NiftyFifty

Condolences to his family and friends both close and on here...

I took mine off a 96, but others have said they found some to be different then mine...but I think it all depended on model, and sometimes where it was built. Mine looks like the pic I attached, but if your going to run the Rusty front disc kit, make sure you take the proportioning valve too....if your going to continue with all drums, you will need a residual valve for the rear brakes, too make sure they don't leak, and a adjustable proportioning valve

You need to build a small plate that mounts to the stock holes, and then gives the new master 2 new mounting studs, or I think some have just drilled holes and bolted it through...best is to do a forum search...the one under my username is the process I did, with pictures. You also need to make up new line ends likely, or possibly extend yours...I started my whole system from scratch, so it was different for me

The dual reservoir master that a lot of us use from the Cherokees work great, but do require some modifications, but IMO well worth it over the stock one.

Ya, I got 4 of those load resistors at Back to the 50's last year...didn't work very well at all for some reason, so I gave up and hid real bulbs under the hood and in the frame rails. With just the resistors it would flash slow, and sometimes just stay on, or sometimes one side would work, and then not...but it could just be the quality of those ones I got from 50's

Are you running turn signals? I had a few issues trying to get mine to blink, as not enough load for the flasher...even with an LED flasher, it wouldn't draw enough to flash...but I'm also front and back LED, if I had regular rears, I likely wouldn't have had an issue. Looks good to me, nothing beats good working headlights

I can appreciate originality, but when I think of the issues with finding the even rarer parts for these trucks, compared to a 1/2 ton and the fact in its stock state that it's likely a 40/45 mph tops highway vehicle, and the roughness of the ride, I can't imagine the investment without creating a useable and productive vehicle. Some guys may want a $20,000 short miler, but I guess I'm not that well off...If I build a coe, it's going to be built as a modern chassis hauler that can take one of my other toys down the road as far as I need it to go, that or a camper conversion....but again...it's all in your tastes and budget, but pretty rare that you can even build a stock, no paint roller for under $10,000

Rare truck in my neck of the woods, but that said, I passed up a running one last year for $2600, so that price is pretty high for what that truck needs. For me, I can't imagine anything but a complete frame swap to a newer Dodge big truck frame, with a diesel, so all I value is the body...id say $1000 is a fair number for the truck..but not much more

I've run nothing but straight weight oil in my rebuild, other then the first 100 miles I ran a high zddp break in oil. The industrial motors all ran straight weight for their lives, and with 40 I have great oil pressure when hot, and I never notice any valve train noise....even after it sits for the winter. If you don't use it in winter or cold temps, you will never hurt a thing.

I put a thermostat in last year...ran 4 years before without, and no issues..but after the rebuild in 14/15 the engine showed it was running too hot for my liking...ended up being the new gauge was out because of a missing resistor...so I wouldn't be overly concerned. If you do, I recommend drilling two 1/8 or 1/4 " holes in it as a bypass...I put a brand new t-stat in after my engine rebuild, and it stuck closed and cooked my headgasket..that's when I went to no thermostat.

I was referring to going from 3/4 to a 1/2 ton axle...not the other way around...the OP wasn't really clear about what he was doing. I also believe the 1/2 tons had other rear diff options then 4:10 no?

Faster to swap the whole front axle, then it is to swap spindles...I would take the springs as well and swap at the shackles...they you get the lighter springs if there was a difference in 3/4 to 1/2 front springs. Swapping the rear axle is a big benefit again...and same thing..a few less or lighter springs in the rear axle on the 1/2 ton.

If there are plans for the front disc brakes, then the 1/2 ton axle is the only one that works with the parts list.

"Stuck" is sometimes the operative word....there have been many great and bad creations out of all auto companies...Ill use whatever ones from whomever that can solve or fix a problem, or make things better. Too each their own, but I'll get out of a jam with a Ford part any day of the week, then to let pride be my judge

Whoa!!! let's be careful....some of us quite enjoy their Ford rims and power leather seats

Are you on the site on an iPhone or iPad in mobile view?

Should fit just fine, I did 50 to 51 and that does require quite a bit more work and parts swap

My 67 Monaco is the same, have to lock the doors from inside, or with the key, if you close with the lock down, it just pops open. Good accessory if you ask me.

Yes, my psgr door locks as well from inside, when you lift the handle. That's why I only bought one locking outside door handle

55 may be different...but on a 49 you shouldn't have to remove much

I used outdoor silicone and then I sprayed everything in the cab corners with rust converting primer, then rubberized coating. My first go around I used dum dum caulk, and it worked well, but it never dries, so paint will crack around it

If it's just rust, you can actually mix 1 part molasses to 8 parts water and soak and it will dissolve rust, but it's not a super quick process...likely take about a week. My buddy that build hot rods does this with all his old A and T parts that he can fit in his container...amazing how they come out. Beyond that, you need something chemical to dissolve the rust and build-up

Plymouth got it.....but on a serious note...that's darn near impossible with the stock gauge, as there isn't even power too that gauge until the dash switch is pulled, and being mechanical, it should be able to move without the speedo gear moving in the trans. Only thing I can think of is if you have a aftermarket radio or speaker near by that is magnetizing the gauge on start and pulling the needle up....all I can think of

Something isn't right, you should be able to remove that without any issues with the lines and heater. Any chance of a picture of what your looking at?

You can remove multiple springs, but only every second...so not the bottom, but the next one, and so on. I've taken a pile out of mine, but it was also a 1 ton with about 10+ leaves on both sides.