NiftyFifty

I adjusted my pedals when I did my rebuild, but I also pulled every floor board and cleaned up and rubber guarded, then put foam rubber between the boards that bolt together...helped a lot with all the floor noise and my massive amount of insulation on the floor fills the gap and keeps the pedal arms fairly straight and quiet...best investment yet on the truck

With enough money and time, you can make anything happen...but to go from the green boxless truck, to the white...deep deep pockets are a necessity LOL

Sounds like first it is a lack of fuel to the pick-up if you did a good job cleaning, only thing that makes sense if it only happens on a uphill pull. Did you clean the carb out as well as the lines again? The bowl of the carb will amazing hold a lot of junk, but sounds more like it before the needle and seat too me.

I've had about 115/120 sleds and stripped well over 1/2, but I'm getting out of the sled parts game...wittled down my pile to fit in one trailer now, and trying to move.

Yep, the one thing I really wait for all winter is the vintage snowmobile runs, and we get melting weather Andrea the grass showing up in February...that's why I'm starting work on my truck now, rather then later in spring

20-50 would be great, but not readily available here, and when you do find it it's a pretty big premium...being in farm country here, it's easier to find straight weights or. 15w40

Straight 30 is fine, I run it all the time, but it is getting harder to find non detergent 30 weight, but if you don't care then just run over to coop and they have all you could ever need. Unfortunately I'm suffering a pretty good rear main leak, so I run straight weight in whatever I find cheapest, but a trip to Bottineau answers that...it can leak till I get it on a hoist, not doing that job on my back

I read different builders on the HAMB and other sites and guys were quite happy with the small boosts of the 2bl and I'm not looking to build a monster, already have that in the rest of my build. Not to mention, I'm not dropping another $250+ US for a seperate twin single intake, when I can just add my exhaust and a different carb and have everything I need. As for Fred's usual backhanded comments, I've done more work then he has and I also own a dual quad offenhauser for my 383, so I know all I need to about dual linkages and what somebody else wants isn't what I'm after for MY truck. I think sometimes some on here like to interject too much of their opinion (nobody specific) about things that aren't being discussed when the real topic gets washed over. i appreciate the info on the Webber, but I have crossed that off the list, too much money and not great reviews from two people I respect very much here at home. If anyone is running the Empi I appreciate any feedback, it's still a possibility depending on price. I should mention I'm also looking at Langdons mini hei distributor as apart of this change, so I'm going to be deep into the costs already...I would consider Pertronix, but I feel my dist is too worn out and it's not even a vacuum advance style.

Another gem post.......maybe do some reading, it seems to be working quite well for others that have done the swap, thus the reason Langdons sells the kit. I don't want the hassle of two or three single barrel carbs, and I never asked for opinions on if I should do it....I specifically asked about Empi carbs. Not hearing much love for the Webber from my buddy running them on his VW, so it's either the Empi or the Ford carb now...just waiting on local pricing on the Empi compared to Langdons.

Ouch, that Weber is almost double the Empi...and to me would be a $520 + shipping cost....I think I may look at some local rebuilt options and check out my other buddy that runs a VW store

Buddy recommended going to a Ford 2bl so may consider that as he has one, and is a pro at rebuilding...but it will all come down to how hard it it to build a custom base..the Empi base is cheap from Langdon

Just a quick ask, how many members are running the Empi 32/36 carb that Langdon's sells for the 2bbl upgrade for the flatheads? I'm getting exh headers built, and want to go to a 2 barrel on the stock intake, but don't want to order if it's not a good working carb. thanks guys

I was in your spot, although I decided to just use all grade 8 bolts for head bolts the first time...head gasket didn't last more then a few hundred miles...they had no stretch and just became loose with a few heat cycles....only use real head bolts, and remember to retorque after a few cycles

Lots of 251/265 engines were used in the Massey Harris combines up here, and possibly other makes, and is actually where my 251 came from. Also had a 218 from a combine, but it was stuck so I scrapped it. The intake under the red starter is kind of interesting, looks like a updraft carb on a downdraft intake, that or apparently you can mount the manifold either way and it fits. I had a couple of those, but sent them for scrap, didn't think I had much use for them.

Your correct Dave....going too far forward does get into that area, the front mount is riveted directly to the front crossmember. I think raising the engine is possible, but only about an inch room to work with...best scenario is to cut and build a gap into the crossmember like shown in the thread.

It's gotta be 40 years + old easily I'd say, and ya I forgot about your location....Wal-Mart sells it for like $4.00/bottle in the U.S.

Get the engine warmed up, and control the throttle under the hood and pour some MMO right down the carb...not gulps, just dribble it down to make the engine run rich and it will burn out a lot of the old carbon and help losen anything sticking up...be sure to do this outside where it can vent. I do always run some in the oil too, seems to quiet the lifters a bit IMO. Sounds like your off to a good start, don't be scared to drain the oil very soon into running it as well, all sorts of sludge can come loose after a few heat cycles.

100% agree...if the block in the picture was what I had to work with, and the 265 block was in better shape, all it takes is a phone call to get the initial info

Offer $300 and take a chance...265 is a great start to a build

If your going to go to all the work to rebuild, a bore is 99% of the time a must, or you can suffer oil burning and power loss once warmed up, and in a big truck like that, you need all the help you can get likely. It's a bit more money in labour, but the parts are identical in price, and a bored engine is more of a gurantee. I didn't bore my block because it cleaned up so well, but in reality I was about .005 to .006 over the tolerances for stock parts, and I notice a but of oil burning off the hop on mine, and that was the only step I skipped, every other parts was machined and changed....but hind site is 20/20 and if I could go back I would....although if I could go right to the start....Id be driving a Dakota with a PH body on it

Dodgeb4 said it perfectly, and I don't have to spend every day building engines to know that once you thin out the walls they can't dissipate heat as well as a thicker wall, and the more strain you put on the engine not built for those tolerances, the more you lose reliability. I see this reoccurring reference to "some members", so if a quality build and taking the more reliable route is the less experienced, then count me in that crowd. And as per matter of fact lots of people will tell you those engines were prone to heating issues and head gasket issues, and this comes from people that worked on them new in the dealership...like my uncle who was a Chrysler mechanic for years.

If you have a local spring shop, most of them can just make you new U bolts, that's what I had done when I swapped in mine from a 91 YJ, and they had the spring perches in stock too, and I don't love by a metropolis by any means...more like a 2 horse town.

Going .80 over and beyond is just asking for trouble, the more you cut away the cyl walls, the more your going to have heating issues and I would assume at some point your going to have even more headgasket issues then the rest of us. It's not like the blocks are scarce, try and find a clean or non seized 251/65 and start your build from there. The machining costs alone on yours look like they warrant a new block to start with. Just because someone else did it, doesn't mean it's recommended...hence the story everyone's parents told us of the kid jumping off the bridge

Not all T5's will fit the trucks either tho, so you have to find the ones with the correct shifter location, or your going to lose your bench seat and seat support. I believe all the mustang and Camaro/Firebird had the rear shifter, so they won't work, sadly as some of those were the beefier of the trans. IMO the T5 is a great choice, no hunting for them, still parts out there, and the kit makes it easy to install.

It's not a real hard job, but Welding is absolutely necessary to weld on the new spring perches, you will very likely need to add a piece of line to plumb in the new distribution block, and as far as I know 1/2 tons don't(??) need to modify the driveshaft, but 3/4 and up I know you do. should be lots of topics on this subject with a forum search, not sure anyone laid it out in step by step or not though