those cranks were permanently mounted.

Take "artistic " pictures of an area of your shop. Remember "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" therefore there is no definable criteria .

My engine is now in as well. Rear brakes on Monday.

Installed this today also. I had parts from several engines. It took a while to find the correct pieces. They looked the same, but were not. Tricky.

The unpainted sway bar is now on. I need the end connectors and rubber bushings. Gotta do something every day.

I had the start button near the driver door like the late 40's Plymouth's do, but it was too temping, as you note, so I moved it to center dash.

I believe that I removed an anti sway bar from my '53. I have two on the floor but cannot figure out how to mount one. Anyone have a good picture?

Plymouthy is right, yet if things are in good repair, then the engine will start on the first revolution. That is how my truck starts, I don't even have to get in the cab. I replaced the stomp starter with a solenoid and a button/ignition key start. The quick start really impresses onlookers it also saves wear on the battery and starter. I still have my six volt starter, the new wiring is 12 volt.

http://p15-d24.com/uploads/monthly_2018_05/1539750354_shot201.jpg.7a710b0477a144fe4a30eba2fd42f1de.jpg note that the trunk lid appears to be clam style similar to older station wagons. It may have been marketed as part utility / part family. Ford coupe?

Where do you go?

Posts on the need for a strong battery always interest me because these engines were designed to start with ONE pull of a HAND CRANK. So then, any battery that will turn the engine one revolution will start that engine if it is tuned properly. If drivers in the 40's and early 50's stalled out when on the road with a bad battery, the hand crank got them started and on the way. To prove this, I'm going to put a crank gear on my Suburban drive shaft, buy a crank, and when I show my Suburban to a surfer, I will start the engine with the crank to prove to him that a bad battery will not leave him stranded on some remote beach.

Shop called me, radiator is ready. Went to pick it up and was told, there is nothing wrong, they did a bath check for air leaks under pressure. The cost to me, ZERO MONEY! FREE. Now that IS rare!

If the car was for me, it would go in!!! But to sell, very few know what an overdrive is let alone how to use it, so to put it in is to throw away some good $$$ and the possibility the buyer messes it up and calls me for help. A standard three on the tree is vertically indestructible. I'm not even going to put in my floor shifter for the same reason. But I will place a quality repair manual in the glove box.

Bucket seats were wrong color. Question, today is details, should one put loc tight on the universal joint connection to the tranny. Or should they be torqued?

My radiator shop called yesterday that mine has been repaired this too is an old time shop, lots of 60's cars there all the time. Cost: $65.00. Seems fair.

TKS, I have a nephew who writes programs. Will see him in four weeks.

If tne birds come place very small nails in line and the will not land OR train a cat to sleep up there! LOL

Seat research is ongoing. This morning I attached the transmission to the engine and then set that combo into the frame. It's starting to get exciting.

Yesterday I installed manifolds. That bottom bolt nut is very difficult to start back on .

Once I call my build "completed" , I'm aware builds are seldom "completed" yet when I decide to end a thread, is there a way to transfer or save it in such a manner so that a copy of its entirety can be edited and then printed out?

Re: headrests, they are removable, owners choice. This morning, manifolds, that bottom center nut is a challenge, especially with semi numb fingertips, carpel tunnel results.

I really shouldn't be quite so open, but this thread is meant to document the good and the questionable that occurs along the way. So, seats: there is a pair of two tone gray bucket seats here in town. I'm going to look at them but find a nice pair. For the rear seats, my seats are intact, so I'm going to carefully remove the covers for patterns, then buy matching material and cover them myself. That approach will be inexpensive and will harmonize with my repurposing approach for the car. Then the next owner can do as he wishes. I will keep the 60/40 split front seat frame and include it with the sale. These suburbans are very popular with the surfer culture, which is only two and a half hours away, so I'm not too concerned about selling. Photo is what I'll be looking at.

I visited an upholstery shop this morning. To redo the buckets with new matching covers on the rear seats, $1,800.00. To recover the rear seats to match the buckets, $800.00. Those are possibly realistic prices. A new full upholstery cost probably equals a full exterior paint finish.