NiftyFifty

Ya, be interested to see and hear how yours works, I had to leave mine fairly loose underneath just so I can't get the handle to start moving and get a bit of pull before I run out of steam...if I was to do it over again, I would put a true lever style in

Yep...I ran hot hot water and a pressure washer through mine for about an hour when it was all disassembled, but at that time didn't know about the distribution tube...when I took it for dunking and machining they said it still had a couple mouse nests and piles of junk in it...only way to go is a good dunking. As for over size...hopefully doesn't need much more...once you go over .060 I think they just don't cool as nicely

I think Plymouth has a good idea of using the donor firewall section, even if you just take enough to mount it to your original firewall and brace things up for the added pressures. Are you planning a swap to another powertrain where you lose the originals?

You started the thread with toting the A833 and the "eat your heart out T5ers" why should I not be able to apply credible info the the thread, it wasn't a lie, and their quite talented and knowledgable people that I conferred with...I think your a little touchy and thus I'm not going to bother posting in your threads, you don't seem to be able to take any criticism or objective opinion. You posted numerous times your engine was having issues, I asked a question....I'll know not to bother with that moving forward.

When I talked to two guys that are transmission guys for a living, they had nothing good to say about the A833, but I hope it work out for you...being behind low hp it will likely be fine, I think it was the V8's that were likely killing them. I thought your engine was weak, and had plans to rebuild?

I've made a pile of adjustments on my ebrake, but it never pulls the cable as far as it needs too, to do much more then stop the truck on flat ground..definitely would not be a "emergency" brake. I made a new cable that goes from the original cable mount to the back, then a factory splitter to both cables on my jeep axle..it pulls a fe inches, but still needs more. One thing that helps is to push hard on the brakes when applying the brake, but still not like a lever or foot pedal brake

Yep, a Don beat me...either a small engine valve tool, or like I did, I sliced the bottom plate off a big C clamp and welded a set of fingers that pulled the spring up, but let me take the keepers out...was a quick fix as I tried multiple tools from buddies and none worked

Yes, that fire is devestating and don't look past how good it is for these guys to get away from the "thinking" about it. Hope the tear down goes good, and don't forget to pull the water distribution tube behind the water pump...always all sorts of junk in there

Ya, I had never used this front grill section before, and it did not want to line up like the original 50 grill, even though one front fender was off the 51 as well...that welting hides some of the difference. I used dum dum caulk the first time, and although it filled the spot, it was a constant sore spot and on a super warm day, would start to move. All my dents aren't out either...but that's the poor light in my shop and the even worse body man working on it

Why not get some of the Roberts fender welting? It at least fills the gaps and does hide imperfections, and although not correct to the original, doesn't look too bad once assembled.

Look good on there, always nice to repurpose something and make it work!

You seem to be lacking a windshield...lol...not sure mirror glass would be my first ride quality concern, but any glass shop can do both for ya

Well I wished I had time to work on the truck, not that it needs much now..spent most of spring correcting all the issues of last year, and pretty much checked everything off. I'm so swamped right now getting our house and yard ready for sale, that all my other toys are taking a back seat..but I have logged about 500 miles on the truck since mid-April

Yes, I had a 750lb stand...it was sagging pretty bad under the fully assembled old flathead, thankfully I had a 1250lb as well to hold the new engine as I compared and swapped what I needed...even the cherry picker didn't appreciate lifting that engine out with the arm stretched out

I have 3 screwed to my wall, one wouldn't even make a good bench unless it needed a place to let grain fall through I took my original seat from and seat and bolted two aluminum rims to the ends and some feet and made a bench...sadly it's even less comfortable then when it was in the truck, so it's now yard art, until we move...then it may be wrecker art...so if someone in or around Manitoba needs a very good seat frame and complete bench (needs reupholstered) it's free to take!

Rock auto can get you the correct gasket, but look for a Fargo with a 251 or 265, that ensures you get the 25" head gasket and you need the internal bypass gasket, which I can get you a number as well. The prices up here for rebuild parts are ridiculous compared to the US. Maher I built my engine, I gave ample chances for local suppliers, but at 40-50% higher costs, I went south for parts, northern Auto Parts was a good option for pistons and valves etc, and the gasket set I got through I think Summit or someone back in the day, but my last sets were purchased from RockAuto, and they had the best price. I'll get you a number later, I have it saved in my folder in the shop for the correct head gasket with the "bump" on the head

Not using enough heat is bad too..poor penetration means weak welds...I've taken stuff apart welded by others that literally just need a small hammer tap..sometime important structural welds. I would never claim to be anything but a backyard dabbler, but I've always worked hard to make sure what I stick together, stays that way. My father was a welder for many years including high pressure, and ran a welding shop on a military base up here, so I had a pretty good teacher...although he never did much mig or any tig..he was a true pro at the old fashioned oxy welding sheet metal.

Biggest mistakes I made when I was learning mig on sheet metal was tacking one edge on a patch panel then welding away and not taking the middle and opposite edge before I did...better be ready for some big gaps when you do it the wrong way. I did some real bad work even on this go round, thatnI had to go back and repair..but a dirty regulator was giving me argon issues and causing bad welds. I would rather do 100 small welds, then burn through on one clean line...so I move around a lot and sometimes use a chunk of old copper as a heat sink if I can.

This forum doesn't allow for the kind of language I need to use on installing my power windows in my truck, but I blame the regulators I bought that didn't have much adjustment, but I corrected that this spring, and my glass move smooth and fast now...my issue was my door panel was a bit pushed in on one door, and the channel I built warped when I welded it, and I never noticed...kept cracking windows...I broke 4 or 5 to be exact..test fit the wood and it would work great, get the window in..work good...come back in 2 days and window cracked...just flexing them too much, but I learned (hard way) and corrected the issues...now I couldn't imagine being without them, especially since I would have to lean over my centre console now to try and manually roll the psgr down

If they stop me at the border I'll tell them it's my spare You don't come up for Devils Lake show in ND ever do you? Sorry to get off topic. If you need Fargone I can always measure my tank and let you know what fit in mine...holds a fair amount of fuel, at least 50+ litres

Completely different tank and filler neck style on the 55, it would be as much or more mod to use it I imagine, and the tank fitting is near the bottom front on the 48-53

I went power windows, and I wanted a full size window for the look I was going after...a lot of things shaved on my truck. To go vent you would need to weld brackets into the doors for the windows to mount on...those I cut off and hit the trash

Yes I do...and sadly for its size, yes shipping would be more then it's worth likely. I always wondered how it would fit the later trucks, I think the brackets would be different, but that's an easy fix on the truck side, and leave the tank alone. If I was doing Back to the 50's I could get it close, but we're in the midst of painting to list our house, and hopefully move, so a lot of car shows are on hold now

If the vented and non-vented regulators were the same I'd give you a set for free, I'm never using them again.

I tried two tanks at the rad shop here, both were so full of rot and small holes, they had nothing to work with. Strangely I have a 47 Fargo tank that I took out of a parts truck and it was in very good shape, but the truck was way worse a mess them my 50/51...maybe material quality changed in the new model.